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TR4/4A TR4 - Rear wheel slot key removal

Dono

Senior Member
Offline
Greetings,
The studs on my L rear wheel came loose, about 3 miles from home. It sounded like a bad bearing, thought I'd hobble home. I have wire wheels. It wasn't the bearing but loose studs. By the time I got home it had damaged the 4 stud threads and rounded open the outer wheel part w/ splines that the wire wheel attaches to. I need new parts.
How is that key / pin that holds the inner plate w/ studs removed?
Thanks, Dono
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
The piece that carries the studs (most call it a hub) isn't held by the key, but by a "locking" taper between it and the axle shaft. There is a special tool required to remove it from the shaft.

However, if you just need to change the studs, you can leave the hub on the shaft. Undo the 6 bolts and lockplates that go in from the back, then pull the axle out with the hub still attached. That will give you easy access to the back of the studs, so you can grind away where they are staked to the hub, and unscrew them. Screw in the new studs (preferably with some Loctite) and stake them in place.

If you do need to pull the hubs off, I would suggest removing the axles anyway, and taking (or shipping) them to someone that has the proper tool. Don't let someone with a hydraulic press try to force them apart, as that frequently distorts and ruins the hub.

This photo shows a small Triumph hub being removed, but the tool & process are similar for your TR4.
 

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Dono

Senior Member
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Thanks for the response Randall.

Q: In para 2, you mention grinding the back of the studs, then unscrewing them? Why grind, if they're screwed in? In the Victoria British sales guide it shows the studs and they appear to screw in from the front side. So something must be ground off the back? Thanks, Don
 

Geo Hahn

Yoda
Country flag
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They're screwed in then the backside is swaged (mushroomed, mooshed, whatever).

Randall mentions the taper fitting that locks the hub in -- that connection makes 'The Sword in the Stone' look like a hot knife in butter.

Love that photo -- you only see the guys hands -- I suspect he's a Sumo wrestler on steroids.
 
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Dono

Senior Member
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Randall, or anyone -
I did as suggested, left the hub on the exle and removed the 6 bolts behind the brake plate. All the axle came out. I ground the back of the 4 studs flat, but they do not appear to unscrew. I presume lefty losie. I all so heated one w/ my torch and it wiggles, like it is only pressed in. Are they screwed in? Left or right loosen?
I can't imagine they'd only be pressed in since they do hold the axle & wheel to the car.

Thanks, Don
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
They are threaded, then swaged (spread until they lock into place). You either didn't get all the swaging ground away, or didn't apply enough force to unscrew them. The only time I've done it myself (on a TR3A), I had to grind into the end of the stud slightly, and then it visibly crushed a bit as it came out. Threads are normal RH threads, so "lefty loosey" is correct.
 

bgbassplyr

Darth Vader
Offline
Still tight? May be rusted. Try a dose of 'weasel pee' to loosen the studs, 50% ATF and Acetone. Will not make a solution, only a suspension, so shake well and then apply.
 

TR4nut

Yoda
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Don't forget the dreaded previous owner. You may have conventional pressed in studs there - was the back of the studs standing proud of the hub? If so, I suspect replacement press-ins, as the peened versions are pretty flush with the hub.
 
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Dono

Senior Member
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Greetings,
Thank you all for the assistance. After cutting a slot into the threaded end of the stud, placing some rust buster on it overnight, and much torquing, I still cannot break any of the studs loose, so I surrender, and called Scott Harper for a hub. He had a used one available for a straight axle TR4, and a new outer hub & nuts. I'll have a local shop pull the inner hub and will then repack the bearings as part of the repair when I get the parts.
Thanks again for the suggestions. Don
 
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