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Slow Ticking Pump

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Wife & I took the Healey out for about a 2 hr run last night getting back after dark. Left the Healey sitting in the driveway running while I went around to open the garage. Before I got back to the car it stalled. It Never stalls. Since I put this thing all back together, after it is warmed up it just idles perfectly at 400 rpms and doesn't stall. Got in, tried to start it, it fired up but immediately it fluttered to a stall and stopped. Acted like it was out of gas. Sat there with ignition on, listening for pump ticking, no ticking. So I flipped the toggle switch to the #2 pump, heard it ticking and started the car right up and drove into the garage. This morning upon checking the #1 pump found nothing wrong.
Started engine on # 1 pump, left it idle for about 10 minutes, still running, took it for about 30 minute ride using #1 pump, no problems. Don't know what was going on with it last night. But I have notice that the # 1 pump ticks slower and quieter than the # 2 pump. The # 1 pump is the older of the two, alot older. But they are the same model, the dual polarity, later BJ8 pump. What do you think about the slower ticking of the older pump? and quieter? They are both mounted the same. Dave :confused:
 

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CLEAH

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I suppose it is just wearing out and getting wonky. But the most important thing you said was you flipped the switch for the #2 pump and you started right up. That is the lesson here! I will add that one to the list of things I'll be doing once I get to the reassembly stage!
 
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Thanks Greg, your all heart. :smile: It's one of these. Since they are not labeled maybe I picked the wrong one. Dave.
 

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Thanks Greg, your all heart. :smile: It's one of these. Since they are not labeled maybe I picked the wrong one. Dave.

OH Yeah I see how you could ah made a mistake . :devilgrin:
 
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If they were all in the down position then I was running on vapors for 2 hours. Gotta get those labels made. :rolleye:
 
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The definitive answer might come from Dave DuBois, who rebuilds pumps for a hobby and is a recognized authority:

https://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/

He's pretty good about answering inquiries, and does excellent work rebuilding pumps (including a 24-hour 'burn in'). Anyway, I do think the pumps seem to get weaker before they're about to fail, and usually fail intermittently before they go TU permanently. Resistance in the points, electronic circuit or the solenoid coil probably increases with age.
 

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Well if a pump seems to work OK even though it has a slower ticking rate than another.
This can simply be a small difference in the throw over adjustment between the two pumps.

However, I would rebuild or replace it.
 
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Hello All, I searched and found an article by Dave DuBois. In it he says that slow operation of the pump is usually caused by the diaphram getting stiffer with age. ( I know this pump is over 18 yrs old) It can also be attributed to the points either coroded or out of adjustment. He says all these issues with the pump can be rebuilt so I will contact Dave to see what it cost for the parts to rebuild it. But this pump is also the one that I had trouble with the banjo fitting when I was installing it a few months ago. The previous owner had put double washers on the banjo and when I tightened it alittle it pulled the threads. I removed the extra washer and had enough threads to secure it but I figured if I ever had to mess with it again the threads would be questionable. So a new pump is highly on my mind. I really should not have used this pump knowing its age, but I'm the sort that if it works keep it.
Thanks, Dave.
 

Patrick67BJ8

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Hello All, I searched and found an article by Dave DuBois. In it he says that slow operation of the pump is usually caused by the diaphram getting stiffer with age. ( I know this pump is over 18 yrs old) It can also be attributed to the points either coroded or out of adjustment. He says all these issues with the pump can be rebuilt so I will contact Dave to see what it cost for the parts to rebuild it. But this pump is also the one that I had trouble with the banjo fitting when I was installing it a few months ago. The previous owner had put double washers on the banjo and when I tightened it alittle it pulled the threads. I removed the extra washer and had enough threads to secure it but I figured if I ever had to mess with it again the threads would be questionable. So a new pump is highly on my mind. I really should not have used this pump knowing its age, but I'm the sort that if it works keep it.
Thanks, Dave.
I had my BJ8 pump rebuilt a couple of years ago by Dave. Converted to neg ground and cost $125/00. Good turn-around time.
 
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Since I'm on the net tonight I'll tell you the latest. But I might be premature. Today I put a new set of points in it, didn't get it done till late so didn't test much. But turned it on for a quick test before locking up and it pumped right up. Sounded pretty good. It'll be Thursday before I can get back to it to give it a more lenghty test. I'll let you know how it turns out. Dave C.
 

Keoke

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Yes they have been used as a preference over the old capacitor. The referenced article advocates a Type P6KE20CA--FWIW

:savewave:Dave stick one of these diodes in there before you button it up.
 
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Hi Ray, I am interested in that TVS diode. Unfortunately I can't open that paper you wrote. I remember you talking about it sometime ago here on the Forum. I have alot of questions about it. Like what is it? Does TVS stand for "Transient Voltage Surpressing". I have a reasonable electrical background from the Community College and 40 years in the Electrical Distribution field but I don't know much about electronic devices. This TVS is still a diode. But isn't there alot of different technologies that TVS includes? So how do I know what to buy? And here's the BIG question, where do you buy it? The only thing people at radio shack know how to do is play with their cell phone.
I don't have the picture I took of the end of the fuel pump with cap removed in the computer yet. But I will post it soon. There was ,until I broke the lead on it, a device in series with the ground side of the points. It is round disc shape, black, about the size of a dime. At first I thought it was a capcitor. I took it to the only TV repair shop that I knew of, one that used to fix TVs and recorders but now the new owner really just sells stuff. He looked at it and said he didn't think it was a capacitor. It doesn't have a capacitor symbol on it nor does it have farads marked on it. He soldered an extended lead on the lead that I broke. I didn't do that because I thought the heat might ruin it. So anyway, what am I looking for in a TVS and where can I buy one. Dave.
 
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Gotcha Keoke, you jumped in there before I finished my hen peckin.
 

Keoke

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Gotcha Keoke, you jumped in there before I finished my hen peckin.

HI Any good electronic parts store should have the diode U know like Radio Shack etc--

Allied has it: AMfr's Part #: P6KE20CA-TP
Allied Stk #: 70055893

That black thing U were talking about sounded like a Capacitor. probably made in Mexico and remained unidentified-:glee:

Here is the one the Late Dave Russel and I agreed to use years ago.The Diode For the SU Fuel Punp is:1N540X the Band is the Plate { Pos Side}
 
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Here is a closer look at the black device that was attached to the fuel pump. I don't recognize the symbol on it. Any clues as to whether it is a diode, capacitor or other? Thanks, Dave.
 

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BigGreen

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Diode's look like these

Diode1.jpg Diode2.jpg

Yours looks like a capacitor

Capacitor.png
 
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