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Tips
Tips

thermostate fitting in eng. block

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gents, im breaking down my engine in my 63bj7 for a rebuild the only obstacle ive run into is removing the water temp. probe tube from the block, been soaking it with liquid wrench and tried an open end on it but can tell its gunna get buggered up if i continue i thought id cut a slit/opening into a box wrench allowing me to get past the tube,to perhaps get a tighter fit on the nut, does anyone have an additional solution? or im i going to have to just cut the tube and do what i must to remove it once the engine is out?
 

GregW

Yoda
Platinum
Country flag
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Hi Anthony,
The one advantage of cutting up a socket (instead of a box wrench) is you can put a hose clamp around it to keep the socket from expanding (then slipping) as you put a little muscle behind it. Get one of those sockets that has a hex head on the top like a spark plug socket.
 

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
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Hi Anthony,
Wait untill some of the other guys here respond to what I am going to say.

I remember how difficult it was to get access on that nut too. Once you figure out how to get the nut loose, then the sensor may be stuck.

If I recall, I removed the thermostat and inserted something (wrench, long screwdriver, long bar) to leverage against the sensor, to break the rusty seal. A couple good taps and some prying to push the sensor out. Roger
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
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7777's /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif


Put the "Liquid Wrench" up on the shelf and get some PB Blaster, spray it on,then with a brass drift tap all around the hold down nut. Repeat this a few times then use Greg's suggested wrench method to loosen it.---Fwiw--Keoke
 
OP
A
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gents, thanks all, boy these things were so much easier to work on 40 some od years ago! if anyones interested the reason for the rebuild is 1- i like to know what im dealing with, 2- a catastrophic failure of the "new" oil pump i installed that included destroying the lower "but" end of the drive shaft.not the gear side.picts to follow. goin to start removing interior tonight. ooohboooy! summers comin,summers comin---
 

BlueRidge2

Jedi Hopeful
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Anthony, I used the method Greg mentioned, Spark plug socket
If you have access to a milling machine mill a 3/8" slot the entire length of the socket and it will work great.
If you cut the tube be prepared to pay about $125. to have it reattached. I think it has alcohol or some kind of liquid inside the bulb. Bob
 
OP
A
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blueridge, ya the tube is expensive dont need to spend an extra $125.00 on top of all the stuff ill need to buy for the rebuild i dont have a printing press in my basement like keoke,(i understand he prints a picture of himself on the notes he makes), i figured others also had this problem thus my question, seems were all on the same page with much help thanks.
 
OP
A
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gents, heres my solution, first pb blaster soaking for two and a half days, tapping around the nut with a drift several times, then my new tool, anyone wishing to do this i recommend cutting it a the bottom end of its loop (see pict.) so it acts like a strap wrench when loosening and cant expand,-
 

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AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
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Ya know Anthony7777, I bet we'll be seeing a version of this tool you made with the usual suspects.

Anyone notice that happened shortly after we talked and showed photos of turning the rear reflectors into stop/turn signal lights?

Anyway, back to the subject at hand. Great job! Nice photos.
Roger
 

stinky60

Jedi Hopeful
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works real well, done the same thing myself,tried with a flared wrench but the head was to big.try to use an off brand wrench so you don't screw up your snapon tools
 
OP
A
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stinky60, thats a good point,i have a set of snap on wrenches designed to get around tubing, break lines etc, but the outside walls are to thick so i went to napa and bought a cheepy 5/8 for $2.50 /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif
 
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