Hi Larry,
Who did you talk with at TRF?
Your car definitely should have an early style R&P and already should have solid aluminum mounting clamps. If it's mounted in rubber and from the looks of the rack in the picture, someone has already been quite creative. I'd trade that for an early rack asap. The simply two types of R&P are not interchangeable. The length of the tie-rods, inner ball-joint pivots and other dimensions differ.
The only way to use the later type rack would be to pull the engine, radiator, etc. to get a clear shot at the frame members, cut off the old R&P "rabbit ear" brackets and weld in a set of the newer flat type mountings (late TR4 through TR6) that everyone curses about when it comes time to pretension the rubber R&P mountings (if they haven't already retrofitted the aluminum clamps from the earlier R&P). This would be a high precision job that needs top quality welding and a lot of access to the frame in the engine compartment.
If you instead get hold of an earlier R&P to use with the existing brackets, check while swapping the R&P units that the "rabbit ears" are solidly welded in. They tend to flex and then crack around the base, right where they join the main frame rail.
As early as your car is, there might be two gussets missing, too, that helps secure the brackets. Triumph added them mid-production. The ungusseted type are particularly prone to cracking. If omitted, I'd make a point of welding in a pair of gussets (they tie from the "rabbit ears" over to the brackets on the frame that support the big, horizontal, inner pivot pin for the front suspension arms.
You can see photos about adding these gussets on my web pages, at the link below. This gusset was missing from a code "B6" or "B8" frame (forget which) from a '62 that was replacing the slightly later "C" frame on my car, which had the gussets. (Unfortunately, I don't know the commission # of the car that was the source of the slightly earlier frame.) Otherwise, this frame is identical except for a missing exhaust hanger bracket.
I think it would be tricky, but possible to weld in these gussets and repair any cracks near the base of the "rabbit ear" brackets without removing too much from the engine compartment.
There are additional gussets and reinforcements possible with the early, "rabbit ear" brackets, but most of those mods would pretty much require a stripped engine compartment, possibly even lifting off the body.
How important are the gussets? Well, I can tell you the "rabbit ears" on my original frame - with the gussets - were in good shape and unbroken (frame had a rough life and was damaged elsewhere, but will be getting rehabbed too). The replacemnt, but slightly earlier frame was very clean and all welds were solid... except for those two un-gusseted brackets, which were hanging on by a thread!
If I remember correctly, the factory manual has some dimensions on the frame chart, showing precise locations of the R&P mount. Actually, I made up a jig to hold the brackets in place when I was working on the frame. I'd be happy to lend it to you if you need it.
So, in a nutshell, I recommend you track down the correct R&P, which will need the solid mounts you have already ordered, and check over the mounting brackets carefully before installing it.