TR6 Question about headlight buckets

[sqbsprite]

So I became a TR6 owner back in October and I have been going over the car's body to address the common problem areas for rust. I had difficulty removing the right front fender because I did not know about the bracket behind the headlight assembly. Normally I would have removed the headlight, but it was held in by large rivets instead of screws. After I realized the fender was held tight, I decided to drill the rivets out. So my question is- how is the bucket supposed to be attached? I assume that there should be captured nuts or welded nuts on the back side of the fender. That is what I remember on MGs and my Sprite. I could not find a good photo in any catalogs or books that I have. I doubt rivets were correct, but then again, I'm seeing a lot differences as compared to my other LBCs.

 

[TR3driver]

My early TR6 factory parts book shows FC2804 nuts, which are a kind of clip nut that snaps into a square hole in the body. Then YF7406 screws, which have a special thread shape to suit those nuts.

Looks like TRF has the nuts, and they claim that GHF424 screws (which they also have) will work. Oddly enough, though, they are not listed in any of their catalogs.

Of course, it's hard to tell what you'll find behind those rivets. Hopefully the holes are intact, though.

 

[tomshobby]

My 76 has rivets. I also found the replacement gasket from Moss does not fit correctly. It is too small to cover the metal seams around the opening.

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Most TR6 buckets are riveted. Maybe the early 69's had screws. For ease of disassembly use screws going back. It might help if the hood release cable ever breaks.

Marv

 

[sqbsprite]

My 76 has rivets. I also found the replacement gasket from Moss does not fit correctly. It is too small to cover the metal seams around the opening. View attachment 32205View attachment 32206

Those look like the rivets. My rubber seals are good and fit correctly. Looking on the back of the fender, it did not look like a nut or clip had ever been on it. The original paint was still there. I don't like the rivet idea, but I have seen the nuts get stripped or broken off on other cars. I might look at the modern plastic type fastner that is removable. My '04 Mini is full of them.

 

[tomshobby]

Steve, when I replaced the rivets I used a pneumatic rivet gun. I tried a hand rivet tool first and it did not pull the rivets tight. I also installed a separate ground wire. The original assembly method did not seem to me the most dependable ground system. And screws might be OK but they might rust and be a problem if they ever need to be removed.

 

[DNK]

View attachment 32242

View attachment 32243

 

[sqbsprite]

It might help if the hood release cable ever breaks.

Marv

I don't see how this would help. Even with the bucket out, there is no access to the engine compartment behind the light bucket. Screws would only work if they have a captive nut because there is no way to access the screw from behind. Rivets make sense from an ease of assembly point of view, but I don't like having to drill them. But it's not like they need to come out often.

 

[TR3driver]

I don't see how this would help.

Doesn't having the buckets out give you access to some of the hood hinge bolts? It's been a long time ago, but I seem to recall we took them out when a buddy lost his cable (and didn't have a backup plan installed).

Yes, of course you'd use captive nuts. If you don't like the metal ones I mentioned before, there are plastic ones you can get at FLAPS. Less prone to rust than the steel ones and strong enough for the job.

 

[tomshobby]

On a TR6 There is no access to the engine compartment or bonnet hinges. However it is very easy to reach the bonnet hinges with the grill removed.