rear suspension squeaks

[blumagnet]

I have squeaking rear suspension on my 1960 bugeye, especially on the drivers' side. Trying to listen for the source from under the car, I am suspecting the radius arm and spring end bushings need replacement. I see Prothane bushings (which seem to work well on my sway bars) and spring pads available for other model years, but have been unable to find any for the 1/4 elliptic. Can anyone offer advice for a cross reference, or do the standard rubber bushings seem to do the trick?

2 finger test OK & the sound seems to be from the bushing areas rather than the shocks...

Thanks,

blumagnet

 

[lbcfan]

I had very bad squeaking from the rear of my bugeye. I disassembled and rebuilt the springs and replaced the spring bushings, but I did not touch the radius arm bushings. I no longer get any squeaks.

It might be easy to remove the radius arm and see if the squeaking stops as you push up and down on the rear.

If it is the springs, there are rolls of preformed poly-something strips that can be placed between the leaves. They have a u-shape that is supposed to keep them in place. I chose to use a graphite spray coating called Slip Plate between the leaves to allow them to slide past one-another, and paint only at the edges and outside surfaces.

So far so good.

best of luck.

Michael

 

[AN5Sprite]

I can't speak to the use of poly bushings in the radius arms. I've read elsewhere that they are a bad idea and will likely cause cracks to the radius arms. No personal experience here but it makes sense to me.

I do have experience with squeaking springs. My solution:

1. jack car, remove rear wheels.
2. brush/vac all sand/dirt/crud away
3. hose the springs etc down with Marvel Mystery Oil

I use an old squirt can with a flexible metal tip that can be bent around and put cardboard under the springs to absorb the runoff. I really soak 'em and then do it again, let sit for a couple of hours, then soak up the excess with a rag. Replace wheels and drive squeak-free.

Works for me.

 

[bugedd]

My 1/4 springs squeaked bad on mine. I disassembled them, blasted them, POR 15, and a thin layer of grease between the leafs, and its quiet as can be

 

[Rut]

I use Slip Plate as well and since its dry it doesn't collect dirt and grit like grease or oil. I wire brushed/sand blasted the leaves, painted them with chassis black mostly along the edges and sprayed the Slip Plate between the leaves. It looks good and should last for a while.
Rut

 

[blumagnet]

Thanks for the input. Is it the general consensus that spring removal is prudent? If there is a way to clean & lubricate the springs while they are in place, that sounds way easier than taking everything apart. I have the flexible tip squirt gun and cardboard & rags. I will start with the spring end bushings and lubricating, but am not sure if I should remove the springs to lubricate.
Just trying to plan for disassembling and which bushings to have on hand.
If I was going to the trouble to remove the radius arms, I think I would just replace the bushings while I'm in there....

Appreciate the guidance,

blumagnet
1960 bugeye with 1275
12CJ/DA/H 40708

 

[Rut]

I don't know if this will work, but you can jack up your car and let the rear axle hang, possibly loosen or remove the 2 rear bands and spray the Slip Plate between the leaves. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Rut

 

[bugedd]

There is no way to do it with the springs on the car. I tried taking them out, laying them on their side, and hosing them down with lube with the hope that it would penetrate and shut them up. I put them back on the car, and a massive waste of time. Do it once, do it right.

 

[AN5Sprite]

Take them out if they are broke, take, take them out if you are rebuilding them. Otherwise, It's crazy overkill to take the springs out to stop them from squeaking. Light oil, like MMO is not going to attract or hold excessive dirt and, given time and use it will fully penetrate b/t leaves. My way is simple, effective and will help in the long run should you decide to disassemble. To each his own though.

 

[lbcfan]

Blue-

taking out the springs is not as bad as it seems. The hard part is cleaning 30 leaves both sides. I did one spring set with a rotating wire brush, and sent the second one to be sandblasted.

You may also want to grind out the ridges that had formed where the shorter leaves gouge the longer leaves.

