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Rear Axle leaking from oil seal dust cover

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AUSMHLY

AUSMHLY

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Seems my rear axle is now leaking from the oil seal dust cover.

I fear that some of the bead blast dust may have soaked into the oil there.

What needs to be done, to stop the small drips. And look into if any damage has been done by possible bead blast dust.

Remove 4 bolts from the propeller shaft flange. Then the nut and lock washer on the inside of the flange.

Remove and clean the oil seal dust cover and oil seal? Or replace one or both units?

What are the steps I need to take and about how long would this repair take? New parts from Moss ok?

Cheers, Roger
 
Hi Roger. A leak at this point can not be helped with cleaning. The seal will require replacement.The torque on the pinion shaft nut is 140 FT LBS. Time to fix shouldn't be more than a couple of hours.---Fwiw---Keoke
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hi Roger. A leak at this point can not be helped with cleaning. The seal will require replacement.The torque on the pinion shaft nut is 140 FT LBS. Time to fix shouldn't be more than a couple of hours.---Fwiw---Keoke

[/ QUOTE ] - unless of course you make your own wrench! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
"Unless you make you own wrench"!-No 7777; Roger ain't been eaten non of them Monkey Brains and he went out and purchased he self a proper set of tools'---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
I'm thinking the same thing since the car is with out a drive train the this moment. Could it be that it just needs retorquing? I doubt bead blasing could get in that tight of a bond???? mine just leakes a little and I thought I'd get a wrench on it first.
 
Yes, a purpose-built wrench would probably help with removal and install of the nut. Perhaps you could arrange a tool exchange.

It would be a matter of false economy to replace the seal w/o inspecting the Flange Shaft for grooves. After 40+ years the shaft will become worn by the seal where it makes contact. Slip a Readisleeve, see your Bearing House for proper supply, onto the shaft to correctly seal the whole assembly. The sleeves are inexpensive and will make the repair worth while.
Roger – there's a good bearing shop in San Leandro just off Marina Blvd. GONZO
 
[ QUOTE ]
I'm thinking the same thing since the car is with out a drive train the this moment. Could it be that it just needs retorquing? I doubt bead blasing could get in that tight of a bond???? mine just leakes a little and I thought I'd get a wrench on it first.

[/ QUOTE ]

Well if you plan on getting a wrench on it. You will need the proper sized socket and a pull bar. Also the car must be immobilised as the torque applied to the bearing nut is sufficient to; Break the hand brake's grip loose and move the car. I also keep the rear wheels on the ground and chocks front and rear of the rear wheels. The speed ring idea is good if you need it. Pack the back side of the seal good with a hitemperature grease and install.--Fwiw---Keoke

OH I forgot! Old folks do have a time moving that tranny around. So if you have a full sized floor jack it will make a good dolly for handling the tranny. Thats how I do it- Hang on to it though!. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]

"Unless you make you own wrench"!-No 7777; Roger ain't been eaten non of them Monkey Brains and he went out and purchased he self a proper set of tools'---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

[/ QUOTE ] yum,yum monkey brains,ummm! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif
 
ausmhly,the size of the axle nut is 2-3/16, given the tightness of this nut 140 ft# and the fact that the nut does no show enough of its face/pojection form the axle littlie over 1/8" youll find the use of a socket a clunking banging around afair also gived the fact that the socket will set yo back between $50-$75 i elected to make a wrench, also if you buy a socket you might find youll have to grind down its outside diameter to get it to fit snug on the nut as in "thin wall" sockets, the only advantage i found is that a tourque wrench is much more adaptable to a socket, id take the advice of others given here to change it now, and not try to just "retighten" it , if you bugger up the nut i.e attempting to drift it loose with a punch,well just add $30.00 to your parts prices and do purchase a "new" locking washer as well as the "o" ring and seal. left side/drivers side wheel=clockwise ratation to remove, right side pass.side = counter clockwise rotation for removale.fwiw. wrench i made see attch, keoke hates this thing thats why i love to post it so often /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif - /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
 

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I thought he was talking about the drive shaft flange on the drive pinion, not the axle retainer. But I do get confused easily. Very nice wrench you made though.
D
 
Yeah me too Dave, Wot! in the world is that fella "Anthony" be going on about ?. Prolly that strange diet he been on.--Keoke-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif---- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
gents, then why it titled "rear axle leaking" ???? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif dave thanks,still love showing keoke da wrench! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
gents, then why it titled "rear axle leaking" ????

[/ QUOTE ]

CUZ: The front one can't.----- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cowboy.gif
 
If I read this correct, you must take off nut #43 in the Moss catalog to replace the oil seal #39. (Moss refrences so anthony777 is with us on this). Will it take 140+ pounds of force to get it off? Not a lot of room under there for that.
 
Hi TH,
I think there is still a communication error here. Anthoney's wrench is to remove the outer axle hub nut & is 8 sided, 2-13/64", Moss #62. It is a very nice wrench for it's intended purpose.

The nut under discussion is the drive shaft flange nut, Moss #43 as you say. It requires a 6 or 12 sided socket & is considerably smaller in diameter. However, it should require a good bit of torque to remove & tighten it, & requires a method of holding/locking the flange to remove the nut. A long bar that is bolted to the flange via the U joint bolts works well. You "might" be able to lock the brakes on to hold the flange & nut while applying a lot of pressure to the nut with a long socket handle, but doubtful. I personally would use an impact wrench to remove it.
D
 
Yes Dave, I was thinking impact wrench also. I'd like to put it back with the impact wrench as well but I'd not know the torque applied.
 
It should be pretty tight. It could easily stand 200 ft/lb but I doubt if you can get much more than about 140 which should be ok. While the impact wrench is great for getting the nut off, I don't think I would rely on it to re-torque the nut since you don't know how much torque it is applying. I think it will require a 1 1/8" socket for the nut.

Some folks feel that the impact wrench might hammer the gears also.

Which brings us to -- You might as well make a long sturdy bar with a couple of bolt holes drilled in it to clamp under a couple of U joint bolts on the flange to hold the flange from turning. This plus a torque wrench, is the only reliable way to put the nut back on. Something like a 1/4" thick bar about 1.5" wide with two 3/8" holes on 2" centers comes to mind. long enough to catch the frame, or floor, or something. Old telephone/power pole cross arm braces make excellent bars.

Keep it in your "special tool" collection or re-use it for something else later.
D
PS - You "might" need a gear puller to get the flange off, sometimes they are pretty tight.
 
Now it's my turn to fix the leak. 25 years of dry rot has taken it's toll on the 41 year old seal around the input/pinion shaft.
I hope that I can replace the seal from under the car without taking off the transmission tunnel ??
Any " gotcha's " to watch out for ?
 
Hi Ed,
I'd think things would go much easier if you remove the drive shaft. To do this, you need to disconnect the front U joint. I would hate to have to try removing the front U joint bolts from underneath, but it might - or might not be possible to do. As has been mentioned, check the pinion shaft seal surface for wear & use a Redi-Sleeve if needed. Only takes a couple of extra hours to gut the interior & remove the tunnel. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
D
 
Thanks Dave.
Looking at the Moss diagram, it would appear that I also need to order a new dust cover to go with the new seal. I can't use the old dust cover can I ?
 
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