Resource for Steering Pinch Nut?

[Aldwyn]

I have discovered that the pinch nut on my steering column is cracked. (Item #2 in the Bentley's manual, page 361)

None of the big three have it, and only moss lists it as all (but showing not available).

Anyone know where I can get one?

And should I drive the car if mine is cracked? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Thanks,
Aldwyn

 

[DougF]

I don't have my Bentley manual available now, I am looking at my BL Manual. Are you referring to the nyloc nut used to pinch the steering column adapter?
If so, these can be purchased at almost any hardware store.
You will need Grade 5, it is either 1/4-28 or 5/16-24. Take your sample with you to match.
If again this is the nut I am referring to, I would hold off on driving the car until it is replaced. It's not worth losing your steering at 65 mph over a $.50 locknut.

 

[Guest]

Dumb question. Just what exactly are you referring to? The actual clamping mechanism that squeezes over the upper steering column and has two bolt holes in it with which to bolt to the rubber knuckle actually has a "crack" in it where it squeezes together. If there is a crack elsewhere in this assembly, pitch it and resource another. You may have to check with one of the smaller vendors that have access to recycled parts. Doubt this part is available new. Have you tried Rimmer Bros.?

 

[prb51]

'Triumphs Only' breaks TR's and has used parts too.

 

[Aldwyn]

Taking a lesson from Dale, here are some photos:

The first giving a perspective of what we're looking at, and the second pic showing the crack on the unit.

Thanks!
Aldwyn

 

[BritBox]

Hi Aldwyn,

We're talking about the yoke-like fitting, right? I don't think yours is cracked. There is a "split" in the fitting to allow it to spread apart and let the splined shaft thorugh. I've had to pry it slightly with a screwdriver and then restore clamping pressure with the bolt and nyloc nut.

Yours looks different than the one on my TR250, but I would look at it closer to be sure if it's cracked or not. Hopefully, someone else will weigh in on this.

I'm back to cooking dinner. Good luck.

 

[Aldwyn]

It doesn't look uniform, though, as I would think it would look coming from the factory. It looks more like a stress fracture, but I could be wrong.

 

[BritBox]

Hi Aldwyn,

I found two different yokes out in my parts stash, one of which is exactly like yours. It looks irregular until you look at it from just the right angle--that's what happens when a cut is made diagonally into a compound curve. It's actually cut straight.

I took some pictures of the yokes, but my camera and computer are not talking to each other today, must be the holiday. Sorry I can't upload them.

If you had the yoke in your hand, you'd be able to see what I am trying to describe. Maybe if you slowly turn the steering wheel and look closely you will see it.

Hope this helps,

 

[YankeeTR]

I believe that BritBox is correct..it IS made that way...after all it IS a clamp and , for it to clamp, it has to have a gap.

I can see how it is confusing...but, if you turn the wheel and get another look, you'll see...

 

[Aldwyn]

Excellent!! Thanks gents!

 

[YankeeTR]

Now I hope we're RIGHT!?!?!?! hahaha

 

[TRMark]

I would take a real good look at your flex couplings. Looks like they have not been replaced in recent years or ever. Mine looked like that on my TR4 when I took them off they were worse than I thought, shouldn't have been driving the car.

 

[Bugeye58]

Why don't you just take it off, and see if the split line is a machined surface, or a fracture?
Jeff

 

[DNK]

Might as well replace it. It is SO Much fun installing the new one

 

[Aldwyn]

DNK, I detect sarcasm. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I may clean it up a bit, and move the wheel to see what she looks like.

Now... what's a flex coupling? Searing for it on TRF and Moss brings up nothing!

 

[DNK]

The flex couple was what I was funning about. It's the rubber thingy.

 

[TRMark]

Sorry, its referred to as flexible coupling. You can find the diagram of the steering in the Moss catalog. The part you have been concerned about a crack is called an adapter. The flexible couplings are not difficult to replace. It is bigger hassle to get the adapters off the splined shaft. The flex has a larger bolt pattern than the adapter. You have to squeeze the flex coupling in a vise so holes fit the adapter. Don't know if you can replace it without removing the adapters, but you can bet someone around here does. The TR4 has two flex's, looks like the 6 has only one.

 

[Guest]

In my quest to spend as much money as I possibly could to replace near every part on my TR6 (or so it seemed), I tried for two days to replace the flexible coupling on my steering. Finally gave up when I determined the new "rubber thingy" ( I like that description ) was larger than the old one. Maybe that insert about the vice above was the answer, make it smaller by compression. TRF swore they sent me the correct one. I determined my old one was fine. ( It had actually been changed a few years before I adopted the car. )

The "crack" indeed is normal for the pinch fitting. Notice how it follows the design of the fitting, keeping the bulk of the metal away from the crack, if that makes sense.

 

[Aldwyn]

Arrrgh! It's easy AND extremely difficult?

Maybe I will just leave it alone. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

My main fear was the "crack" and since that fear has been alleviated, perhaps I should just leave well enough alone, and get back to the processes of fixin' what's broke, modernizing the car, and detailing the engine!

Coming up... breaks (fluid is dark brown, starting to feel pulses in breaking), sping on oil conversion, installing a modern stereo (cutting the center console), and depending on what is going on with my voltage issue... replacing the alternator.

Thanks again for the help, folks! It's greatly appreciated!

 

[swift6]

Installing the flexible couple is very easy once you know the trick. You can compress the coupling in the car using large slip jaw pliers or a large hose clamp. The flexible coupling is supposed to be in tension when installed.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif