Right Blinker suddenly goes out

[ynotme2]

Questiosn for everyone. This ewvening as I was driving the right blinker goes out. The left is okay and working fine but the right is dead. If the bulb burns out in the front or the back will the whole circuit for the right blinker stop working? Or might there be a loose connection? Also if I have to replace the bulbs, where do I go? Can I go to an autozone or special order them? Also what is the type of bulb I should get if I can get them locally at the auto parts store or home depot like place. Any ideas would be greatly welcome.

Thanks

 

[Keoke]

What blinker are you refering to.Thae dash monitor or the outside side lamp???-Keoke

 

[Dave Russell]

[ QUOTE ]
This evening as I was driving the right blinker goes out. The left is okay and working fine but the right is dead. If the bulb burns out in the front or the back will the whole circuit for the right blinker stop working? Or might there be a loose connection? Also if I have to replace the bulbs, where do I go?
Thanks

[/ QUOTE ]
Usually if the front or rear goes out there is not enough current to make the flasher work on the remaining lamp. Bulbs are available at almost all auto supply stores. A standard # 1157 bulb will work in both front & rear. I personally use # 2357 bulbs in the rear because they are just a little brighter. I use the # 1157A bulbs in the front because I like the amber bulbs. They are all two element bulbs. Stop/turn & tail in the back, turn & running in the front. You can try cleaning the bulb contacts & wiring connectors first. If you have an older Healey, It is a real education to remove the lens. Working the chrome rim out of the rubber surround & getting it back in requires slowly working the rubber away from the rim as you go. There are other things that can go wrong with the turn signal relay, but try the easy part first.
D

 

[RVMAN]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gifI wasn't sure which model you had, so I had to cover the 100-6/3000's. Here are the LUCAS numbers. Autozone/Discount/Pep boys et.al. should be able to cross them to our numbers:"AUTOBOOK 726" series shows Stop/tail and Sidelamps to be all the same-(Lucas 594) "GLENN'S Austin tune-up guide shows LUCAS 380....or a USA type bulb numbered "1034"(this is for stop/tail/parking/and directional) Good luck.(P.S. the "flashing indicator unit" is a LUCAS FL.5, if it turns out your flasher is on the fritz...)

 

[RVMAN]

Go with what Dave said and use XX57 type bulbs. The info I gave you was from the older maintenance manuals.

 

[ynotme2]

Dave to the rescue again. Sorry I didn't mention it but I have a 65 BJ8. In need of some restoration..... LOL.... But love to drive it and learning the in and outs of the car. Thanks for you help everyone

 

[ynotme2]

Has anyone used those LED ones instead of the standard bulb. I saw them at Autozone and was wondering if they are brighter or longer lasting or what the deal was.

Thanks

Tony

 

[ynotme2]

Well now the real fun begins. I went to the front park turn lamp on the right side of the car. I unscrewed the lens cap, made note of bottom screw missing, and removed the lens cap. Everything was looking good. The gasket was harder then petrified wood. I removed it and notice the bulb was recessed intot the socket. I tried like the damnest to twist the lamp. I shot some wd-40 in there and then the bulb started to come out. As I wiggled the bulb left to right and up and down. The bulb cam out but it looks like if contact had corroded onto the back of the bulb. After wiggling them some more the bulb cam loose and away. But it looks like 2 exposed wires. So I figured that I will order a new bulb base for the front. But now I am confused. I have a 1965 BJ8. I am looking at the Vicki British Catelogue on page 88 on the fall edition. I am not sure which to order? A bayonet base, item 14-971 or a screw base, item 14-972, or a screw base "claw type", item 14-973? I think I want the screw base type but unsure? Any ideas? Also how do I attach? Do I solder it to the base? Or as I see in the Moss Motors catelogue there is a bulb contact kit. I would assume that would be the better way to go?



Thanks

Tony

 

[Bugeye58]

Tony, you can get the contact repair kit at your local NAPA or Auto Zone for less than 3 bucks. If you do order a new base, you want the bayonet style. Solder and shrink wrap the wires together.
Jeff

 

[ynotme2]

You the man. Thanks. I will go down to NAPA tomorrow. Just down the street

 

[Bugeye58]

Tony, I've used several of the contact kits from NAPA. They come with the fiber washer, the two contacts and wire pigtails, as well as the spring. And, you don't have to wait for the big brown truck to show up before you are on the road again!
Jeff

 

[Bugeye58]

Tony, the part number is NAPA/Echlin LS 6228.
Jeff

 

[ynotme2]

Well i got the new pig tales as they called them. I will solder them on but...is there a direction the 2 brass nipples have to be in. Are the supposed to by in the 9 and 3 postion or the 12 and 6 position? Or does it not matter?

