Rear Axle and Suspension Paint

[dmorris1]

Hi, new member to the forum. Under going a BJ8 restoration and have some question about paint for the rear axle, driveshaft, and suspension parts. What do you recommend? Por15, Eastwood chassis paint or something else. What holds up the best?
Thanks,
David

 

[richberman]

Eastwood Chassis black satin.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Hi, new member to the forum. Under going a BJ8 restoration and have some question about paint for the rear axle, driveshaft, and suspension parts. What do you recommend? Por15, Eastwood chassis paint or something else. What holds up the best?
Thanks,
David

I used Eastwood gloss black and did have several parts powdercoated gloss black.

 

[pkmh]

The POR-15 you mention, I just used to line the interior portions of the trunk after removing the old gas tank and prepping the floor surfaces. In my case, I had rust in select areas and used the POR to arrest any further rust. I do plan to paint over the POR.

In my opinion and I don't know if anyone else agrees, but with the POR-15, I would limit to where you have rust issues because, as the product indicates, once you put that stuff on, it'll never come off unless grinding it off. Not even paint thinner will take it off. So I would be careful where you use the POR.

Another note about the POR is to not have it exposed to direct sunlight for it will breakdown from exposure to ultra voilet rays. In your case involving underneath, I need not worry there.

For me having used the POR anywhere on my car, I feel I am biting the bullet using it at all for I am trying maintain quality control, yet trying to keep my restoration as "pure" as possible.

Paul

 

[dougie]

In my opinion and I don't know if anyone else agrees, but with the POR-15, I would limit to where you have rust issues because, as the product indicates, once you put that stuff on, it'll never come off unless grinding it off. Not even paint thinner will take it off. So I would be careful where you use the POR.

I agree, and add that you don't even want to think about getting it on your skin.
See above statement about grinding it off.....his stuff laughs at paint thinner, MEK and acetone won't touch it when fully cured.

 

[pkmh]

Your right about getting the POR on your hands. I got some on my fingers and "quickly" tried to remove it, but still would leave a slight stain and it still takes about two weeks to be rid of it completely.

As for thinner, from memory I do believe on the can it says in so many words how you can thin it but don't even think about using the thinner to remove it or get it off.

And one more note, be careful in making sure you have a clean seal on the lid or that is to say, seal the lid on the can with no excess POR. Otherwise, you'll never be able to open the can again! I listened to that advice and am still able to use what I have left (afterall, even a small can is not cheap to buy).

 

[Randy Forbes]

Another aspect of the POR-15 (which I have personally never used, but a friend/local restorer uses it on everything) is that there's a pretty narrow window of when you can put a color topcoat over it. According to him, it must be topcoated while it's still "tacky."

I'm more of a mind to eliminate any rust by removing it (cutting a panel back to virgin metal) and welding in a repair panel.

 

[Jerry]

The POR 15 does brush on and smooths out so it looks like it is sprayed. I think I had some come off where I was bleeding the brakes once. But I could not remember if it was POR15.
It is a good product, just use it right.

Jerry
BN4
BJ8

 

[pkmh]

I don't know if this should go under a new topic but it does relate to the use of POR-15.

That is, I made a judgement call today with respect to using spray [lacquer]paint over POR-15.

I am dealing with the trunk floor area at present which also includes revamping the entire fuel system. The POR applied to the floor will be mostly concealed by the new gas tank when installed. I am pleased with the paint's finish and adherence to the POR. I kept in mind what was mention above regarding how it is best to apply paint over POR when it is still tacky. But the lacquer dried instantly and there were no issues with it bonding to the POR from what I can see.

Not the most purest approach I made but for now, the metal is protected and or rust is arrested and I can continue on my merry way revamping the fuel system.

The only regret I made was painting the POR in a thick coat, instead of a more thin or even coat. Considering I am dealing with slight pitting issues, somehow I don't feel like I am going to lose sleep over this.

However, I would be curious to know how everyone else feels with regards to painting over the POR as I did. For I will attempt to do the same to my floorpans, which already have the POR applied back during the summer season (and which is holding up quite well!).

Paul

 

[elrey]

I own a gallon of black Dunn Edwards Syn-Lustro alkyd enamel. I have been thinking of using it for my suspension and all the other pieces of my car that are to be black. What say ye?