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77MidgetMkIV

77MidgetMkIV

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I am in the process of replacing all the brake lines, hoses, and hardware on my Midget. All the rear line, front lines, PDWA, and primary/secondary lines have been removed. Last night, I went to remove the long line from the PDWA to the rear axle. Sounds easy, except for the 1 $&%(#&*@ clip that secures it up in the tranny tunnel next to the clutch slave cylinder. Obviously installed during manufacturing BEFORE THE TRANNY WAS PUT IN! There is no way to get a screwdriver on it and get enough torgue to turn it, let alone the fact that there is only about 3 inches of clearance to the tranny.............ARGHGHGH!!!!



Ok, I'm better now. This screw is getting replaced with a hex head when it goes back in, though. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nopity.gif
 
I'm not familiar with that clip but in a tight space like that you may want to look for and buy something called a "Chapman Set" or "Chapman Driver". These tools have been around for many years. Basically the kits include a 1/4" drive, flat, ratchet handle and assorted Allen and screwdriver bits. You put the bit in the handle and have a very low-profile, right-angle, ratchet screwdriver.

See the info/picture at Jensen Tools:
https://www.jensentools.com/product/group.asp?parent_id=4110
 
PDWA (Peculiarly Designed Worthless Auto-part)...Tear it out by the roots & throw it over the hill. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
HAHAHA-Nice thought Whatsthat. My PDWA is actually in good shape, save the switch assembly itself. Just going to replace that and the o-rings, and I should be good to go......DK- you can also take a phillips head and insert it into a 1/4 socket, and use your 1/4 socket wrench, which accomplishes the same thing. I tried that as well, and unfortunatley, there is not enough clearance to get sufficient pressure on the head to "break" it. Good thought though. That looks like a nice kit. I'll have to investigate further. As it stands, I think I can get a small vise grip on it. If I can get it moving, then it should be ok. I will then replace it with a Hex head screw that I can get my 1/4 socket on in the future.
 
Ah yes, that reminds me of my thoughts of how well BL located that screw when I did my brake lines. I improvised by taking a hex-drive phillips bit and driving it with my 1/4" socket wrench. It is a little unwieldy pushing the bit into the head with one hand while turning the wrench with the other hand, but it worked.
 
The Chapman stuff is even thinner/flatter than a bit stuck in a regular ratchet. The hex/screwdriver bits pass through the handle. You know the disposable screwdriver bits at the home center for use with electric drills? A Chapman set is like using one of those new "gear wrench" wrenches off the middle of the bit. Very tiny... but it still wouldn't help your need to push against the fastener. Sorry! Good luck, I hope the ViseGrips do the job.

BTW, Chapman sets are a great addition to your tools, but I don't ususally buy from Jensen. They have good stuff but their prices aren't the best.
 
sparky- that's what I tried to do as well. Just can't seem to get enough pressure on the screw head to break it free, though. I am going to attack it tonight and see what damage I can do, and how many /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif it takes to get 1 little screw out...
 
Reminds me of the time I installed a new clutch in my GT6. Took the gearbox off, put in the clutch, then bolted it all back together. I then happily went back to the bench to pop a cool one and admire my handiwork, then noticed the throw-out bearing sitting right on the bench!

Out it all came again . . .

Yes, the beer was warm by the time I got back around to drinking it!
 
ouch.
 
Oh, sounds like you’re having as much fun as I was when I replaced that line on my 73. Worst part about it was I had the engine and trasns out a few months prior and I didn't even think of doing it then.

Anyway, what I ended up doing was pulling up the carpet on the side of the trans tunnel where the clip was and turning the part of the screw sticking through with a pair of pliers until it was loose enough for me to turn it from the inside the tunnel.

Did the opposite to put it back.

Hope this helps.
 
Greg,

You are an original thinker. That's so simple, so straight forward, that it is absolutely brilliant. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
 
Greg, you may have something there!!! I need to remove the carpet there anyway to inspect what I think is the beginning of a little corrosion in the floorpan that I noticed from below on the creeper last night. Fantastic!!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
I only wish I would have thought of it before I spent over an hour trying to get the thing unscrewed from the inside of the tunnel. Every time after something like this happens I tell myself "next time I will step back and think a bit before I jump in". Yet no matter how many times I say that I still rush into it. One day.... One day... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
ditto here, Greg. Thought I was cruising last night when I had all the rear lines stripped out in minutes, only to wrestle with that one screw for over an hour before I had to get cleaned up.
UGH!!
 
I ground that $^#%$&*#( screw off with a grinder from the inside and then used a punch to pop it out. took 5 minutes after ...well you fellas know.

mark
 
Some older models have a switch that only has two operational lines: 1 for the front, and one for the rear. My 77 has 3: 1 for each front wheel, and 1 for the rear axle. Also, there are some differences in the piston and seal setups inside, but that is not really an issue.
 
Ok... I feel kinda stupid, but what is a PDWA?
 
Ok... that makes sense. next question... my 77 midget has lost all breaks. They were fine when I drove it about 4 months ago, but since that time, they're all gone. Now I know I need new rear brake cylinders as they are leaking a little, but I bled the system and within 10 minutes, no more brakes again. This is something I plan to fix while the motor is in the machine shop (TODAY... YEA!!!). Any ideas on what's wrong or what I should be checking first? Oh, by the way, even though there was no brake pressure, the brake warning light never came on???
 
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