• Hi Guest! Being a Paying Supporter is NOT a requirement to participate at BCF. However, subscribing will help ensure we can continue to serve the LBC community for years to come. If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource...Please consider supporting us by **Upgrading**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this banner)
Tips
Tips

Oil Pump Recommendation[s] for BJ8

Patrick67BJ8

Darth Vader
Silver
Country flag
Offline
I'm rebuilding my engine and I need a recommendation for a New Oil Pump.

I have two old pumps and the cylinder walls where the gears go are scored.

Pressure was good before pulling the engine. About a third of the top of #6 piston disintegrated causing a loud clacking sound so I have to rebuild the engine due to cylinder wall damage(it has been bored 60 over). I had the gears of one pump CAD plated and baked to reduce the tolerances, but on the advice of a couple of local club members it was suggested that "if it were my engine I would get a new pump".
Thanks,
 
OP
Patrick67BJ8

Patrick67BJ8

Darth Vader
Silver
Country flag
Offline
Bob_Spidell said:
Patrick67BJ8 said:
John Turney said:
FWIW, I agree with the local club members.
Recommendations for a supplier?

When I rebuild my BJ8's engine I'm going to use one of the Denis Welch 'high capacity,' per his recommendation. No experience with this part, but DW generally makes pretty good stuff:

https://www.bighealey.co.uk/category/catalogues/austin-healey/engines/3000-bottom-end?page=1
I find it strange that a high-capacity pump, also more expensive, is recommended for a standard engine and the gear pump is recommended for race engines(non-standard).

I heard that there was problems with the high-capacity pumps when they first came out with them but I would assume that they have been corrected by now.
 
Country flag
Offline
I believe it's because the 'high capacity' is similar to the earlier pumps, which are rotor types. The later BJ8 pump is a gear type. The rotor type puts out more oil at a higher pressure; from what I hear the earlier 6-cyl cars in general have higher oil pressure, esp. at idle. For a high-revving race engine the gear type puts out sufficient pressure with less parasitic loss; the rotor type may actually put out too much oil at too high a pressure and have greater parasitic loss (i.e. the pump uses more HP).
 

Chris_Masucci

Senior Member
Offline
If I remember correctly, a number of years back there was a long discussion on the mailing list about the different pumps. At that time several people had experienced camshaft failures when using the rotor style pump, since it apparently puts a much higher load on the gears driving it, in a pulsed manner. The gear pumps run smoother.
 
Country flag
Offline
I'm a fan of the "old" style rotor pump__they've never failed me, and I've been running one in my car for over thirty-four (>34) years now. Currently fitted with a 3000 (+.030" for 183 c.i. displacement), and of course, its original 2.6 engine that was fitted with the rotor pump at the factory.

I run my engine up to the redline at every opportunity, but it doesn't get much chance for sustained running at the redline. I have not had any problems with cam cears nor drive spindles.

Regardless of type, my recommendation is to have the oil pump internals polymer coated with a dry-film lubricant. Also pay attention to sharp edges on the internal passageways; smoothing these out with reduce pumping losses. For that matter, do everything that rotates or slides!

IMG_1001.jpg


IMG_1041.jpg


IMG_1004.jpg


IMG_1007.jpg


IMG_1103.jpg
 

MCS

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Hello

Can anyone tell if there should be a bolt in in Randy Forbes oil pump picture.

If you look at the pump base , there is a stud and nut on right side. On left side there is a threaded hole. My eng was apart and i did not have the opportunity to look or photo this area. Iam guessing nothing goes in there.
Thanks
Phil
 

BoyRacer

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
There is a reason that there was a changeover from the rotor style pump to a gear pump. The rotor pump put too much back pressure on the drive spindle, camshaft gear, timing chain and camshaft thrust plate. Early attempts to fix the problem by Austin were to put oil groves into the steel thrust plate and even used bronze thrust plates with oil grooves. The DW rotor pump is the same as the 100-6 oil pump that caused so many problems. Use a gear style pump....and beware of County brand. When you get one it will come with directions to "DO NOT OPEN THE PUMP" because the gears have "been carefully matched". Well, in a moment of desperation to get a new pump I ordered a County pump. Upon opening it to check it out, I discovered a huge void in the casting where the gears rotated. It would have ruined my fresh engine if I would have used it.

