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Shut pillar placement bj8

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George_Haywood

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Hi all,
I'm new to BCF but I have an old problem. How does one go about getting the shut pillar in the correct position on new sills, rockers, and inner quarter panels? I'm concerned with getting the proper door gaps. I hope you know what I mean. The car is a '65 bj8. Thanks in advance for your help.

George
 
Hi George and welcome to the forum. I suggest you start by doing a search of previous posts as this subject has been discussed many times. Additionally, many who have completed this task will come along and explain their experiences.
 
George,take your time, I am just now finishing a door shut panel on my passenger side, even though I am working on a60 BT7,make sure your shrouds are on and inthe correct position,clamped down.fasten the front wings(fenders),fasten rear wings,position your rocker.do not weld in yet.fasten the the door,I realize each car can be different,in what you are doing.I did forget the shut panel,if you can slide it behind the rear fender clamp it down.go from there line up body lines.each step takes alot of patience and time,somebody here on the forum might have better ideas on what to do. Roger Moment, has an ongoing series of articles restoring these cars,in the AH,club USA, magazine, good luck and take your time you can do it.
Bob /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
 
Thanks Bob, My body man checked and measured and placed the sills, quarter panels, and rockers while lining everything up with panels and doors going on and off many times but had someone hold the shut pilar in place while tacking it. Everything looked good until after final welding and then the shut pillar door gap was too large (about 1/2"). He left it alone for a day or so to think, I suggested that he leave everything screwed and bolted to the fender, cut his welds on the gusset and brace behind the shut face pillar and just move things where he wanted to get good gaps, tack and see what happens. When I went over today the gap was very good (1/8"-3/16"). I can't believe he listened to me. He is a nice guy though but I know nothing about body work. He was real nervous when I left him on Friday and real happy when I left him today. He will have the driver's side done this afternoon and take out the braces, put it on the wheels and see what happens. If it doesn't close up he can start the removal of panels again, and suspension, stick it on the rotissarie (sp.), and get it ready for chassis cleaning and paint.
Hope this helps someone else at this stage of the job.

Thanks again,
George
 
I think you should talk with Greg also, it seems to me he had a recent thread about something changing when weight was put on the suspension, I'll PM him.
 
You didn't mention whether the engine and trans were in. Also, I'd make sure that either the windows and winding mechanisms were in the doors (they weigh about 15 lbs. per side), or that a suitable amount of weights were substituted. I know that some folks say that a solid frame will not flex, but unless your frame is new, then I wouldn't count on no flex.
 
Cutlass,

The engine/tranny are in for this part of the resto and we have added around 15# to the very end (away from the hinge)inside of the door. We haven't put it on the ground yet but there is still about 3/16" elevation at the back of the door for the frame flex that I expect. If it doesn't flex that much then we will have to make some adjustments to the hinges. My body man calls it "messaging" the metal. Our supports are under the rear axle and on the frame rail about at the front wheels. Hopefully this will let the frame flex as if it were on the wheels. Will let you know how it turns out.

George
 
Hi George,
I have a suggestion, albeit a tardy one. If the shut pillar has to be removed again, line up the shut pillar in the rear fender and drill 2 or 3 holes into shut pillar through the existing holes in the fender and screw them together. Then bolt the fender to the car and line everything up. When you have a good door-to-fender gap, the pillar can be tack welded while everything is still in place.
 
Thanks to all for the shut pilar suggestions. The job is done and on the ground and looks good. I removed the engine/tranny today and it is resting in my garage waiting to go to work after 33 years of resting. The engine has been rebuilt and the tranny is going next week for a check up and change of gaskets and seals and anything else that is needed. It was only driven 9 yrs. and stored in a garage since 1974 so I hope it will be a minor job.

Oh, for all those interested, when I pulled the engine and tranny out there was absolutely no change in the door gaps or the height of the door tops. I think that is :smile:atributable to the frame being sound. I was told by an equal number of experts to leave the engine and tranny in for sill replacement as I was told that it should not matter if it were not in for sill replacement. My take on it is get a good feel for your frame and if it is sturdy then the drive train can be removed for this procedure. However, if you leave it in then what you see is what you get after the job is done. Anyway I should get the car back in about 3-4 weeks painted and ready to put back together. This is getting very exciting.

Thanks again,
George
 
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