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TR6 Removing TR6 dash [and suggestions on refinish]

sammyb

Luke Skywalker
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Somehow I had no problem removing a TR-250 dash in the 1990s when I had no mechanical or tool experience, but now my '74 TR6 dash is being a pain. I've removed all the screws, the rheostat knob, the rocker switches, the retaining nuts on the washer pump and hazard switch...it still seems to be stuck between the gauges and steering column area. Not a ton of light in my garage so with a drop light, so I tend to miss small details (I need bifocals!) -- which means it might be something obvious to someone with better eyesight. Any ideas?

The dash is teak veneer with seemingly no varnish. There is some white staining on a section on and around the glovebox door. Any suggestions on how to best (and path of least resistance) restore the satin teak appearance?

Thanks,
Sam
 

poolboy

Yoda
Country flag
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If you have not yet removed the speedo and the tach, you'll have to..or at least the cables and the clamps.
 

Gliderman8

Yoda
Gold
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I completely striped the dash by sanding down to the plywood, then I bought a piece of walnut veneer and made a compression jig to adhere it. Then, lots of polyurethane and steel wool and finish
by polishing with rotten stone.
TR6 dash 001c.jpg
 

tomshobby

Yoda
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To remove the tach and speedo remove the round knurled nuts and clamps that hold the tach to the dash. Then remove the tach cable at the dizzy. Next pull the tach out from the dash and remove the cable at the tach. With the tach removed you will have a nice hole to access the rear of the speedo and with relative ease be able to disconnect the cable and remove the nuts and clamps. Assemble in reverse order.
 
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S

sammyb

Luke Skywalker
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Okay, so unlike the TR-250, you have to remove the gauges for it to pop out. (Of course, that was 15 years ago, so my memory could be fuzzy.) I already loosened the nuts and removed the tach cable and speedo cable, so I'll just complete the removal of the clamps.

Thanks guys.
 

croz

Senior Member
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I tidied my '74 TR6 dash up by removing it then smoothing/cleaning the surface with fine steel wool. For the finish I applied 5 or 6 rag coats of Danish Tung Oil. It sets up hard yet porous enough for touch up coats to soak in. The surface is more of a luster than a gloss. This method preserves the original finish and slightly deepens the color. Looks good.
 

DNK

Great Pumpkin
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Sammy- I helped a friend in the Covington (?) area buy some Koa for his dash and then the car was totaled.
He might still have that dash if you are interested
 
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sammyb

Luke Skywalker
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Don, I don't want to go through the hassle of relaminating it if I don't have to.

Croz-- Danish Tung Oil is a bad name for dyslexics who read it as Tanish Dung Oil
 

DNK

Great Pumpkin
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Sammy- Dash has been done
So you would be swapping dashes.
Course, don't remember his year
 

HerronScott

Darth Vader
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Okay, so unlike the TR-250, you have to remove the gauges for it to pop out. (Of course, that was 15 years ago, so my memory could be fuzzy.)

Sam,

You should have to remove the speedometer and tachometer on any TR4, 4A, 250 or 6 to remove the wooden dash.

Scott
 

poolboy

Yoda
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Those 2 gauges are supposed to be clamped AND grounded to the steel dash and as long as they are clamped to the steel dash they ain't coming out and until they come out, it's just like Scott said..
 

glemon

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When I refinished mine, which was in horrible shape, I simply chipped the old flaking varnish or shellac finish off, I used a heat gun on the stubborn parts, then I used an old "Homer Formby's Wood Refinishing Kit" that had some wood cleaner and conditioner, then I very lightly sanded, then I finished with gloss polyurethane, because of age I guess it turned out much darker than the original just with the poly finish. Was very pleased with the results and has held up well for about 3 years now.
 
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