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Torque Wrenches

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J

J Eade

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Any advice on a torque wrench? Sears sells a model with a digital readout of the torque setting. Sounds like a good design, but would appreciate any advise from those with some experience with these tools. I need settings below 100 ft/lbs. Thanks.
 
I have one of those Craftsman Digitorque models. the handle which lines up the little window to the readings slips sometimes, rendering the tool useless. I would go the traditional route.
 
Another caveat with Craftsman torque wrenches......they are not covered by the replacement warranty. There are several good ones out there, so why not buy the best that you can afford and have it last you a lifetime? I am not a fan of the beam-type models, even though I have one myself. Griots Garage sells a good one that comes with a lifetime warranty and free re-calibration service. Not the cheapest, but good quality.

https://www.griotsgarage.com/search.jsp?searchtext=torque

Alternatively, Armstrong make tools of excellent quality, catering more for the industrial marketplace than the automotive, but that is only because Snap-On and Mac have a stranglehold on that. Same type of tools, same quality, but lower pricing. Usually available from industrial distributors. I have a few Armstrong tools and I am more than happy with them. Owned by the company that also own Allen and Matco tools.
 
I use a dial indicator type for engine assembly, and the click type for everything else. One thing often overlooked with a torque wrench is keeping the calibration up to date. I have all mine done once a year. More often if there is a reason to, like dropping it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
Jeff
 
I worked at sears in the automotive department for awhile and the digital torque wrenches never lasted well. The traditional ones always worked well and I never saw one break. I have a cheap $25 ebay toque wrench and it works well for basic stuff but I wouldn't trust it on anything that requires high accuracy. The Griots one looks nice and free recalibration would be great.
 
Just a note on torque wrench accuracy.
Torque wrenches are not rated for accuracy at anything below about 20% of full scale. In other words, a 150 ft lb wrench "could be" way off at readings below 30 ft lbs. Not good for plugs in aluminum heads & such.
D
 
And, a note on calibration.
When you have the wrench calibrated, if it's the breakaway type, that does not mean they adjust it so it reads exactly what you select. You get a calibration sheet that lists selected torque, and actual applied torque. Say, if you want 100 lbs ft, you may have to set it at 110 to actually get 100. It's a common mistake.
Jeff
 
Time to jump in here with another view. While the various 'click' type wrenches are really cool, and quite easy to use, they do, as mentioned above, go out of calibration. The beam type, lowly things that they are, never need calibration. They are more difficult to use, and will never 'wow' anyone, but they work, always work, and are less expensive. You want to work in the mid range of any wrench, and by using beam type, one can afford to have several, even in a hobby situation.
 
I have a click type and a beam type and use the click type for everything I work on. When I am assembling an engine though I do always check one bolt with my beam wrench just to make sure the clicker is where I want it.
 
I was bolting the clutch onto the Spitfire 1500 flywheel and strectching the little 1/4 28 bolts. The wrench was set at 22lbs./ft. I can't believe that I got all the sub-standard bolts that Ace Hardware had. Out of nine bolts four of them became unusable. After reading here I believe the wrench may be at fault. Does Sears still have that replacement program? T.T.
 
Trevor,
If the bolts truly are 1/4", the maximum torque recommendation is 5 ft lb for grade 1 bolts & up to 10 ft lb for grade 8 bolts. Also as I said earlier, torque wrenches are not accuracy rated below about 20 % of their full scale reading. You would need a 50 ft lb maximum reading wrench , or more likely something in the 300 inch pound area.
D
 
Trevor, all my 1500 clutches require "S" grade fasteners, roughly the equivalent of Grade 8. They are 5/16"x24, and torqued to 20 lbs ft.
When I get below about 40 lbs ft., I prefer to use the inch pound torque wrench, as it will give more accurate readings.
Jeff
 
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torque wrench? what's a torque wrench? seriously...does anyone ever use those things?

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I'll make a note not to buy any cars you may ever have for sale. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Bruce
 
[ QUOTE ]
torque wrench? what's a torque wrench? seriously...does anyone ever use those things?

[/ QUOTE ]
Steven, not all the time. For rod bolts, I use a bolt stretch gauge.
Jeff
 
[ QUOTE ]
Steven, not all the time. For rod bolts, I use a bolt stretch gauge.Jeff

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Is that the one which measures the length of stretch after the bolt breaks or the one which measures how soon the bolt will break since it has been stretched?

Bruce
 
Bruce, actually it's a fixture with a dial indicator attached that measures the amount the bolt stretches as it is tightened. Proper torque is applied when the bolt is stretched near it's elastic limit. On the rod bolts in my Carillo rods, for instance, the recommended stretch is .004" to .006". I set them at .005", which equates to about 19 lbs ft. I know that doesn't sound like much, but they are only 1/4x28 bolts.
Jeff
 
Stretch is a good way; another is angle torque, which many manufacturers are using. The deal is, you want to have a uniform clamping force between two parts. Take a cylinder head, for example. If one of the studs is boogered up, then the exact torque applied to that as the others will result in a lesser clamping force at that spot. My measuring the torque angle, that cannot happen.
 
I agree that angle torque is a good method, but if one of the studs was "boogered up", why in the world would you be using it anyway?
Jeff
 
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