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Radiator back in and brake PDWA leak

Scott_Hower

Luke Skywalker
Offline
For those following the saga, I got the recored radiator back from the shop this week. I installed it last night (early this morning, actually). Started her this AM and no leaks from the rad or the new water pump.

rad.jpg


I decided to give her a once over while up on the jackstands and noticed the PDWA switch thingy is leaking fluid from one of the fittings. Grrrrr. I'm using DOT5/silicone fluid, which has a tendancy to leak past seals, or so I am told. I checked the flair on the leaky fitting and it had a smal burr on it, I removed it with a fine swiss file. Reassembled it and it still leaks/drips. The tubing is new/stainless steel from Classic Tube and Line. I'm going to remove the PDWA and have a look at the flare seat, maybe there's a gouge or something from the flair. Anyone have any thoughts/suggestions?
 

tony barnhill

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I don't---but, I've gotta tell you that is one heck of an engine compartment!
 
OP
Scott_Hower

Scott_Hower

Luke Skywalker
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
I don't---but, I've gotta tell you that is one heck of an engine compartment!

[/ QUOTE ]

Thank you. That's an extra special compliment coming from a real pro. BTW, I got your parts quote, but have been too busy to reply and I need a few other bits as well. I'll resend it.

I'm going to yank the PDWA and replace the seals to begin with (can't remember if I ever did this). Will check the offending fittings' flare seat to see what up. If nothing obvious, the plan is to reflare the tube and try again. If the flare seat is "knackered", I understand Twist sells rebuilt PDWAs for about $70.
 
D

Deleted member 3577

Guest
Guest
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I'm not a big fan of stainless steel brake lines.

They often leak & are a bit brittle.

Nickel steel is a good choice.
 
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