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Paint and Body -Getting it ready to send it off

Patton

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Well, what seemed like it was never going to happen, is about to happen. I have found someone to do the work on the Healey. I decided that even though I am not planning on having a 1 ft restoration done to this car, I am going to stop trying to find another $1500 paint job for the car and have it done right, not just a respray. The final decision the paint is Pacific Green over Ivory.

In a effort to save what I can, I have agreed to strip all chrome off of the car (with the exception of the fender beads, he'll take them off), interior (already half out), electrical including harness, as well as the engine bay to the block (he will pull the motor). At the end, he should get a rolling chassis with all body parts attached, but everything not essential stripped. I only have a couple weeks to accomplish this.

I need a little help with some questions I have.

* My BN4 somehow does not have the hole in the cowl for the single washer jet (the duals aren't their either). In case it isn't their for some reason when he strips the paint, can someone tell me how far back from the centerline of the hood should it be, and what size hole should be drilled?

* My dash is currently painted body color. Am I correct that this was never correct for a BN4 and it should be covered in the same color as the seats?

* Any good recommendations as far as taking things off as far as steps, storage, challenges. I will be getting the car back relatively fast.

* For the Pacific Green Paint, most of the cars I have seen have been more Blue than Green. The chip in the Don Pikovnik book is much Greener, as is the car on page 50 of "Essential Austin-Healey 100 & 3000" by Mike Lawrence, and the image on Roger Los's site. Is the ICI code 2659 that is in Pikovnik's book the right code for that Greener than Blue color, that is what I want?

* Anyone have a good contract or other document that I can put together that I can spell out exactly what I am expecting for the work. Shop forms I have seen in the past don't cover nut and bolt issues and I want to put as much as possible in writing.

If you haven't guessed, I am pretty excited to finally get this done. I will have to work like mad over the next two weeks to get the car ready (anyone want to help), and will probably take a week off to put it mostly back together when I get it back.

Patton
 

John Loftus

Darth Vader
Offline
Patton,

If you are getting the engine bay, boot, interior, etc. painted, and it's a rolling chassis what are you going to do around the wheel well area i.e. the suspension bits front and rear? I would think it hard to mask all of this and get a quality coating. At the same time you are limited in what you can respray without doing a full frame off paint job. The inside of the fenders, parts of the frame, etc. will have the old paint color. I'm not trying to talk you into going all the way with stripping down to the frame. It's much more time and money (I know!) It's just that I was in a similar position with my car and decided to pull it all apart so that I could take care of potential rust (which I did find small amounts) and get everything primed and painted completely.

Also, I know from the Healey list that you had a question about the small plastic beads below the Headlamps. Yes, they are just gray plastic (not chromed). I would strongly suggest that you purchase the concours quidelines and the Anderson/Moment book to answer your questions about original finishes and details as you put it back together. Good luck with the project!

Cheers,
John
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
Country flag
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Hi Patton, why can't you get club member help and strip the car yourself.?? Also all chasis and body panels are painted body color.-FWIW---Keoke
 
OP
Patton

Patton

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Hi John,

The money is stretched as far as it will go, so it has to stop at that point. I'll be very satisfied with what I will get when it is done, and the only concern I will have on the underside of the car that it is protected from rust, and that will be addressed. At 5 feet this car is going to look great, and there won't be bodywork sins under the paint.

I believe that I will be fine on the rust based on the condition of the rest of the car, and the only rust spot area that we could find is being addressed.

Those little gray plastic strips seem so cheap, I can see why some leave them off. If I was more skilled and industrious I would try to make a chrome bead and replace with that.

I have the Anderson/Moment book as well as many others, but I think that it lacks many of the details of the Longbridge cars. Since Pacific Green is a scarce color, it seems that some variance as to what is original is tolerated. I am not really as concerned about which is the correct shade of Pacific Green as I am that I want the Greener shade rather than the bluer one (the pic in Sharon's post is the bluer one).

This is the bluer color, most of the cars that I have pics of are this shade.....
88650-PacificGreen-Blanco2.jpg



Here is the Greener one scanned from the page 50 of "Essential Austin-Healey 100 & 3000" by Mike Lawrence. This car looks a greener than all of the others, but it closer to the chip.

IMG48001.jpg


Here is the chip from Pikovnik's book

ColorChartChip.jpg


As always thanks
Patton
 
OP
Patton

Patton

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Beer fridge is fully stocked and the pizza and wings delivery guy is a half mile away!!! All invited, email me for directions /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[ QUOTE ]

Hi Patton, why can't you get club member help and strip the car yourself.?? Also all chasis and body panels are painted body color.-FWIW---Keoke

[/ QUOTE ]
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
Country flag
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Patton, Put a lock on the fridge until the car gets to bits-Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
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/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif They couldn't even get the arrows on the fenders going the correct way!---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
 

John Loftus

Darth Vader
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
the only concern I will have on the underside of the car that it is protected from rust, and that will be addressed.

[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Patton,
Just don't put on any undercoat ... it can have the opposite effect on keeping away the rust besides being a bear to remove when doing repairs, etc.

I hope someone can help you out with a good example of Pacific Green. I agree the others look way too blue .. makes me think of Florida green (the aqua color). Your greener example looks a bit more like spruce green. Find a sample that you like and have it matched!

Cheers,
John
 

Lin

Jedi Knight
Gold
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Hi Patton,
It is sometimes difficult to determine from photos, but the BJ8 green over white photo looks like Florida Green to me. Pacific green is "greener" and darker.

Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
Country flag
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I really can not say Patton whether the color is correct or not, because it seems that the car's photo was made on an overcast day and lacking good light may make the color appear darker than it really is.-FWIW---Keoke
 
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