Remote/Central Door Locking

[GT6_Mark]

Does anyone have experience with installing/using a remote/central door locking kit?

Kits, including remotes, seem to vary between $35 and $135. Any idea if you get more for paying more?

As well as the door functions, I am interested to know if anyone has used one of these kits to add an immobilizer. My thought process goes like this: Even if locked, getting into a LBC is a piece of cake, but getting past an immobilizer circuit may just confound the casual "joy" rider.

Any thoughts?

 

[hondo402000]

My MSD unit has the capability to imobilize the ignition but I have not done it

 

[DNK]

I have my fuel pump switched and the roll over switch under the dash I can use

 

[TR674]

Mark
there seem to be a number of door locking kits available, I will be fitting one when spare time becomes available!
As far as immobilisers go, I have been advised to steer clear. It is just one more electrical thing to go wrong on an already dodgy electrical system. Most of my friends with classic cars have installed an ignition isolating switch, hidden under the dash somewhere.
Most thieves/joyriders want to spend minimal time hot wiring a car. If there is a hindrance they will leave it and move onto an easier target.
Unfortunately, organised criminals who specifically want your type of car will take it away on a trailer........
Just my 2 cents worth.
My TR6 is an immobiliser in itself. If you can start it within 5 minutes you are doing well, and probably deserve to take it for a drive.
Regards
Craig

 

[GT6_Mark]

The under dash switch to interrupt the ignition circuit makes a lot of sense. I’ve done this in the past. I’m just getting lazy and forgetful with age and the idea of something working in conjunction with remote door locking has more appeal that in would have done in years past.

My GT6 has a Petronix ignition system and I think we all know these can suffer if energized for periods without the engine turning over. Therefore, a toggle switch in the positive feed would make a lot of sense as I could use it to isolate the ignitor should I want to have the other circuits live for any reason, such as fault finding. I’ll do this as a minimum.

As an aside, I have been pulling out all the “upgrades” that a previous owner to the previous owner made to my recently acquired TVR. The previous owner had just gone in and cut wires. As well as the alarm that had tentacles everywhere, I’ve found two ignition interrupter toggle switches under the dash. My guess is that I now have 50% less wiring and still some to go before I’m back to the factory original. Then it will be my time to play, but all in the name of reliability you know....

I’m also going to see if I can get a look at one of the cheap locking systems. At $35 or so including remotes they seem too good to be true. If I’m halfway convinced they have merit, I’ll take the plunge and see how I get on with one. Even if they fail in service, the OEM security on my GT6 and TVR is not exactly a challenge to beat.

 

[Number_6]

I had a simple immobilizer when I had my GT6 when I parked it someplace and wanted to immobolize it. I just took the rotor out of the distributor. Took about 15 seconds and I figured the car isn't going anyplace without it and it'd be unlikely anybody would happen to be carrying around a rotor for a '73 GT6 in their pocket.

 

[Guest]

I have a battery isolator and a fuel cutoff. I don't use either.
The car's so distinctive that the only way it's getting stolen is on a flatbed, and there's not much I can do about that.

 

[tomshobby]

When we travel with out TR6 we leave the top down and lock the trunk and glove box unless we are at our overnight place. Then we put up the top in case it might rain and leave the doors unlocked. Figure it might save the top from being cut open.