TR2/3/3A TR3B Front suspension

[Mmeck]

Hi All
I'm rebuilding my front suspension and after disconnecting the idler arm so that it is free to move, I find that the lever has a very small amount of wobble. Is that normal or should it be replaced? I can't figure out what holds the lever in the idler bracket. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Mike

 

[TR3driver]

A small amount of play is normal (or at least the new ones have it).

The lever unscrews from the bracket, but you have to remove the bracket from the frame first.

 

[Mmeck]

Thanks Randall
I'm just off too continue the front end rebuild. Most of the right side is apart and I hope to start putting it back together. I found that the steering box is leaking badly at the seal. Do you think I should tackle a steering box rebuild or just replace the seal? I'm not too enthusiastic about removing the front valance to get it out, but the repair looks doable as described at Macy's Garage.

Thanks
Mike

 

[Moseso]

Since you have a 3B, you undoubtedly have the two-piece steering column. 'Tis said that one can remove the steering box without removing the whole front of the car -- if you have the two-piece column.

 

[TR3driver]

I would go ahead and do the box, at least replace the bushing & peg. It made a world of difference on my TR3A, like night and day. And I don't believe it is practical to change the seal without removing the box anyway. There is also a good chance that the seal is leaking because the bushing is bad.

As Moses says, it can be removed without pulling the front apron. But having done it that way, I am not totally convinced that it is less work or at least not much less. The cross tube has to be taken loose on both ends (which isn't easy with the apron in place), the horn removed and the motor mounts loosened so you can jack the motor up for clearance. Then you have to fiddle with turning the shaft to position the Pitman arm, as you lever the lower steering column forward past the mounting bracket and then lift it out. Lots of finicky work in cramped, hard to see places while leaning over the fender; compared to sitting comfortably while you loosen the dozen or so bolts that hold the apron to the wings.

Reinstalling the cross tube can be a challenge. You may have to jack the car up by the center of the frame, to get the towers to spread enough to get the tube into place.

When reinstalling the seal, you may find it advantageous to either leave it sticking out a bit, or drive it in deeper than usual, so the seal rides on the unworn portion of the shaft. Or just replace the shaft, as I see TRF now has them listed.

 

[Mmeck]

That's all great advice and I think I will remove the apron to get at the steering box. I just finished getting the right side completely torn down and am cleaning a lot of crud. I"m finding many old yellow paint marks by the attachment points that appear to be QC marks. I guess I should mention that I bought this car about 4 months ago and while the PO said (of course) that it was pretty original, I just received the BMIHT copy of the factory record and I'm happy that all the numbers match including color and trim. It was built on 3 Sept. 1962 so it's just turned 50. This is great.