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jjbunn
Jedi Knight
Offline
The bolt that seals the chamber on the PDWA is tough to remove. Here's what worked for me:
1) Don't even think about trying to remove it before applying PB Blaster to the joint for a couple of days: you will give yourself a hernia.
2) Take the 7/8" socket of a tyre iron, which fits the bolt head, and a rubber mallet, and place the PDWA bolt head in the tyre iron. Hold the pair on the bench with one hand.
3) Tap the PDWA body with increasing force with the mallet. After a few bashes, it comes off.
(BTW can someone please explain in what situations copper washers are used, rather than steel?)
I have refurbished my master cylinder: the end rubber seal was perished, hence the leak. The bore looked clean as a whistle. The nice refurb kit from TRF includes red rubber grease, which I slathered generously over everything before replacing the parts. This master cylinder is *much* easier to disassemble than the MC in the MGB.
1) Don't even think about trying to remove it before applying PB Blaster to the joint for a couple of days: you will give yourself a hernia.
2) Take the 7/8" socket of a tyre iron, which fits the bolt head, and a rubber mallet, and place the PDWA bolt head in the tyre iron. Hold the pair on the bench with one hand.
3) Tap the PDWA body with increasing force with the mallet. After a few bashes, it comes off.
(BTW can someone please explain in what situations copper washers are used, rather than steel?)
I have refurbished my master cylinder: the end rubber seal was perished, hence the leak. The bore looked clean as a whistle. The nice refurb kit from TRF includes red rubber grease, which I slathered generously over everything before replacing the parts. This master cylinder is *much* easier to disassemble than the MC in the MGB.
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