Replacing clutch / flywheel procedure

[R_Lyle]

Is there a document on replacing the clutch/flywheel on a TR6? I have the transmission out of the car and I am about to remove the old clutch and change the flywheel (damaged teeth). I am trying to find documents on proper procedures to replace the clutch and flywheel so I don't have to do this twice. I have the Gunst throw-out bearing with the Sachs and Luk pressure plate from BP Northwest.

 

[Guest]

Rob, you say change the flywheel because of damaged teeth. You do know that for about 40 bucks you can get a brand new ring gear for your flywheel. A new flywheel is some serious money.
I have a new ring gear sitting on my desk, waiting to be changed out. That's just point one. Do you have a Bentley manual. This is the bible for the TR6 and will show you everything you need to know. Well, almost everything. Mr. Gunst isn't mentioned in the bible.

What exactly do you need to know?


Bill

 

[Brosky]

Please post the results of the Gunst installation. I'm about to remove my third Gunst, but they were all installed with Borg & Beck pressure plates, so I hope that you have better luck than I did.

For the record, mine (all three) squeals constantly unless I apply pressure to the pedal of about 1/4 to 1/3 pedal.

 

[R_Lyle]

I do have a manual but it's the Haynes. A friend of mine (LastDeadLast) has a TR6 with the same clutch setup that I'm installing (Gunst bearing, Sach pressure plate, and not sure who makes the clutch plate) and the pedal pressure is very light and the release is very consistent (no slipping or lurching). I have an aluminum flywheel from this same person so I figured I might as well install it rather then change the ring gear. What I need to know: how do I remove the four bolts holding the flywheel (impact wrench)? How do I remove the big bolt at the back end of the transmission (impact wrench)? I want to change all of the seals on the transmission: rear, front, gasket on the top cover, gasket on tail piece (contains the layshaft), and those three rubber seals on the shift linkage. Also the rear main seal on motor. Did I miss anything?

 

[trboost]

You can use an impact wrench ( air or electric ) to remove the flywheel and trans bolts. I made up a simple metal stop to jam the flywheel ring gear to stop it from turning. It uses one of the rear engine plate holes & locks in to the teeth. You will need this for reasembly.
You will like the aluminum flywheel. Make sure your stock pilot bushing fits & remember to lightly grease it.

 

[R_Lyle]

Did you use the spring that comes with the Gunst bearing? My friend (LastDeadLast) uses a Gunst bearing with the LUK pressure plate and disk and the pedal pressure is rather light and releasing the clutch is very even. Mine is going to be a Gunst bearing with a Sach pressure plate and Borg & Beck disk. The clutch I pulled out of the car was the original Laycock. Not sure what to do with that one.

 

[71tr]

The original laycock pressure plates are valuable. There is a mystique associated with them in various clutch write-ups. Seen them go on ebay for $100-$300.

 

[Brosky]

Yes and I have TWO HD springs on the current setup. It seems that the Gunst just doesn't work well with Borg & Beck pressure plates. The bearing will not turn with the PP until an inordinate amount of pressure is applied. Others seem to be OK.

Make sure that you read the instructions about the blocks with the "red dots" positioned properly in the sleeve and that you have the two alignment dowel pins in the proper position in the back of the engine block.

I know the setup blind folded and every inch of the install has been covered in mine not once, but three times. Mr. Gunst and I have had several emails go back and forth between RI and Germany.

Joachim Gunst recommends a Luk pressure plate to be used with his bearing and nothing else. Take my word for it, because my transmission will be out for the forth time this fall as proof that it will not work with the B&B pressure plate.

Also read the June edition of the British Marque newspaper where my car was the subject of a 2 hour tech session at a monthly British Motor Cars of New England club meeting. Many LBC owners and several well known area technicians witnessed the problems first hand.

 

[R_Lyle]

That's good information. I have driven another car with the Gunst bearing and the LUK pressure plate and I liked it very much (as noted above). Now I'm wondering if I should send mine back and get the LUK setup instead. I also have instructions for the Gunst bearing but I did not receive the springs so I was going to try to get them from TRF.

 

[gjh2007]

Some info for your research, I have no 1st hand experience at this point, last clutch I did in a TR was in my 1st 250 back in '78. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

https://www.mntriumphs.org/Tech_Info/Clutch%20Folder/clutch.pdf

 

[R_Lyle]

Is there another company that sells the Gunst bearing other then TRF? The Gunst bearing I have does not have the pins or the springs. Or is it possible to buy just those parts?

 

[Brosky]

Your Gunst bearing, if it's an original Gunst, should have the springs, alignment pins and trunnion blocks with the red dots. If not , I would be very leary of installing it. There are knock-offs out there that are not made by Gunst in Germany and may not be of the same quality.

Keep trying to find them and I'll look to see if I have any left over. I don't think I do though.

And the trunnion block red dots must face the contact surface of the bearing (pressure plate) side of the sleeve.

 

[R_Lyle]

Thanks I have the instruction manual for the Gunst bearing but I don't have the Dowel Pins or the Trunion Blocks, etc. Instructions are a little confusing so once I get the parts I will probably ask some more questions.