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Tonight's Question - shocks [and one spring]

JPSmit

Moderator
Staff member
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So, cleaned the shocks tonight (and the springs which I planned on painting.)

To my great surprise, there was yellow and blue paint on the rear shocks (see pic) any idea why? Then, as I cleaned up the springs, the same blue appeared - but- if you look at the pic, it is almost as though someone ran a brush only over that spot. It's the same on both springs. Any ideas?

In addition, I have a few questions.

1. I assume no paint for shocks?

2. The "arm" of the shock I assume goes in one position and one position only, therefore I shouldn't remove it to paint it. (it is black)

3. Is there any reason to empty and refill the shock? Or does the oil stay good?

4. If I do need to refill, please remind me of what oil.

TIA
 

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john_j

Jedi Trainee
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I don't know what the yellow and blue paint is on the shocks or spring - maybe on the spring it's so someone didn't mix them up with others that they had?

Yes, leave the arm where it is, it does have one position and unless you have marked it, you won't gte it back on in the same position, and anyway they are VERY dificult to get off. If you undo the nut you won't be able to pull the arm off without using heat and a strong puller.

I think the oil stays good, but do you know for sure that they are full? I usually drain them (remove filler cap, hold upside down and move the arm through the full stroke a few times).

Then fill with shock oil, or motorbike fork oil. Fill, move arm through full stroke, refil, move arm, keep going until it is full, and there is steady resistance all the time.
 
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I use oil for hydrostatic drive tractors. Cheap... no foaming... seems to be the right weight.

...can anyone tell me if this is a bad idea?
 

Morris

Yoda
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I have heard from my brother's father in law that the MG dealer told him (back when there was such a thing) to use hydralic jack oil. Tony, I believe, always reccomends mineral oil.

But I wouldn't know. I blew my money on that stuff they sell at Vicky Brit. *sigh*
 

PeterC

Jedi Warrior
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Oooh,Oooh I know, I know.

Paint. Imagine you're at Armstrong making 100's of lever shocks that all kind of look the same... at least the rear bodies do for both Spridgtes, early Healeys, TR2,3,4s. If you want to make a rear shock for a post-64 Spridget part number 8681, grab a blue and yellow arm. If you want an early Healey, grab the silver, and a TR3, grab the brown. (Valving is also different, of course) Same holds for springs, and somewhere I have the current code for that.

Yes, a flush and fill is reasonable, but don't bother if they are leaking. Use Trevor's hydraulic oil. It is perfect. Use AWE68 which is a 20W.

Mineral oil is the same as baby oil.... and I've seen babies foam. ;-)
 

jlaird

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According to the good book, Bugeye shocks are not to be painted. The arms yes, black, the bodies no.

Transmission is painted same as engine and rear end including alm black.

Otherwise, Peter is the shock man, do as he says and you will never have a shock problem.
 

PeterC

Jedi Warrior
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If you want to paint the arms black, "mask" the bodies with a latex glove. Works well, and fits like.....

And, the rear arms should have blue and yellow stripe, according to a better book. And the steering arms should be yellow!
 

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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What book Peter, I have been useing the "Orginal Sprite and Midget" I do not have the check sheet from AH club.

Nice glove trick, now you tell me, hehe.
 

bugimike

Yoda
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I like that glove trick too!! I can think of a lot of uses for that! I have always used tin-foil with good result for that kind of masking job!
 

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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Love your lazy mans approach Peter, cool.
 

jcatnite

Jedi Knight
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Peter, you do brake calipers too? I'm extremely happy with the shocks you sent me. Just finished intalling them this morning. Thanks for all the help.
JC
 
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