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TR2/3/3A Transmission Removal

jfarris

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I think the answer to this question is obvious, but I'll ask anyway.
I am about to remove the TR4 A OD transmission from my 56 TR3. I've read the procedure from all the usual sources. Once the transmission is out, I need to move the car across the garage on a set of "skates" for storage until I get the replacement transmission in a couple of weeks. I am assuming that I still need to support the rear of the engine versus let it hang on the motor mounts while moving the car. I plan to build a cradle that will sit upon a small furniture dolly so that everything will roll together. What am I missing? Who else has done this successfully - how did you do it?
OK - second question: with the drive shaft unbolted from the tranny, it will only move backwards on the splines about 2.5". Is this enough for the tranny to clear when I pull it backwards?
Thanks, in advance, for any help!
 

tdskip

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Hi Jim. Good idea to support the engine but I've r&r transmissions without doing that for short time periods without issues, if she is going to sit then by all means.

If the driveshaft is out of the way why can't you pull it up and out?
 

Brinkerhoff

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I'd be blocking the engine under the pan , until you can fab a cradle for it. You don't want to do any secondary damage by letting it hang. I think the driveshaft needs to be removed.
 

JerryVV

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You might have difficulty getting it all to move together. Here is another idea. Place a block of wood behind the head and gently lower the engine against the firewall. Might take a 2 x 4 about 6 inches long.
 

mallard

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No problem with the drive shaft, just disconnect from the trans and push it back. It's easier to reinstall the trans if you remove the transmission mount. I just did this because the new rear oil gallery plug was leaking and driving me nuts.
 
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jfarris

jfarris

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Thanks for the ideas and hints, I like the 2X4 idea. I remembered the tranny input splines and tip being farther into the clutch and pilot bearing than the 2.5" that I have in front of the drive shaft. I didn't want to get the thing started out and have to stop and remove the DS. I'll give it a try in the next couple of days.
Thanks!
 

GTP1960

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Jim,
Just curious, (if you don't mind):
what type is the replacement transmission?
and what's the story on the old 4A OD?

good luck with the project; I would like to hear how it turns out.

Guy
 
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jfarris

jfarris

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Guy,
I am replacing a TR4 A OD with another just like it. I'm getting a freshly rebuilt unit from Brad Orndorff in Orange Beach FL.
The old one became intermittent. After checking the electrics, cleaning the bottom screen, and checking the valve, I decided it must be the pump not working properly. I had no way of checking the pressure. It needed second and third gear synchros anyway, so I decided to replace it with a rebuilt unit. I haven't taken the old one out yet, but trade for the new one on the 19th.
I'll let everyone know how the swap goes, especially the 2X4 brace idea. plus, I need to post some pictures and formally introduce myself at some point.
 

Marvin Gruber

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Jim,
when I put that trans in I used floor jack to hold engine up. I have done the 2x4 trick in the past when I needed to move a car around without a trans. DS will move back plenty to remove trans. Suggest you have heavy cardboard on floorboard to help slide trans out and in. The o/d trans is a lot heavier than std trans so have some help. I did it by myself but not again.

marv
 

mallard

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Jim don't know if you've dealt with Brad in the past, I had two O/D trans rebuilt buy him with great results. No-way connected with him but I like to give a good recommendation when it's warranted.

Keith
 

sp53

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The exhaust will hold the engine some and usually needs to be undone to get the angle correct on re-installation. I would not recommend having the exhaust hold the motor, but it will stiffen the engine drop. I have never done what you are planning, but if I did, I would try a piece of high density plywood( that is the expensive stuff with more ply’s and less gaps/ air pockets in the material)l, and then cut that to fit between the frame shelves that lip on the bottom of the frame. In theory it looks like if the engine were lifted up a little the plywood could slide in and fit up against the flywheel and rear seal area to hold the motor, and for insurance I would put that piece mentioned earlier at the battery box.
 

Marvin Gruber

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Talked to Brad this morning. Sent him two shifter covers. He has build a couple of over drives for me as well. We have been trading parts for over 15 years, no problems.

marv
 
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jfarris

jfarris

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Everything is unbolted and ready for my friend to help wiggle the tranny out tomorrow morning (Tuesday 12/16). I've read that it is easier to get out the passenger's side - the hand brake handle is still there, does it need to be removed? Is it really easier out that side? I took the four bolts out of the rear crossmember, then also removed the two big ones bolting the tranny to the crossmember. I thought it might help to be able to separate those pieces as the tranny came out. Your thoughts?
Looks like my son will be here to help put it back in (his mystery Christmas present to me :cool:).
Thanks for the help!
 

mallard

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I would remove the handbrake and take it out the pass side, otherwise you have to deal with the steering wheel. Putting it back in from the pass side is also easier because the clutch lever could get hung up on the lip on the floor board.
 

sail

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This worked well for me with a hole for the drain plug:

Jack.jpg
 
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jfarris

jfarris

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Thanks guys. Richard, that looks like some of the precision tools I've engineered and built in the past!
 

Marvin Gruber

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Jim,
i didn't remove handbrake but that won't hurt to do. As I mentioned eariler, I used cardboard on each side floorboard to let the trans side around on it and then drag it out on it.

Marv
 

titanic

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A piece of plywood cut to fit the floor pan saves wear&tear on the floor. Also, removing the steering wheel reduces the contortions of working in that area.
Berry
 
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