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MGB-GT New MGB GT owner, looking for some general advice.

scotmont

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I just bought a 1969 MGB-GT in pretty good shape. I'm thinking about upgrading some components.

I'm looking at putting in a front suspension tubeshock kit from Moss motors.

I would like to modernize the carburetor with a higher performance weber sidedraft 40.

Also think that I should put in a full set of poly bushings all around. How much labor does this job take?

Tune up with valve adjustment, it's running a little hard and doesn't want to shut down. There's always an extra sputter or two after shut down.

The brakes also need to have a good going through. I originally thought of putting in Wildwood big brakes. Too expensive though. I'm now thinking of buying new slotted rotors with better pads and maybe rebuild the calipers. Then in the rear just refresh and adjust. New fluid of course.

I'm really looking forward to hearing all opinions and open to ideas of other things that I should do. Sway bar kit? Castor correction kit? what do you all think? Are some of these things worth the trouble?

Most importantly, can anyone direct me to a quality MG mechanic in the San Francisco bay area?
Thanks for everything and anything.
 

bob67bgt

Jedi Knight
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Use stock shocks rebuilt by worldwide,Properly rebuild the original carbs and they will work as good as anything,I am on the fence about poly bushes. OK one way or the other,Good gas and a tune may help the running on after its shut down, Brake flex lines and rear wheel cylinders are the first to go on a MGB. Regular brakes will be fine for any kind of normal or spirited street driving. Try the car in GOOD stock form before messing with aftermarket add-ons. You may just be surprised how good they are the way they came from the factory. If you have a handling issue it could be worn out saggy rear springs. Tail draggers tend to push in the corners.(understeer)Welcome to the Forum! Bob
 
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I agree with Bob. Get to know your car first. Don't compare it to "modern" sportscars....it's not. It is a high revving engine, and will be very happy at 4500-5000 rpm.

Change all of the fluids. The transmission uses motor oil. Really no need for a big brake kit on a stock MGB.

The Armstrong shocks are very adequate for the MGB/GT...as are the dual SU carbs.

You do not want a rear sway bar in a chrome bumpered MMGB.

The poly bushes can indeed be an enhancement, in my opinion.

I also recommend that you find a local MG or British Car Club and join it...and be sure to join the North American MGB Register as well.

https://www.namgbr.org/index

(There is also a listing of local clubs on NAMGBR's website...and when you join, you receive a yearly "Mutual Aid Directory" of member recommended mechanics, helpful members, etc.)

Welcome to the insanity.
 
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scotmont

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This is GREAT. I knew that you all would talk me out of some unnecessary spending. : )
It seems to me that I do need fresh springs and rebuilt stock shocks.
Keep it coming guys.
Thank you.
scot
 

AngliaGT

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Scot,

Where are you located in California?

- Doug
 

DrEntropy

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Welcome aboard, Scot.

You have a good base to work from, Bob, et al, beat me to the post so I'll say: "Yeah, what HE (THEY) said!"

What you have is a nearly bullet-proof vehicle when in standard trim, the poly bushings may be about the only non-standard item to use. They improve reaction a bit (stiffer than standard ones).

Doing the front-end refurb can become a bit more than just R&R lower bushings if the PO neglected regular grease treatment. Just be prepared to find you may need lower A-arms and/or kingpin bushings too.
 

AngliaGT

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Scot,

If you want to PM me,I can put you in contact with
other GT owners in your general area.
Also,you're welcome to join us on our car runs up here
in Eureka.Drew will be posting pictures of our last one we
did on Saturday.

- Doug
 
OP
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scotmont

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Thanks for the friendly introduction. In terms of shop manuals, the car came with a "Haynes automotive repair manual" and a "British Leyland" Workshop Manual.
These look well used and very informative.
What should I expect to pay to have a professional put in the new poly bushings front and back?
I'm hoping that the "bones" of the suspension are still good. It just feels really floaty when swerving left to right. Pretty soft feeling. I'm going to go with springs and rebuilt lever shocks. I'll see where that gets me.
What do you all think about the performance cam shaft offered through Mossmotors. It's not a race cam but offers a little more power. Anybody have any experience with this upgrade?
thanks again.
scot
 

Steve_S

Yoda
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I have to agree with pretty much everything above. In stock form and properly maintained, an MGB is no slouch in the handling and ride department. My '67 BGT is one of the most comfortable and well handling cars I've ever owned and it's basically stock.

Rubber bushings are fine for general driving but the quality of the current replacements is suspect. They don't tend to last more than a year or two. Polyurethane bushings will offer a slightly stiffer ride but locate the body over the suspension much better, which means less body sway and better steering response. If you want to keep the ride a little softer, you can install V8 lower front bushings and do the rest in polyurethane. My preference for poly bushings is Superflex. They are very high quality, come with stainless steel pivot inserts where necessary and each bushing position is manufactured with the appropriate shore rating (stiffness) for its application - soft where ride can be improved and stiff where performance can be increased.

