Trafficator Head Tube Problem

[RAC68]

Hi All,

Very recently I have been noticing that the trafficator on my BJ8P1 moves a little when turning the steering wheel. After removing the steering wheel to investigate, I noticed the disk secured by the wheel set screws has some initial resistance when turned. I also observed that the tube itself (the short head tube that interfaces with the stator tube) is slightly out of line and shows definite stress cracking.

How is this tube connected to the head unit and disk and can it be replaced?

Thanks and all the best,
Ray (64BJ8P1)

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Ray

The tube has a slot in it the control head slips down into. They are pretty problematic about breaking. Allowing the control head to turn. The tube goes the entire length of the steering column and comes out the steering box. There's a brass ferrel nut that holds the tube in place. Also your sign light wiring is inside the tube as well. TO remove, first undo the wiring at the steering box. Then loosen the little set screws at the steering wheel and pull the control head out, Wires and all. To take the tube out, remove the ferrel nut on the steering box and gently tap the tube back into the box, that should give you enough tube to grab it inside the steering wheel. You may can shorten this job by just removing the ferrel nut and pull tube, with control out at same time. Don't forget the set screws. Conv top has to be down to do this. If I have forgotten any thing, hopefully the guys here will chime in.

 

[Keoke]

You may can shorten this job If you drain the steering box first.

First undo the connectors from the steering box wires located up under the Bonnet Lock pin assy.

Loosen the four screws on the bottom end plate of the box while holding a catch pan under the bottom edge of the box.

Now just remove the Ferrel nut and pull the stator tube, with control head out.
Don't forget the set screws.

Conv top has to be down to do this. If I have forgotten any thing, hopefully the guys here will chime in.

 

[RAC68]

Marvin/Keoke,

Thanks for your reply.

My problem is NOT the Stator Tube but the tube attached to the head that fits into the stator tube. The tube I am referring to is physically attached to the head unit to keep the trafficator stationary when turning the steering wheel. The flat disk that is fixed by the steering wheel can be seen at the base of the tube.

I would like to understand if and how I can repair or replace this tube as it is fractured and will soon brake off. Presently, the steering wheel disk has resistance when initially turning the wheel and causes the trafficator to move initially in the direction of the turn.

I am looking for how the trafficator tube (sorry but I am not sure what to call it) is attached to the trafficator unit and if I can replace or repair a fractured tube.

Thanks again and all the best,
Ray (64BJ8P1)

 

[Keoke]

Repairing a fractured tube is most easily done using a "TIG" welder. On E Bay you may find just that part in good shape.--Keoke

 

[RAC68]

Hi Keoke,

What is that part called and how is it attached to the head unit?

Thanks
Ray

 

[Keoke]

Well Ray, Interesting enough it was not a replaceable part and did not have a Name or separate part Number.

I can only guess it was welded to the disk under the one visible in your picture.----Fwiw--Keoke

 

[Duane_Rhynard]

Ray,

Curt Arndt rebuilds trafficators, give him a call. I’m sure he could repair it for you or tell you how. I know he also has hard to find trafficator replacement parts. I have purchased from him and he is excellent.

Curt Arndt
3215 Via Cajita
Carlsbad, CA 92010-1394
(760) 458-1926 cell
cnaarndt@gmail.com

Good Luck,

Duane
‘58 BN6

 

[Keoke]

Good show Duane------Keoke-- :thumbsup:

 

[Randy Forbes]

Just listed: https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUSTIN-HE...=item3a60697565

 

[Keoke]

Hi Randy just found one on E Bay being sold by "Sports & Classics" so hurry over there and get it:

If you want maybe you can call Virginia at the shop and she may give you a buy now price-Maybe??--Keoke

 

[RAC68]

Hi Randy/Keoke,

Thanks for the e-bay note. Also notice the e-bay listing and placed a bid. Keoke, will call Virginia in the morning. How timely.

I also sent an e-mail to Craig Arndt, per Duane Rhynard and Tracy Drummond's suggestion.

Thanks again to all for the direction.

All the best,

Ray (64BJ8P1)

 

[RAC68]

Hi all,

I decided to try to fix my trafficator base section since I found this section is available if I screw up. It seems that others have definitively described the refurbishment of the bakelite section housing the horn and turn signals, however, no information is available on what and how the base portion is constructed. For those few interested, enjoy.


As you can see from the picture, the parts expose when relieving the tabs holding the short shaft. When disassembling, the tube and flange is removed, followed by the back cover plate and thin plate with tab that fits into the notch. Around the hub and within the two halves of the housing are two brass washers that sandwich a spring. The hub tabs secure the flanged tube and hold the full assembly together.

Although all seems to be working, I did find that the problem was caused when the trafficator attachment plate did not extend far enough into the after-market wheel to be solidly fixed by the setscrews. Although setscrew resistance was sensed, the setscrews never really engaged the plate and all stress was born by the stator tube and the short base-plate tube. My present task is to configure a spacer that can be somehow attached to the trafficator base plate and engage the steering wheel setscrews. This spacer needs to be at least ¼” thick.

Any ideas?

All the best,
Ray (64BJ8P1)