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Picked up the car today

111

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As some of you know I have been asking blind questions regarding the 1980 MG which I was getting. I picked it up today, and overall it is in good shape. However the owner said it will need a new top, and starter. I have not looked at the top yet, but something else is troublesome.
It has a good oil leak going in that when parked it will leave a fist sized area, and driving it a short distance leaves multiple drips.
I have not yet had a chance to try and figure out where it is coming from, but I suspect you all could make some suggestions of common areas that leak and where to check.

Also if has the letter LFF on top of the pinstripe by the headlamp. Any idea what that means?

MG002.jpg


MG001.jpg


Lastly, if I do wind up needing a starter and top, where are the best places to get them?

I will post some pictures later.

Thanks

1980MG017.jpg


1980MG013.jpg


1980MG022.jpg


1980MG021.jpg
 
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Have the starter tested before you take the previous owner's statement that it NEEDS to be replaced.

Is it the starter or the solenoid....etc...

A good electrical shop may be able to repair your starter cheaper than buying a new one.

Check with Little British Car Company, Moss, etc for replacement parts.

And buy a good shoppe manual (Bentleys)
 

GaryBeu

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111...you sound just like I did in October 2009 when I joined this forum. I don't have answers for this question but you sure will find them here. I bought a '71 MGB that hadn't been started in 18 years and, with the help of al these guys, she's running great now and we are having a ball.
 

bob67bgt

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Congrats on the MGB. Oil leaks can be located with a bit of baby powder. Dust it on and look for the oil trail thru it. Easiest is the Valve cover gasket, Followed by the side cover gaskets under the carb. They are a pain to replace. Another area is the timing cover oil seal and the rear engine seal. Check the oil hose going to the gauge on the right side of the block and the oil filter "0" rings and connection of the bypass hose on the block near the oil pressure gauge line. LFF normally means Left Front Fender. Pics will be nice. I would get a gear reduction starter from Gustaf Machine shop or places like the Bhive in Clemson SC. or Ebay. I think they are all sourced from the same place. For the money EZ on tops fit OK and are reasonable as far as cost. Most MGB starter issues are the solenoid. Bob
 

DrEntropy

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I would start this exercise with several cans of "Gunk" and a thorough cleaning of the engine and surrounding bay. Then the 'track will be fresh, ahd your working environs will be less, umm, grotty.
 
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111

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Thanks for the replies and suggestions.

I was hoping there was an online owners manual to help explain little things like how to fold and unfold the top. Heck even simple things like opening the hood are a mystery to me. I know several cars I own have the year by year manuals online in PDF or some other viewable/downloadable format. Something like that would help to keep me from asking dumb questions until I become more familiar with the car. The best news so far is that I have not found a speck of rust.

I also noticed that the trunk/boot lid appears to have a bubble or bend up on the drivers side. I suspect someone attempted to shut it while it was locked into position. How malable are the trunk lids, or is this a big issue to repair?

1980MG011.jpg


1980MG010.jpg


BTW - The battery cover has some type of switch on it that is also connected to the battery cable itself. Is has a firm click to either side, so I have a suspicion it might be some form of a rudimentary kill switch? Anyway, I could not figure out how to remove the cover other than lifting it up far enough to get a battery charger on it. What the heck is it, and how do you remove it for full access to the battery?
 

DrEntropy

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Sounds like the PO put a kill switch in the battery cover. Great idea in concept, kinda poor in execution. You may consider relocating it to the forward part of the bulkhead, ease the battery access.
 

PAUL161

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Well 111, Welcome to the forum! Here's John twists version of how to store a MGB folding top. It'll explain it a little better than putting it in print. You'll get to know who John Twist, (owner of University Motors) is, as you get deeper into the sport. He's an authority on MGs that has been a great help to many people who love MGs and want to know how to solve a problem on one. PJ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3Zfdj9W2Y4
YouTube - 08 MG How to Put Down the Soft Top

<span style="font-size: 10pt"><span style="color: #CC33CC">Caroline is in this vidio guys!</span></span> :angel:
 
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111

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DrEntropy said:
Sounds like the PO put a kill switch in the battery cover. Great idea in concept, kinda poor in execution. You may consider relocating it to the forward part of the bulkhead, ease the battery access.

I am not sure. What do you guys think?

1980MG027.jpg


1980MG026-1.jpg


1980MG024.jpg


1980MG028-1.jpg
 
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Yep...battery kill switch. I wonder if there is a short leading to a drain on the battery?

As suggested, I would move it down to the rear deck paneling.
 

DrEntropy

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Since the car is a negative ground one, even if the switch DID "short" it wouldn't drain the battery. But it should be either taken out of the circuit or relocated as it is an issue for access to the battery and terminals.

I'd judge that as a bodge... only for poor placement.
 
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DrEntropy said:
Since the car is a negative ground one, even if the switch DID "short" it wouldn't drain the battery. But it should be either taken out of the circuit or relocated as it is an issue for access to the battery and terminals.

I'd judge that as a bodge... only for poor placement.

I did not mean to imply that the cut-off switch was shorting out. Somewhere along the wiring harness there can exist a problem...something staying on, etc.
 
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111

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Thanks for the replies so far. It is a kill switch as I've now tried it and that is it's function. I can only assume based on the replies it is not stock.

Any ideas on the LFF markings, trunk lid issue, or the condition/repair ability of the top?
 

PAUL161

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The trunk lid on these cars should have had two supports from day one, as many have that bend in them for the reason you described. It's hard to get that bend totally out. If the inside brace isn't broken, I'd lay it on a piece of carpet to protect the paint, just as it sets on the car, apply some hand pressure on that spot might take a bit of it out. Only push on the edge, and if you can straighten it some, I'd get a kit from Rick Ingram with two compressed air type supports, one for each side. I guess Rick still sells them. Like some say, I'd relocate the cut off switch to another area. Kind of amusing located where it is. PJ
 
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PAUL161 said:
The trunk lid on these cars should have had two supports from day one, as many have that bend in them for the reason you described. It's hard to get that bend totally out. If the inside brace isn't broken, I'd lay it on a piece of carpet to protect the paint, just as it sets on the car, apply some hand pressure on that spot might take a bit of it out. Only push on the edge, and if you can straighten it some, I'd get a kit from Rick Ingram with two compressed air type supports, one for each side. I guess Rick still sells them.

Yes...I'm still in operation... contact me off-list for information and pricing. (Thanks, Paul!)
 

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PAUL161 said:
The trunk lid on these cars should have had two supports from day one, as many have that bend in them for the reason you described. It's hard to get that bend totally out.

Here's what "can" happen when a friend tries to "help" out...
 

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JPSmit

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Rick, is there a Midget version?
 
D

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Chevrolet Pickups had that issue with "stiff" hood hinges in the late 70's.
There was a "kit" to fix it.
I've installed bunches of them.

Formed piece the screwed in under the lid on the frame, pulled it straight and kept it from re-occurring.

Maybe a trimmed piece of angle iron would do.

Dave
 
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