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TR6 tr6 tie rod end stuck......

floyd

Senior Member
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Any words of wisdom on getting a tie rod loose from the tie rod lever? I've PB blasted it and will let set over nite. Thank for any help.......
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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TA-61900.jpg
 

TR6BILL

Luke Skywalker
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You the man, Randall. Although I have a slightly different tool for that. All is good.
 

John_Mc

Jedi Knight
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This is what I used:
tie rod end remover
(the item on the right)
oops, I see i delayed too much between reading and posting! Randall beat me to it, although i used the other device.
I think it said $19.99 for both on jcwhitney.com
 

TR6BILL

Luke Skywalker
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Must be a "dentist" thing.. Same one I use. I think they have a similar thing for removing old crowns....
 

John_Mc

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Heck, Bill. I think I'm just going to start using it for that! A lot cheaper than what Sullivan/Schein would charge!
 

martx-5

Yoda
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I have always rapped the outer part of the knuckle that surrounds the tapered pin with a BFH. I've been using that method for forty years and it has always worked. I've never experienced any damage to any parts doing this. Besides, there's always a big hammer laying around. :yesnod:
 

Andrew Mace

Moderator
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Similar to what Art suggests is the old junkyard trick I learned years ago from an old junkyard guy. Two BFH's: hold one on one side of the tie rod arm and hit the other side with the other BFH.

That said, I usually use a "pickle fork" (and a BFH on the end thereof). :wink:
 

DNK

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John_Mc said:
Heck, Bill. I think I'm just going to start using it for that! A lot cheaper than what Sullivan/Schein would charge!

I prefer Patterson.
 
R

RonMacPherson

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Okay, the old timers way. Two large hammers, One ballpeen and the other a five pound sledge or another large ballpeen.. Loosen the tie rod end nut. Holding one hammer against one side of the mounting bracket for the tie rod end, slam the other hammer against the other side once or twice, then reverse the impact side.. Then put the nut backon the tie rod end, but not tightening it up. Then smack the bottom of the tie rod end where the nut is a couple of times.. Most times the tie rod end will pop up. If it doesn't then use the tie rod end/balljoint puller indicated... Sears, most auto parts stores and HF carry them...

If it didn't pop off and you have to use the puller, apply the puller, make sure the threads on the puller are lubricated, seat it against the nut(loosened) on the tie rod end with the other end on top of the tie rod. Start turning the bolt head, while smacking the side of the tie rod end with a hammer. Will pop off...
 

TR6BILL

Luke Skywalker
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DNK said:
John_Mc said:
Heck, Bill. I think I'm just going to start using it for that! A lot cheaper than what Sullivan/Schein would charge!

I prefer Patterson.


Don, you dog, are you a lurking dentist, as well? Or did I know that?
 

DNK

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No I am not but 80% of my business is in Dental or Ortho offices.
After 20 years ya start to learn things.
 
OP
floyd

floyd

Senior Member
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Thanks for all the info. I ended up modifing a old clamp i had to get it off.Now that I got the tie rod end off.....how tight do I tighten the new one. My workshop manual does give me a whole of info on putting it back on. Of course...thanks for help.
 
T

Tinster

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floyd said:
Thanks for all the info. I ended up modifing a old clamp i had to get it off.Now that I got the tie rod end off.....how tight do I tighten the new one. My workshop manual does give me a whole of info on putting it back on. Of course...thanks for help.

Hey Floyd!!

Take it for what it's worth since a mechanic I am not.
But I did manage to install new tie rod ends myself.

I counted the revolutions required to remove my old
tie rod ends. I also marked the original tie rod end
location on the tie rod threads with masking tape.

I cranked on the new tie rod end the same number of
revolutions and tightened the thin fastening nut INTO
the end of the tie rod end to set it's location.

I tightened the large washer and lock nut on the bottom
of the steering arm to between 30# -38# with a torque wrench.

I might be in error on this and I'm sure the experts will
chime in if I've given you bad info.

If you did not count the original revolutions, it might be
a good idea to get your front wheels aligned once you are
back in the street..

Good luck!!


tinster
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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IMO counting revolutions is marginal at best. Better than nothing perhaps, but there is no guarantee that the new ends are exactly the same length as the old ones. Much better IMO to check the actual toe-in, using a simple gauge from scrap wood.

Mine is a length of 1x2, with two rectangles of Masonite nailed to it, so the edge of the Masonite comes up to the center of the tire when the 1x2 is on the floor and the Masonite is vertical.
 
T

Tinster

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Well, there you have it Floyd-
I flubbed my own car !!

Thanks Randall for correcting my mistake.

regards,

dale
 
OP
floyd

floyd

Senior Member
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the new on was a little longer than the old one. I clamped the wheel so it would not move. Readjusted the jam nut. But how tight do i tighted the nylon nut on the shaft that goes through the tie rod lever? untill it stop sucking down?
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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floyd said:
But how tight do i tighted the nylon nut on the shaft that goes through the tie rod lever? untill it stop sucking down?
I like to seat it with an ordinary nut first, so the nyloc doesn't try to spin the shaft when there is no way to grab it. Then install the nyloc and tighten to 30-40 ftlb.
 
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