Rich, I cut down the outer surface of the colar of the bushing to reduce the thickness of the colar. this allowed the bolt offset on the left to be proud of the colar and the bolt taper on the right to be wholely unshrouded. I did this in multiple steps with the bushing in a vise and a belt sander. It was a pain, I didn't take much off each time, I wanted to remove just enough material from the bushing colar to allow the 'system' to work as it should but keep end play between the end pieces and the bushing colar to a minimum. I had to press the bushings in and out a number of times till I got it right. I just remembered another thing that surprised me very much when I did these bushings....When I 1st pressed the bushings into their respective bosses which is just a section of pipe creating a round orfice to accept the bushings, after the bushings where pressed into place, their inside diameter shrunk. I couldn't believe that that pipe boss had the strength to compress the bronze bushing without the pipe spliting given the fact that the bushing body is rather thick. At first I thought I must have rolled the edge of the inner diameter with my mandrel thereby keeping the bolt from sliding in. So I gentley reamed the end but the bolt would not go in. Yet the bolt was a loose fit on the bench. Since the working quarters are rather tight at the rear of the spring, i had to press the bushings back out each time i wanted to adjust their fit. So I pressed the bushing back out, bored the whole alittle with a sand paper mandrel, (realize that this was on the bench and on the bench the bolt slipped thru the bushings easily from the start) I had no reference just alittle at a time, then refit it. What a pain. But they are in there now. If the shackle is tight it will lock your spring at the trailing end in one position or the other. ... Dave.