It's also a good opportunity to check the pockets where the springs mount, but if you have a restored body that won't be an issue. Mine hadn't seen the light of day since 1960, and they were ready for some clean-up and paint.

You may also ruin the bolts that hold the U-brackets. I couldn't find the right replacement stove bolt, so I used rod and acorn nuts.

 

[bugedd]

The springs come out pretty easily. Getting the bolts to line up with the spring plate when installing them can be a bit of a chore, but thats about it. if you have access to a sandblaster like I do, it's a relatively easy job. Just time consuming. But eventually you will want to do this, so might as well get it over with. I've had mine out at least 6 times for trying different springs, trying half-*%& ways to get rid of squeaks, its not hard to do. Definitely replace the bolts and run a tap through the spring plate threads, that will make life easier.

 

[AN5Sprite]

The springs come out pretty easily. Getting the bolts to line up with the spring plate when installing them can be a bit of a chore, but thats about it. if you have access to a sandblaster like I do, it's a relatively easy job. Just time consuming. But eventually you will want to do this, so might as well get it over with. I've had mine out at least 6 times for trying different springs, trying half-*%& ways to get rid of squeaks, its not hard to do. Definitely replace the bolts and run a tap through the spring plate threads, that will make life easier.

Really? All that to cure a squeak on one side that he thinks is in a radius arm bushing? :thumbsup:

 

[bugedd]

Again, do it once and do it right. My radius arms were shot to heck, and made no noise. I don't do things half ass. Again, I do things right.

 

[AN5Sprite]

Again, do it once and do it right. My radius arms were shot to heck, and made no noise. I don't do things half ass. Again, I do things right.

The point you're missing is this: It's not about <span style="font-weight: bold">you</span>. Non of us know anything about the condition of the car or the mechanical aptitude of the person who started the thread. It's ridiculous to encourage someone in this situation to dismantle a substantial amount of car when a squirt from an oil can may suffice.

Simple before complicated. Nothing half ass about that.

 

[blumagnet]

Whew! I feel like I just cracked a nut loose (or my knuckle) just reading. Many thanks to all for sharing valuable experience & wisdom.
I'll do my best to use these insights and take it to task as required .
I will order bushings & try the simple approach first, then post the results...

 

[blumagnet]

I'm in there applying lubricant & replacing the rebound straps and rubber bumpers. It appears the squeaking problem may be due to a broken U-bolt at the small end of the springs near the bushing; one nut is sheared off near the bushing end & no threads left on that side. Don't see this small U-bolt available at Moss or Victoria, only the large one - any ideas? Also, can anyone offer advice on the spring eye bushing removal? I can't seem to get them out despite lubricating & pounding a round chisel in the center; I'm afraid I may break something if I pound too hard. They don't even look that bad now that I can see them....

 

[nomad]

Hydraulic press. If no luck getting the whole bushing out just push the rubber out then use a hacksaw to cut thru the outer sleeve. Once cut it should be a piece of cake!

Kurt.

 

[lbcfan]

Blue-

There are a lot of leaf spring sources on the web. I had a broken rebound clamp that was welded to the leaf. I wound up buying another spring. Since the one you need is not welded to the leaf you should be able to find a match on one of those sites.

Good luck.

Michael

 

[blumagnet]

It seems I have dodged a bullet, a least for now, by using the advice in this thread. I never was able to get the leaf spring bushings out with the leaves still on the car, but took advantage of the opportunity while the tension was off the eye bolts to do some lubricating. While the car was jacked up with the springs hanging loose, I pried the leaves apart with a screwdriver and ran lubricant between them (the flexible tip oil can fit right in there) and let it run down. I did this several times yesterday and today in between my sessions pounding on those bushings.

I gave up on the bushings this afternoon. I figured I would rather have a squeaky car that runs. I needed a second jack to line up the springs to the bolt holes, but it is is back together now and completely silent! I know what to expect now when I am ready to remove the springs to do the bushings and suggested services above. My next quest is finding that U-bolt. Thank you to everyone for helping me through this journey with the great suggestions!