Smog Equipment Removal

[ScotStern]

I have a 1975 MGB, in California, and it is no longer required to pass SMOG inspections. Is there any advantage to removing the SMOG equipment and, if so what would you remove? Is it a big job? The car runs OK but if it would run better......

Thanks,

Scot
1975 and 1979 MBGs

 

[Bret]

Hey Scott,

Famous question. But in a word “yes” there is. However you won't see that much improvement performance-wise without some other modifications and to make the best of it.

I’d keeping the single Zenith Stromberg set-up as it is – until you do some research & decide what you want to do and start collecting the parts for the configuration you think you might want.

Some of the most popular conversions are a down draft Weber or a set of SUs. The Weber is the cheapest and easiest, while the duel SUs would be more nostalgic.

What would you like to do - would be my first question?

Bret

 

[Bugeye58]

Scot, just make sure you keep anything you remove, as laws change, and you may be forced to restore it to a stock condition at a later date.
Jeff

 

[John Moore]

What ever you do, leave the charcoal canister. It does nothing to hurt performance, but does help the atmosphere.

 

[PAUL161]

As the old saying goes, " If it aint broke, don't fix it". I agree with Bret, that you must be ready to go the whole route if you want noticable performance.But be prepared to dig deep in your pockets. Performance always costs! PJ

 

[Bret]

Early on when I thought my 78B would be exempt when it reached 30, I planed on removal of the major limited factor in all 75-80 MGBs. That being - the oh so restrictive single Zenith Stromberg & combo intake/exhaust system.

The plan I first considered was to fine a duel SU setup manifold & header. Heck I was even going to keep the smog pump and connect it in the same manor as the earlier MGBs, as I don’t think the gains of the parasitic smog pump’s removal would be that noticeable.

Now I realize that the easy route a lot of folks go is to install a down draft Weber setup but there is no seamless way to incorporate the pump. So removal of the smog pump is pretty much a none issue. But I guess in a pinch you could probably drill a hole in the manifold if you really felt you had to keep the pump.

To do it right these two options are probably your best & most cost-effective choices without delving into costly internal engine modifications.

Whatever you do as has been suggested don’t (repeat) DON’T toss any of your emissions equipment as the emissions laws have a funny way of changing. This is especially true here in the Peoples Republic of Kalifonia! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

 

[ScotStern]

Actually, what got the thoguht process started was the "clanging" noise in the front end of the engine on a cold start up.

I disconnected the smog pump to see if it was causing the noise. It was not, but I noticed that it did not turn easily and I thought that maybe it was nearing the end of its life.

Is it normal for these things not to easily turn by hand?

Thanks,

Scot
75 MGB

 

[DrEntropy]

Should spin with little effort. The veins may be clogged up. They *can* be disassembled/cleaned/serviced. PITA, but "do-able." You may find the veins have broken or worn beyond useability though.

Surely there's someplace they can be sent for rebuild, likely someone here will be along with that info shortly.