TR2/3/3A Removal of Steering Box Worm Gear In Car TR3A

[Got_All_4]

I have a 1960 TR3A that I plan to replace the worn gear box and have a spare. To possibly save some time is it possible to remove the worm gear without removing the steering box? It is a split shaft so it seems in my head and I haven't studied it yet that one should be able to split the shaft, pull the control box tube out remove the top or bottom bolt of the steering box mounts. Then tip it forward after removing the steering link and the top cap. Then after removing the front bolts on the cover it should slid out. What do you think?

 

[Twosheds]

I don't think the rocker shaft will raise high enough for the conical pin to clear the worm to allow the worm to be withdrawn. The drop arm on the splined rocker arm would prevent the rocker raising. You might be able to finagle the rocker shaft up high enough with the top cover removed but I doubt it. I think it would be easier to just go ahead and remove the steering unit, but I've been wrong once today already!

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha,

I think it can be done since you have a split shaft steering column. The top cover plate and front cover plate will need to be removed from the steering box. The pitman arm will need to be disconnected the steering. By pushing up on the pitman arm, the peg should clear the worm and allow you to withdraw the worm and lower shaft from the front of the box.

However, since you have it all apart you may want to replace the peg and inspect/replace the bearings as necessary. Since you will be installing a different worm and shaft you may also need to add/remove shims at the front of the box. These things are probably easier to do on the bench.

 

[TR3driver]

I have a 1960 TR3A that I plan to replace the worn gear box and have a spare. To possibly save some time is it possible to remove the worm gear without removing the steering box?

I'm a little confused here ... are you replacing the box or just the gear ?

Either way, IMO you should remove the box from the car with the gear still inside it. Which, fortunately, is possible without removing the front apron (since you have a later split-column car). On my 59, I took both motor mounts loose to get clearance to move the lower steering tube out of it's mount to the suspension tower, but I think it's only necessary to loosen the LH mount. Otherwise, it was a straight-forward job.

Adjusting the box is best done on the bench, IMO. I consider myself pretty good at 'feeling' clearances and such, but my best efforts were off by .004". Which doesn't sound like much, but can translate to a fair amount of play (or binding, depending on which way the error goes). Don't forget to back off the peg before setting the end float; then set the peg so you can just barely feel the tightness as the clearance goes to zero. Should be on-center if you replace the worm, but I reused my old one which got tight off to one side.