TR2/3/3A Question on shape of lower back of front fender

[TuffTR250]

For my TR3A I got a front drivers side fender patch panel from Moss, p/n 855-495. The back end of that patch panel is almost perfectly straight it's entire height of 12 to 13 inches. When I put the door on to check clearances, I noticed that the door has a curve to it. As a result, the door protrudes out past the fender where the door has the curve. I checked the passenger side fender and door and have the same situation, which I had not really noticed before. Although the passenger side fender is far from original and not a good example. My question then is whether the lower back end of the front fender is supposed to be curved like the door, or is it supposed to be straight on the lower 12 to 13 inches? I have attached pictures of both fenders so you can see the gap I'm referring to, although it is much easier to see in person than in a picture. Thanks for the help!




Regards,
Bob

 

[tinman58]

Bob
you will have to put your own curve in the patch panel. You can try and roll it a little over your thigh. The replacement rocker panels are the same way. You need to do your own sheet metal work to make things fit right.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Yes, to the casual observer many of the surfaces on a TR3 appear flat (body panels, sills, even the windscreen) but laying a straight edge against them reveals subtle curves.

 

[TuffTR250]

Thanks! I suspected it should have a bit of a curve. I did try bending some curve into it but due to the L-shaped bracket running along that back side it would not bend. I had thought about cutting a slit in the leg of that bracket to allow it to bend, but I'm leery of weakening that bracket or kinking the panel rather than curving it.
Regards,
Bob

 

[tinman58]

B
you can shrink the flange some by crimping the metal a little bit at a time. You can also get a metal Shrinker form Harbor Freight.

 

[TuffTR250]

I decided to V-slit the L-shaped bracket that is spot welded on the back end of the patch panel. By slitting it in a V-shape that allowed me to bow that end a bit. I was going to weld the slits once I had the panel the right shape. But then I changed my mind and decided to leave the slits there and put large washers on the mounting bolts. When I'm ready to finally install and weld in the panel, I will then push the panel out in the middle just a little bit to match the door and bolt it down tight with the mounting bolts. The large washers should firmly hold that L-shaped bracket firmly in place.
Regards,
Bob

 

[TR3driver]

Probably too late to help, but a better option might be to shrink the flange a bit. Heat a spot red hot, then slap a wet rag against it. Repeat as necessary. It won't shrink it by very much each time, but you don't need very much. Check YouTube for examples.

 

[Gordon_Dedrick]

I think Standard Triumph would be OK with that gap! We are used to todays tolerances that give exact, even, 1/8" gaps. ...that was not the case when our cars were made.