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powder coating
- Thread starter rossco
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Sorry. This is my first time to participate.
1) If I powder coat a bugeye rear end does it need to be dis-assembled?
2) Should I dis-assemble it anyway? I've had it for 25 years. It's never been inspected.
3) If I take it to the guy that paints it do I need to plug/cover any openings?
4) How do I verify the guy knows what he's doing? Obviously, I don't.
1) If I powder coat a bugeye rear end does it need to be dis-assembled?
2) Should I dis-assemble it anyway? I've had it for 25 years. It's never been inspected.
3) If I take it to the guy that paints it do I need to plug/cover any openings?
4) How do I verify the guy knows what he's doing? Obviously, I don't.
Healey 100
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Welcome to the board, Rossco.
Powder coating requires quite a bit of heat, any plastic parts need to be removed and all oil drained. I doubt if there are many plastic parts in the rear end, but if there are, you'll find out.
I'm not a big fan of powder coating, it is tough but so is modern enamel and it is much easier to apply. How tough and shiney do you need a differential housing to be?
Unless I know of a specific problem with the rear end, I just take the rear cover off, drain the oil, and inspect the ring, pinion visually. Spin the unit and see if all the motion is smooth. I have flushed out the rear ends with water soluable degreaser and a strong stream from a hose if the rear end is out of the car and I can tilt it to get all the water out of it.
Reassemble and regasket but don't add oil until you have painted the exterior. Degrease the outside of the unit and sandblast or wirebrush the exterior to prepare for paint. I like to remove all the original paint, if there is any left on it. Put it on some sawhorses and paint the whole thing with black enamel, mask off anything like brake lines you don't want painted.
Before you drive the car, (that could be years later), fill it with gear oil and you're good to go.
Good luck,
Bill.
Powder coating requires quite a bit of heat, any plastic parts need to be removed and all oil drained. I doubt if there are many plastic parts in the rear end, but if there are, you'll find out.
I'm not a big fan of powder coating, it is tough but so is modern enamel and it is much easier to apply. How tough and shiney do you need a differential housing to be?
Unless I know of a specific problem with the rear end, I just take the rear cover off, drain the oil, and inspect the ring, pinion visually. Spin the unit and see if all the motion is smooth. I have flushed out the rear ends with water soluable degreaser and a strong stream from a hose if the rear end is out of the car and I can tilt it to get all the water out of it.
Reassemble and regasket but don't add oil until you have painted the exterior. Degrease the outside of the unit and sandblast or wirebrush the exterior to prepare for paint. I like to remove all the original paint, if there is any left on it. Put it on some sawhorses and paint the whole thing with black enamel, mask off anything like brake lines you don't want painted.
Before you drive the car, (that could be years later), fill it with gear oil and you're good to go.
Good luck,
Bill.
Randy Forbes
Yoda
Offline
More to it than that, mostly in regard to surface preparation.
Yes, it would have to be taken apart and cleaned, but that won't be clean enough.
In the case of used parts, especially those containing oil, the part needs to be "baked out" (to remove residual oil) prior to coating and curing, or it will contaminate the powder when the heat forces the oil out.
The differential does have rubber seals, so they won't withstand the heat of the curing cycle.
Since you're in need of a "powder coating 101" I suggest you start here: https://forum.caswellplating.com/powder-coating-questions/
Since you're going through all that trouble (unless I've just stopped you in your tracks) you might as well do a full complement of polymer coatings (thermal barrier, thermal dispersant and dry-film lubricant) on the differential internal components.
Yes, it would have to be taken apart and cleaned, but that won't be clean enough.
In the case of used parts, especially those containing oil, the part needs to be "baked out" (to remove residual oil) prior to coating and curing, or it will contaminate the powder when the heat forces the oil out.
The differential does have rubber seals, so they won't withstand the heat of the curing cycle.
Since you're in need of a "powder coating 101" I suggest you start here: https://forum.caswellplating.com/powder-coating-questions/
Since you're going through all that trouble (unless I've just stopped you in your tracks) you might as well do a full complement of polymer coatings (thermal barrier, thermal dispersant and dry-film lubricant) on the differential internal components.
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