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play in wheels

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tahoe healey

tahoe healey

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I beleive there was a post a long time ago regarding this but is there an acceptable amount of play in the wheels when the wheels are off the ground and breaks applied? The wire wheels are 2 years old and the hub splines look good. I get about some play (1/4 to 1/3 inch movement at tread) with a solid knock at the end of movement when wheels are cold. Will there be expansion when hubs are hot to deminish this movement? I've not tried it after driving. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
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I believe there was a post a long time ago regarding this but is there an acceptable amount of play in the wheels when the wheels are off the ground and breaks applied? The wire wheels are 2 years old and the hub splines look good. I get about some play (1/4 to 1/3 inch movement at tread) with a solid knock at the end of movement when wheels are cold. Will there be expansion when hubs are hot to diminish this movement? I've not tried it after driving. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

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No there will be NO! expansion. It sounds like to me that the bearing shims for the rear wheel bearings are of the wrong size if the PO changed them. Similarly it may be that the hub is worn and the bearing is sliding in and out abit. This latter problem can be handled if the hub is not too worn by Knurling the inside of the bearing hub. Additionaly, check all the retaining nuts on the axel/hub and the one underneath the Hub.---Keoke-???
 
I'd also check the hub splines. You say that they "look good," but they can look good and not be good. You didn't say which way the movement was. If the movement is forward/aft, then worn splines or loose hub bolts are suspect. The splines should not have sharp edges.
 
Hi TH,
Both above suggestions are good. If you are talking about rotational play, which I assume you are, 1/8" is ok, 1/4" is getting marginal. Measure it exactly. Both the hub & wheel splines should have noticeable flats on their tops. Not worn to a sharp V. Worn hub splines will mess up a good wheel & worn wheel splines will ruin a hub. Inspect both the hubs & the wheels. If any splines are worn to a V on top, replace them. Go here to read more about the subject.
https://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/ThingsToDo.jpg

I know hubs & wheels cost a lot of dollars, but a stripped spline is a receipe for disaster. If they are worn, they will strip sometime when you least expect it. If this happens on the rear, no drive or no brake. On the front, no brake. Additionally, if the spline slips when you apply the brakes, the knockoff will unscrew.

The splines & hubs should be greased fairly often to prevent wear. I personally like motorcycle chain lube. Flows on well & dries to fairly solid. Can handle a lot of pressure.

If you are talking about side to side play of the tire - right angle to the rotation - in out, as Keoke said, there is a serious problem.
D
 
Yeah Cutlass, I think you are about right on the hub spline bit. TH, if they are the original ones they probably are worn. Looks are deceiving unless you 'know' what you be looking at.--Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
Tahoe,

Not sure what kind of play. On the front there are 3 possibilities.

Rotational - check splines, lookie here BWW FAQ

End Play / In-out away from spline - Clean / repack bearings and correct end play with bearing shims

Wobble - Check kingpins and renew or rebush as required.

I have done all three as they all needed to be done (keep in mind what both our cars have in common) as SM from Boise does not do these types of things. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
I've been away so I didn't answer earlier. (lap top but two hotels had internet down). Yes it is rotation as wheels turn, not in and out. I was at the Clovis British Car show with out my BJ8. I bought a neat hard plastic nock off remover so I can take a good look tomorrow. Thanks for the replies. I don't recall the hub splines to be very sharp and certanly not bent as Dave's sight showed but I shall see. I hope not. I'm getting the gear box rebuilt the end of this month and I don't need any more expenses now. Who sell good hubs?
 
HI TH, BWW sells hubs.They also sell soft lead hammers for removing the knock offs and you can hang that plastic thing you bought up in the garage as an artifact.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
Tahoe,

This may be painful but if your splines are worn then your rims are likely also worn. If you replace splines you probably need to replace rims. Worn splines ruin new rims and vice versa.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif
 
Well, you guys were right. The passinger side rear hub has worn splines. $$$
Keoke, I have a copper hammer form my old Jag, lead form my old MG and the Healey came with a Thor. But this big yellow nock off thing is great!
 
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Well, you guys were right. The passinger side rear hub has worn splines. $$$
Keoke, I have a copper hammer form my old Jag, lead form my old MG and the Healey came with a Thor. But this big yellow nock off thing is great!

[/ QUOTE ]

Hang em all! up on the wall as artifacts.--Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
WAIT! WAIT!Keep that Copper one down for a bit and use it to beat the /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif out of them flywheel bolts. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cowboy.gif
 
The new hub arrived. If I install it using the compressor how can I tell how much torque I'm applying? Or should I just use the torque wrench?
 
Hi TH.
Do not use an air wrench on the hub bolts.Use a stndard torque wrench there. I think 40-to-50 Lb.Ft should do it---Keoke

Did you mean the new "Hubs" arrived or did you just get "one" ?.
 
Since they are 7/16" studs, I would torque to 55 lb/ft. Never tighten anything critical with an air wrench. If you did not get new self locking nuts, I would also use Loctite on them. Actually, I would use new nuts.
D
Edit:
Also check all of the other hubs for proper torque.
 
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I would use new nuts. Also check all of the other hubs for proper torque.

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif
 
I've had a bad week! Do I have the correct new hub? How can I tell which BJ8 hub to use? I got the Moss wire wheels two years ago.My Phase 1 is number 25508. Moss lists wheels from 24367 and newer so thats what I got. They list hubs starting from 26705 and newer. I'm in the twilight zone! Can anyone enlighten me as to how many ridges per inch the splines are? This may be the reason the last splines were distroyed (if they were the wrong ones).
Thanks
 
OH my goodness! TH. The number 26705 is the phase 11 upgrade reference point. Hubs are all the same except; the early car's knock off hubs had 12 TPI and those beginning with the 26705 series had 8 TPI. So look and see if your knock off fits the threads on the moss hub, if it does you are good to go.However, I would check them all just to be sure they match.---Fwiw--Keoke

---The reason the last splines was destroyed was cuz they wuz OLD!-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
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So, what changes did they make to the wheels?

[/ QUOTE ]

---None! it is the Knock Off threads on the end of the hubs that are different--- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

---Does your Knock Off screw on to the new hub??
 
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