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Tips
Tips

Spot lights

AltaKnight

Jedi Knight
Offline
Hi everyone, I'm interested in buying and mounting a pair of spotlights to the front of my '73 TR6 and have a few questions. I've seen many different ways to do this, some look better than others, is there a "proper/original" way to do this?
Round or rectangular shape
Bottom or rear mount
How to mount, on a bar, drill holes in bumper
Below the bumper or above (in front of grille)

I'm interested to see what others think.
 

Cottontop

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Graham,

Here are pictures of the Driving Lights that I have installed on my Austin Healey.

The brackets are cut from 1/4" aluminum plate with a sabre saw and smoothed with sand paper.

The lights are available from JC Whitney for about $30. They are VERY bright and long range.
They are sealed to keep moisture off of the reflectors.

I bought extra bulbs and lenses as well.

https://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/s-10101/p-3491/c-10101

Tim


DriveLightsBracket.jpg


DriveLights.jpg
 

Alan_Myers

Luke Skywalker
Offline
Hi,

My vote for auxiliary lights on a TR6 would be rectangular. I just think those would look best on the car and are "period correct". I'd hang them below the bumper, or sit them atop it, depending upon the size and type of light and your preferences. Spot/driving lights would work best mounted a little higher. Fog lights generally work best mounted relatively low. However you do it, be careful to minimize blocking airflow to the radiator.

I do agree the round lights look "right" on the AH, and prefer them on my '62 TR4 and earlier cars.

I've used Hella 500 series on various cars over the years. These come in a choice of round or rectangular, are well made, work great and are reasonably priced.

With a pair of round lights, the one in front of the driver is often a long range driivng/spot light, while the one in front of the passenger is a fog light, and they are switched separately. The fog light might be relay connected to the low beams, while the spot is relay connected to the high beam. This is the factory set up on my Land Rover, which has both fogs and driving/spot lights.

Mostly it is just the design of lens that is mounted in the lamp housing that differentiates driving/spot from fog lamps. Sometimes the lenses were also different colors, clear for driving/spot and yellow for fog.

However using two different types of lights isn't a hard and fast rule, by any means. Different drivers used different lights. For example, the works TR4 rally cars were set up with 2, 3 or 4 auxiliary lights added to the front, plus one or two on the rear as reverse lights! Various combinations of spot and fog were used on the front, while fog were usually used for reversing lights.

In most new sets of lights you might purchase, both are the same type. And, if you chooose rectangular, the types aren't usually mixed.

By the way, it's a good idea to add additional fuses along with relays to actuate any auxiliary lighting. The original wiring harness might not be up to the additional voltage demands. Also consider the power draw on the your battery and alternator.

Alan
 
G

Guest

Guest
Guest
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I'm thinking of putting a set of lights on my 6 this spring also. I like the round driving lights, like Moss part # 162-835 (price is good to),I think they sort of compliment the round headlights. I know the "period correct" pieces would be the rectangular Lucas or Marcal (spelling?) lights, but I just like the rounds ones better. I plan on mounting above the bumper, by drilling holes (stem mount). My front bumper is nice and straight, no rust at all, but the chrome is worn so I don't have any reservations about drilling it. I am a little worried about airflow to the rad, so I plan on pushing them outboard as far as possible without it looking goofy. Power wise I'm planning on upgrading to a Bosch 60 amp alternator as part of my electric fan conversion this spring, so that should handle the demands of the lights as well. The new fan should also help offset any reduced airflow to the rad that may be caused by the lights.

Here's a tip though, check with your local DMV on auxillary lights. Here in NJ, if you have any type of fog or driving lights they must be relayed so that they automatically switch off when the high beams are engaged. They will test them, and if they don't switch off, they will fail you. However, if you've got some type of classic registration you may be exempt from inspection. I have what we call QQ registration on my car, and we don't have to ever have the car inspected, which helps with mods such as this. If your car has a normal registration though you might want to check with the DMV on the light requirements, lots of states have them.
 

Geo Hahn

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
...For example, the works TR4 rally cars were set up with 2, 3 or 4 auxiliary lights added to the front, plus one or two on the rear as reverse lights!...

[/ QUOTE ]

And don't forget the spotlight on top of the roof with the handle extending into the car. Yes, those rally cars seemed to have the same candlepower as a 747 while landing.

I tried to find a pic of a TR6 rally car for light examples but seems the glory days of that set-up were the 3s and 4s (though I also found many 7s).
 
G

Guest

Guest
Guest
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Graham,
I too drive a '73 TR6 and I have opted for the Cibie Airports. They are rectangular lights that I run the amber lenses in for fog. I keep them on day or night and give me excellant protection from the other drivers that just don't see a small green LBC. I have mine mounted directly under the bumper. You will have to coat the lense with that lense protective vinyl from 3M. If you are curious I can expand on the how and why to apply this product. (Saves many a soda glass lense from rocks.) It is imperative that you run a separate circuit for your fog lights. I drew the juice directly form my starter and ran it through a quality relay. I found the perfect rocker switch that mounts directly in the dash where my seatbelt warning light used to be. The rocker lights up when on. (Actually made in England, kinda cool) Looks OE. Don't ever buy the cheesey auxillary light wiring setup from Pep Boys, etc. These are amatuer. Make up your own harness and get the relay from someone that sells good quality product. Got mine from a marine electrical shop. Used an inline fuse so that I wouldn't have anything to do with my Lucas wiring harness. Fog lights draw a fair amount of juice. Cibie makes a quality product. Used to have Super Oscars mounted in front of my TR2. Melt the paint off a Healey.

Bill
 
OP
AltaKnight

AltaKnight

Jedi Knight
Offline
Hey Cottontop, the AH looks great.
Good points on the relaying and the DMV issues also.
Thanks to all
 
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