Starting an Engine parts list - Winter Project

[vping]

I might build myself an engine this winter and want to start a list. Might be for the '67 GT - Might be for the '74 so I'll need opinions on both.

I'm thinking 30 over so I'll need pistons and rings.

Cam - I'd like more response off the line and up to 60 MPH. After that I'm not looking to go too fast. It cruises great at 70-80 but not looking for super performance up there.

Crank will be turned so I'll need new Crank & rod bearings.

What the consensus on manufacturers of all the new parts I'll be needing? I've heard of a few but will need feedback from more experienced wrenchers.

More of the list:
Timing chain and tensioner
Oil pump

 

[DrEntropy]

A proper conversion set: Payen!

 

[vping]

Payen gaskets are on the list.

 

[gjoakes]

I went through this exercise last winter/spring so some of this is still fresh in my mind. I thoroughly enjoyed the whole process and the results have been well worth the effort. Like you I started by making out a list of parts but the biggest gain from doing this is it forces you to think of (and plan for) all the stuff that will need to be done. If you are doing the assembly, another suggestion is to document all the work you want done by the machine shop. Give it to the machine shop when you delivery the block. Don't be afraid to discuss machining tolerances with them.

Some of my comments:

For my build I sourced some of the parts before hand but most were purchased during or after the machining process. I asked the machine shop to supply some as well - especially if they were doing the 'assembly' of that part. It is probably impossible to anticipate everything needed.

I'm thinking 30 over so I'll need pistons and rings.

Cam - I'd like more response off the line and up to 60 MPH. After that I'm not looking to go too fast. It cruises great at 70-80 but not looking for super performance up there.

Crank will be turned so I'll need new Crank & rod bearings.

You won't really know how much oversize is needed until the cylinder bores are measured. +.030 may not be enough. Same way with crank journals. A Speedi-sleeve for the rear seal journal may be needed if it is even moderately grooved (mine was).

The Crane 'street' grind can be purchased discounted for about the same price as a new factory profile cam - others may comment on how much performance improvement it offers in your target RPM range. I went with the stock profile because of concerns for valve to piston/block clearances. New lifters are probably a must for either.

There is a good chance that you'll need head work. Again, you won't really know all the required parts until it gets to the machine shop. Replacement valves, springs and guides are relatively cheap however and I replaced them just as a matter of convenience. My head got all new exhaust seats and one of the intake seats was also cracked. I let the machine shop source these.

Since the engine is out you might as well do a new clutch. Any issue with the transmission? Nows the time to address them.

The part of the rebuild that gave me the most problem was the oil galley plugs. Because of the condition of the engine I had to knock them out for cleaning. The machine shop I dealt with was reluctant to do them so I ended up removing and replacing them myself. Everyone has their own experience with this part of the job but what worked for me was drilling and tapping instead of pressing in the factory-type brass plugs. I used a combination of 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8 NSF plugs.

I also had a lot of problems with the fit of gaskets. The Payens are well worth the extra expense. They are the only brand that effectively sealed the lifter side covers on my engine.

ARP rod bolts and head studs are expensive but provide a high degree of security after spending all that money for everything else.

Have fun!
Greg Oakes

 

[DrEntropy]

Greg's got it. You won't really know which bearings you'll need to get until the crank is spec'd. You can mic it on disassembly yourself but better to have a machinist have a look and "qualify" it. Best thing is: hand your machinist a copy of the engine spec's from the Bentley manual along with the engine. Communicate with the machinist.

I've put Crane cams in more than a few B engines, always with new lifters... this can be a real concern of late, be sure the lifters are properly Rockwell hardness checked!

The B here Herself has is fitted with a mild street Crane in an 18GB, +0.020" overbore, -0.010" mains & rods and has close to 80K on the mill. Still strong, no smoke, Weber 40 DCOE. But it was put together before the "soft" lifter issues. I dread the day I'll have to screw together another engine for it. Right now the bare spare block is holdin' up th' beer locker inna garage. :wink:


Plan for the ARP fasteners. No way to tell how the existing ones were treated and trusting the "common" ones to be anything but taffy would be foolhardy, IMO.

 

[vping]

Rockwell hardness checked? What's that?

ARP fastners. Should you not re-use any fasteners from the original Engine?

 

[Scott_Hower]

Rockwell hardness checked? What's that?

ARP fastners. Should you not re-use any fasteners from the original Engine?

"Rockwell hardness" is a test that determines the surface hardness of a material. The higher the number the harder the surface, as I recall. The harder the better for tappets.

I would not re-use head studs, but I did re-use the main/rod bolt hardware.

Add Vandervell/Glacier bearings to your list assuming you can still find them. Failing that, King also makes a good tri-metal bearing.