Thanks

Tony

 

[Bugeye58]

Tony, isn't there a little slot in the fiber washer that lines up with a bump in the socket? I can't remember which way they are oriented, but I'm pretty sure there is an orientation slot in the thing.
Yes, it does make a difference, as they have to be in the correct placement when the bulb is rotated into position, or it won't make proper contact.
Jeff

 

[Dave Russell]

[ QUOTE ]
I shot some wd-40 in there and then the bulb started to come out. As I wiggled the bulb left to right and up and down. The bulb cam out but it looks like if contact had corroded onto the back of the bulb. After wiggling them some more the bulb cam loose and away. But it looks like 2 exposed wires. So I figured that I will order a new bulb base for the front. unsure? Any ideas? Also how do I attach? Do I solder it to the base? Or as I see in the Moss Motors catelogue there is a bulb contact kit. I would assume that would be the better way to go?
Thanks
Tony

[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Tony,
If I read you correctly, it sounds like the brass bulb base has separated from the glass bulb & is still stuck in the socket. I'm not exactly clear on which part separated. The glass, the brass base with it's contacts & bayonet pins are all part of the bulb itself. If only the glass bulb with it's two bare wires has come out, the brass base is still stuck in the socket. You can sometimes work the base out of the socket by jamming a piece of rubber hose into the lamp base & using it as a handle to work the base out of the socket. If things are really stuck you will need to replace the socket assembly. The contact kit alone will not help.

From your description, (lens cap screws) it sounds like you have a later model BJ8 which uses a different "bulb holder & lamp body" than the earlier cars. Probably with separate turn signal lamps.The change was made at car number C26705 & up. If so, the previous advice about bulb numbers etc. is not correct & you will need a single element bulb. Check out this Moss catalog page & see if you can figure out what you need.
https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28938
If necessary, you can get the whole new lamp assembly.

If the lamp base is NOT stuck in the socket, follow Jeff's advice.
D

 

[ynotme2]

Thanks guys. I will look at it closely. I have a single lens 65 car. Not the double lens front of the last seriers. The bulb and base came out all together but not that I tihnk about it, there was no spring. It was tough to get it out and the bulb seemed to have welded itself to the contact opints. I will have to look for the slot to see how to orientate it. Can I ask how the base plate attaches to the car itself? I assume that there are 2 nuts from behind the body, in the wheel well, that hold the base plate in against the body? If the bulbs were not the cause does the flasher units go out much in the cars?

Thanks

Tony

 

[Keoke]

Tony, the base plate is attached by two studs with nuts on the rear. Your problem sounds like water has gotten in side the lamp and either frozen the spring or rust has caused it to fail. The socket will require a very good clean up. and the new parts should slide freely in the lamp socket bore after being installed. To my Knowledge flasher failures are not a problem. In addition to the spring and contact assy you will require a new lens seating washer I suggest you use two of them-FWIW---Keoke

 

[Keoke]

Tony, Here are the parts required to repair the lamp assy as a worst case; Lens Clear $10.75 Bulb Twin filament $1.oo Gask Lens seating $1.95 Pad Lamp-to-Body $2.00 Bulb Contact Kit $8.85 total cost Less than $25.00-FWIW---Keoke

 

[ynotme2]

And so the saga continues. I bought the part and took the base plate off to make sure that the hole was clear and the base of the bulb was still not in the base plate. I take the base plate off and the whole back side is corroded off. Gone. So I go down to the NAPA auto store and they say they have a bucket that would go on the back of the base plate. It goes through the plate and then it looks like there are flanges that get bent down to hold it in the base plate. Around 5.00 and change. Does this sound right? It has two wire connectors off the back of it. Any ideas folks? Thanks

 

[Bugeye58]

Those "flanges" are actually spring fingers that hold the socket in place. If the hole in the lamp is the right size for the replacement socket, it should work. You may want to run a bead of silicone around the back side to seal it after you get it in.
Jeff