Running new fuel lines

[tdskip]

Hi folks. So the new TR6 has a block somewhere in the metal fuel line that I haven't been able to unplug. I've tried carb cleaner and air pressure without luck.

Am I OK to simply run new rubber fuel lines from the rear of the car to the front?

Thanks for the help!

 

[PeterK]

the purpose of steel line is for protection from leaks caused by road debris. use 5/16" steel brake line or "bundy tubing" and only use rubber on the ends for vibration isolation and connection to/from the fuel pump/gas tank.

... so my answer is no it is not OK as far as safety is concerned.

 

[71tr]

I had the same problem and simply bypassed my entire metal fuel line setup from tank to fuel pump by running new rubber fuel line. I just strapped it to the existing metal tubing and ran it thru the protected areas of the frame. In my opinion, metal tubing is factory original for longevity, rubber hose would likely provide adequate protection from typical road debris.

 

[Guest]

I really have to agree with PeterK here in that the fuel line should be steel tubing run through the frame channels. When you run that much rubber fuel line you are indeed increasing exponentially the chances of having a ruptured line and dangerous fuel leak. Changing out the original steel line is a pita but doable. The original line is held in place with metal clips that are pop-riveted into the frame. Sometimes you can salvage these clips, or just bypass them and make new securing clamps. The two locations of rubber in the fuel line are at the end and beginning and these should be about 8" long. Running the length of the car with rubber exposes it to not only debris but hot exhaust pipes, oil leaks and road hazards. The best quality rubber hose (Gates) specific for fuel will only be good for about one year before visible cracks show up. I usually change all rubber fuel lines every 18 months or less because of these cracks. I am meandering here and don't have the organizational skills of Alan M but really would like you to reconsider using rubber fuel lines down the frame. Just not safe, at all.
Have you considered trying to root out the line with a long piece of tach cable attached to a slow drill?
Bill

 

[Guest]

I agree with Peter and Bill 100%. There are saftey issues here that dictate the use of metal line whenever possible. When I hooked up my electric fuel pump I ran a new line under the front cross member to get to the carbs, didn't even think of using rubber line. Tubing benders are cheap and easy to use. Plus the factory run from the tank to the engine bay in these cars is pretty simple and straight forward so it's not all that difficult a job. I backed up over a big branch once in my Nova, it got caught in the undercarriage of the car, came up through the shifter boot and another piece bent the heck out of the metal fuel line, but it held and I was able to drive home after pushing it back up. If that had been rubber forget it, there'd have been gas all over the road.

 

[vettedog72]

I had the same problem because I left the car sit a year or so and the gas just turned into a crystallized rock in the fuel line. I don’t know how many feet the blockage ran but it seemed to be several feet! I could not find any gas additives that would dissolve or soften the “rock”. I used screwdrivers, ice pick, and coat hanger when the material was removed enough to get some “ram” room. I expected the blockage to soften as I picked away the surface; wrong for sure. The rock seemed to become more resistant as it went farther into the pipe. I can’t remember why I did not try to start the cleanup form the fuel pump end of the pipe, but I am sure I considered it. It appeared useless to continue the effort.

What I found as a solution was a little mod to the vent line, the one that runs parallel to the gas feed from the tank to the engine compartment. A little modification and I had a feed line connected from the gas tank to the fuel pump, in steel! The short fall is the vent pipe for the gas tank is no longer connected to the charcoal cylinder in the front of the engine compartment. The tank vent is just open to the air like a 1950’s car. I intend to run a rubber hose from the vent spout to assure there is no conflict with the hot muffler. On a more industrious day, I will replace that blocked line and reconnect the vent line. I have seen the gas lines for sale but don’t recall the cost. I advise you not to run a rubber hose the length of the steel gas feed line; it is too risky.

 

[tdskip]

Thanks folks - I really appreciate the coaching.

I'll take another shot at unblocking the existing steel fuel lines. If not I'll run a new parallel steel line.

Thanks again.

 

[davidk]

I've had success clearing steel lines with a section of large gauge 'weed eater' line. Good luck.