As for the stud - bolt question that Phil has about Randy's oil pump. There was at least one stud used by the factory in one of the holes. I don't recall off hand which one. It But since the concours people will never see it, I would not worry about it. Studs, nuts, bolts.... they all work just fine. Just don't over tighten.
 
5

57_BN4

Guest
Guest
Offline
The threaded hole next to the oil pump outlet flange (two studs/nuts at left) is where a steel tube goes to take the oil from the pressure relief valve down to the sump without spraying it all over the place inside. It seems a little unnecessary IMO. There is a second tube the same coming off the rearmost main cap to drain the oil from flinger. In theory.

Andy.
 

MCS

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Thanks Richard, Andy, I was curious about the extra stud hole on the right side.
Phil
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
A T-Series MGTD oil pump bypass valve MG 0
M Oil Pump for BN2 Austin Healey 4
A T-Series Mgtd oil pump alterations MG 2
nichola TR6 Oil pump drive barely engages Triumph 2
S TR6 After I put in my new oil pump.... Triumph 3
S T-Series oil pump MG 0
svtmikey GT6 Oil Pump replacement Triumph 5
D TR2/3/3A Oil pump question Triumph 31
J TR2/3/3A Oil Pump Wear Triumph 5
H For Sale Healey oil pump drive Austin Healey Classifieds 0
B TR2/3/3A Oil pump rebuild Triumph 4
Michael Oritt 100 Oil Pump--options and resources Austin Healey 12
Michael Oritt 100 oil pump Austin Healey 5
J Bj8 Oil Pump Austin Healey 2
J 3000 bj8 Oil Pump Austin Healey 38
Jim_Gruber Priming oil pump Spridgets 9
JPSmit Question One - oil pump Spridgets 2
F Video showing oil pump and Kingpin bushing repacement on BJ8 Austin Healey 3
JPSmit New Oil Pump startup Spridgets 8
Rut 1275 oil pump, camshaft adapter Spridgets 2
KVH TR4/4A Using Drill to Spin Oil Pump Shaft Triumph 10
gbtr6 TR6 Prime oil pump in rebuilt engine... Triumph 10
T TR2/3/3A Oil Pump Grief Triumph 8
D Not another oil pump question. Austin Healey 7
tinman58 TR5/TR250 OIL PUMP Priming Triumph 3
B Overdrive Oil Pump Installation Question Austin Healey 10
J Denis Welch Aluminum Sump and H/C Oil Pump clearance Austin Healey 18
dcoplan I've got a twisted camshaft-to-oil pump pin. How to fix?? Spridgets 1
BOBBYR oil pump choice Austin Healey 5
RJS TR4/4A Oil leak at/on fuel pump Triumph 7
D Wedge Funny oil pump Triumph 9
johnrip Wedge TR7 Oil Pump Leak Triumph 2
JPSmit Oil Pump Question Spridgets 13
B TR2/3/3A oil pump drive shaft removal challenge on TR3 Triumph 14
M Healey 100-4 Oil Pump Condition Check Austin Healey 3
BillW103 Oil Pump Spridgets 24
TulsaFred Oil pump priming access Spridgets 8
richberman Anyone rebuild oil pump gears Austin Healey 1
johnrip Wedge tr7 oil pump leak Triumph 2
B Oil Pump for 100-4 Austin Healey 2
chrpark MOWOG oil pump cover- attachment to back plate? Spridgets 6
richberman Which oil pump? Austin Healey 1
DNK Oil Pump spin up Question Triumph 18
P T-Series Looking for TD Oil Pump Top/Cap MG 0
johnrip Wedge TR7 oil pump Triumph 2
bill_powell Oil Pump Failure? Spridgets 14
Nelson Leaking oil pump?? Spridgets 24
Trevor Jessie oil pump cover... Spridgets 4
nissanite TR4/4A Uprated TR-4 oil pump or.... Triumph 13
G I bought the wrong oil pump Spridgets 5

Similar threads

Top