Rear engine plate split in two!

[AdamPP]

I got my engine on my new engine stand. I attached it too the stand using three bolts. As I turned the engine to get acces to the oil pan the WHOLE backing plate on the rear engine split right in the middle dropping the engine onto the oil pan below throwing oil everywhere and finally rolling too a stop!
The previous owner had used epoxy to repair a break in the plate. The epoxy was well hidden so I didn't catch it when putting it on the engine stand. My question is will a 1098 backing plate work on 1275 engine?
Regards,
Adam

[ 04-17-2004: Message edited by: AdamPP ]</p>

 

[piman]

Hello Adam,
no I don't think it will nor is it easy to modify. The oil pump on the 1275 is larger so fouls the 1098 back plate.
Isn't your 1275 back plate steel, so it could be welded?

Alec

 

[ThomP]

Engine plates match the transmission and clutch assembly. If the donor 1098 had/has the same clutch and transmission setup as the 1275, it will work. A series engine plates are notorious for breaking. Good ones are often offered on ebay for little money ~$20.00. If you are patient, you should be able to acquire a good used one there, or, perhaps, someone here has one you can have/purchase.

Here's an ebay link to a high performance unit that mentions the breakage problem:


Aluminum plate

I'm not suggesting buying this, it's a lot of money and steel ones are available.

I'm glad there were no broken bones involved in your discovery. Good luck with the remainder of the rebuild.

 

[piman]

Hello Adam,
If you want to take Thomp's advice, go ahead but I suggest that you atleast compare the 1098 before buying one, I repeat that the 1275 oil pump is physically larger.

Alec

 

[ThomP]

A quore from Vizard:" Because of the difference in block length between a small bore and big bore engine, it was necessary to take the oil pump drive shaft out of the "S" pump and replace it with a drive shaft from a small bore pump." My point here is that yes, piman, you are technically correct, the pumps are a different size, but so are the engine blocks. As Mr. Vizzard alludes to in this quote and makes clear elsewhere in the text, the only real difference is size is the driveshaft length.

Adampp did not mention changing oil pumps or we could discuss whether he needs a spacer plate or not for the oil pump. Adampp asked about engine plates. I do not know if 1098 Sprites, Morris Minors or A40s for that matter, came with the ribcase transmission, if they did, the plate will fit the 1275.

Piman is absolutely correct in that you should use the old engine plate as a reference or "pattern" to check the replacement against.

 

[piman]

Hello all,
the simple point I'm trying to make is that the hole in the 1098 is too small to go over the 1275 oil pump.

Alec

 

[AdamPP]

Thanks for all the help. I should do just the obvious and compare the two plates. I believe the plates are cast iron by the way. I had a concern with the aluminum backing plate as well. Won't the cast iron block react with the aluminum through electrolysis and fuse the two together. Hmmm, that might be an interesting way to stop oil leaks...

 

[piman]

Hello Adam,
don't forget that the water pump is aluminium, although I suppose it is seperated by a gasket.
Aluminium does react with steel but normally needs some moisture to act as an electrolyte.
See the corrosion to aluminium on aluminium clad steel framed cars.

Alec

 

[ThomP]

I thought this might interest AdamPP

Engine Plate

 

[AdamPP]

Yes, that is interesting! I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks for the link!
Regards,
Adam