Rebuilt shocks from Worldwide (as mentioned above) will transform the ride and handling of the car. These should be installed when you do the bushings. Shocks and bushings aren't a huge job, maybe two hours of labor for a professional MG mechanic. I am not a fan of tube shocks on MGBs, especially on the front. Rear kits tend to place the tube shock in a less than ideal angle because there is little room to fit the shock at all. In the front, a tube shock will only introduce more complexity and weight unless you go for a complete suspension design change, which is available but expensive.

Carbs: Keep the SUs. In my opinion, a Weber will only perform better at wide open throttles, as in racing situations. I have triple 45s on my C but the rest of the MGs have SU carbs.

Stock brakes are more than up to the job. Many racers are using the stock design without issues as well. Slotted and drilled rotors may improve cooling and gas venting but reduce surface area and introduce the possibility of cracks. If you drive a lot of downhill canyon roads at high speeds then you may want to look into EBC Green Stuff pads to reduce fade. Otherwise the stock type pads are perfect for general driving, in my opinion.

If you really want to spend money to make your car faster and safer, spend it on a performance driving school! I'm constantly amazed how easily my stock 43-year-old MGB GT can blow the doors off brand new and much faster cars in my local canyons. Last week a brand new 5-series drifted clear across into the wrong lane three times while trying to outrun me during my commute home in the local mountains. Eventually I backed way off because I was afraid he was going to kill someone. Powerful engines and fat tires don't make a car fast. :wink:
 

DNK

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I'd watch that California bunch. They're a Wiley group
 

davester

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I can't add too much to what my compatriots above have already said. My general advice would be to get everything restored to new tolerances and you'll probably see quite an improvement.

Worldwide shocks would be best, I'd stick with high quality rubber (Quinton Hazell) and get MGBGT V8 bushings for the lower control arms. I've been the Moss tube shock conversion route and it was not a pleasant experience...transformed the ride from smooth and comfortable to bone-rattling unpleasant, mostly due to the rears. My understanding is that the best general principle is to tighten up the front a little and keep the rear soft.

Forget about the weber for street use. It won't give you any significant performance over the SUs and will have its own set of problems. There's a very high chance that your SUs have worn throttle shafts and bushings, which will play havoc with trying to tune them. Check this by spraying carb cleaner around the shafts...if the engine speed changes then you probably need to have them rebushed and rebuilt, which will make a world of difference.

I think the only mods I'd make to the braking system would be to change out the rubber hoses and install carbon kevlar pads at the front.

It sounds as though you're itching for other mods. I'd suggest that you look into having the dizzy rebuilt and converted to solid state and a performance coil put in. Chances are good that your current dizzy is a bit out of spec. The only logical place to have this done is https://www.advanceddistributors.com/

My local Berkeley MG mechanic's shop is now defunct. I have bought parts at, and visited British Car Repair in San Rafael and was impressed by their operation and knowledge, so I wouldn't hesitate to take my car there if need be. Note that there's a local MG owner's club that is very active. Talk to them about shops in SF. https://www.mgoc.org/club_officers_and_advisors_contact_info
 
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scotmont

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That all is very helpful. Thank you Davester. Yes I know that my car is in desperate need of a tune up, and have the carb's rebuilt. On my last (first) fill up I had a fantastic 9 mpg. I could've been driving around a Ferrari for heavens sake.
I'll look into all of these wonderful tips.
Thank you.
Do you think it's hard to find someone that can rebuild these SU carbs with confidence?
 
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scotmont said:
Do you think it's hard to find someone that can rebuild these SU carbs with confidence?

Hap Waldrop of Acme Speed Shoppe (an advertiser here on the BCF)

or

Jimmy Hilton of Texas.
 

DrEntropy

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Well, opinions are like freedom "parts" but Joe is th' first "Go_to Guy" and Hap W as well. If ya wanna know more, do a search here.

We're of some prejudice, but not without reason. Really.
 
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DrEntropy said:
Well, opinions are like freedom "parts" but Joe is th' first "Go_to Guy" and Hap is the silly NEXT-BEST. If ya wanna know more, do a search here.

We're of some prejudice, but not without reason. Really.

Mea Culpa...I neglected to mention Joe Curto, one of the known SU gurus.

I would send my carbs to any of the three gentlemen mentioned in this thread.

Jimmy Hilton did the carbs on both of my MGCs.
 

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DrEntropy

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J. Curto and Hap have likely forgotten more about SU's than most here ever knew. :wink:
 
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