New Front Hubs, Rotors and Bearings on BJ8

[stever]

I am about to install new hubs, brake rotors and wheel bearings to my phase II BJ8. As I have never done this before, I have a few questions regarding this activity. First is about the wheel bearing seal: Do you just slide this seal up onto the axle shaft and press it against the base? Or is it pressed into the hub body? Or, am I missing the whole thing? Note that the later BJ8's have a piece of metal that appears much like a bearing race that encircles the axle spindle and is flush against the axle stub assembly base to make a flat surface- this part is not in the Moss diagram (or at least I cannot find it).
Second question regards the bearing races. Is there any tricks to seating these races? The inner one looks simple enough but the outer one is way deep inside the outer part of the hub. I intend to fit the bearings, spacer and shims "dry" to determine the proper amount of shims and then dismantle and reassemble with grease. Any suggestions on this little project are very welcome. thanks in advance!

 

[Jerry]

I just finished this last weekend. The rubber seal goes into the hub at the end towards the brake dust cover. The open end of the seal faces the grease (inside the hub). The bearing races can best be put in with a seal driver. You can buy a good enough set at Harbor Freight, or any tool supply place. The plastic ones don't last. Put some grease on them and drive them into place. Fitting the shims and stuff is exactly like in the book. Put some spray lithium grease on the bearings when fitting so they are not too dry.

Jerry
late BJ8 also

 

[Ed Kaler]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Put some spray lithium grease on the bearings when fitting so they are not too dry. [/QUOTE]

NO, as Manual says "lightly OIL".

Ed

 

[Randy Forbes]

Trick with bearing races: put the races in a freezer for a couple of days (deep-freeze if you have one). Heat the hub up to 350 degrees and the races will drop into place__NO hammer required.

DO make certain the races are oriented correctly before dropping them into place.

 

[stever]

Hey, Randy, that suggestion of yours sounds like a good idea to me! I already had the bearings in the freezer, but I imagine heating the hubs/rotors in the kitchen oven for a few minutes at 350 degrees sure wouldn't hurt anything, would it? The ones I have are new so they don't have any grease/oil/grunge to upset the wife... Why is it that wives are so easily upset, anyway???? Thanks for the ideas, guys!

 

[Jerry]

Ed,

Why not lithium grease vs oil? They both lubricate, and the goal is just to keep the bearings from being dry while you fit the shims?

Jerry

 

[Ed Kaler]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Why not lithium grease vs oil? They both lubricate, and the goal is just to keep the bearings from being dry while you fit the shims?[/QUOTE]

Jerry, I would surmise that AFTER you have your "shim stack" correct and you then DIS-assemble the hub (remove bearings to pack) the lithium grease would <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-size: 14pt"><span style="color: #CC0000">NOT</span></span></span> be compatible with the moly-grease you ARE packing the bearing with?!?! :hammer:
Whereas, obviously the oil <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="color: #009900"><span style="font-size: 14pt">IS</span></span></span> compatible. :angel:

Ed

 

[stever]

OK, so far so good, however, I have come to two interesting things. First: After you figure out the shims and get the bearing seal in, etc. how do you "pack the bearings" and the inside of the hub with grease? Do you just rub in as much as you can into the bearings and then stuff as much into the hub and grease cap as you can?

Second: My new rotors are a bit thicker than the original ones. The new ones are 1/2 inch thick and the older ones are 7/16 inch thick. The brake calipers don't want to fit over the new rotors..... My car is a later BJ8 - 65. I bought the Brembo rotors for a later BJ8, but didn't measure them before putting them on. I suppose I could just have the older ones resurfaced and go on, but what gives with this???

 

[GregW]

Hi Steve,
I used a bearing packer that can be found at your local auto parts store.

As for the brake disc, I have a vague recollection there were two thicknesses. .375"? for earlier cars, but the later BJ8s had .5" thick discs. I wonder if you just need to spread the pistons a little more to fit.

 

[stever]

Hi, Greg, Thanks for the great idea on the bearing packer. I will get one today. So, you use the "packer tool" to stuff grease into the bearings, but do you add more grease into the hub? After that then, do you stuff a lot more grease into the hub? Sometimes it is the basic stuff that drives me nuts!

Regarding the rotors: I bought Brembo rotors for the later phase II BJ8 - which is what my car is. My car is #28308 which is a later model than the changeover point according to the Moss catalogue. The Moss catalogue lists the changeover to the later rotors at #26705 (part number 021-171). I used a lever and spread the calipers as far as they would go and it just isn't quite enough to get the brake pad to slide in. I suppose it is possible that my car has an earlier caliper? I have owned it since 1972, but they could have been changed out earlier maybe? Weird. Not very likely that the car got the earlier ones through the assembly line is it?

 

[Randy_Gay]

Steve,
If your stub axles have the extra piece that the inner seal rides against then it's the later car. You can also look at the body of the caliper for a number. Yours should say P16 or something like that. Also if the caliper bracket is built into the stub axle it's a later car.

Regards,
Randy

 

[bob hughes]

I would hardly think that some one would go back to the earlier model G14s when the G16s are better. But in life, as with the Healeys, anything is possible. Check the marks on the calipers, they should indicate what you have.

Bob

 

[GregW]

Hi Steve,
Are the calipers hooked up to the brake system? If so, you may want to open the reservoir to see if it's too full. Might have to suck some fluid out to keep it from overflowing. That may be why the pistons won't open far enough. Easiest to fix anyway.

 

[AJAX50]

With the last BJ8's the brake caliper bolts directly to the hub. There is no metal bracket between them. I think it is these hubs that have the later g16 claipers and 1/2" discs.

 

[stever]

Thanks for the comments! I will go take a close look at these calipers. They bolt to the stub axle assembly with two bolts that have smaller threaded extensions that are used to mount the metal bracket that supports the flex hose connection to the caliper. They look just like the calipers and hubs that are indicated on the Moss online catalogue that says "Front Disc Brakes, BJ8 From (c)26705 On" which is what it should be. Took a look at the earlier parts and they don't look the same. Sure seems like it is a possible candidate for Greg's idea!! I will be so happy if it is! Thanks a bunch.

 

[Jerry]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJYIXZtnIiw

Here is a great video on putting in new bearings. It is on an MG but looks the same .

 

[stever]

Well, guys, I inspected the calipers, rotors and hub assembly and determined that, indeed, they are the later and proper(as expected) parts. Therefore, the problem was that the caliper pistons were not far enough into the bores to allow the pads to be installed. I followed your advice and opened the reservoir and made sure that the fluid would not spill out and used a lever to move the pistons. Sure enough, they moved out enough to install the pads. Problem solved. I do appreciate your assistance! It sure is a good deal to have knowledgeable people to ask advice!! Thank you all again for taking the trouble to help me out! Jerry, I cannot open 'youtube' right now. I will look at the video this evening and make sure that I did it OK. Thank you very much!!

 

[Ed Kaler]

First Stever, CONGRATS!! :banana:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I followed your advice and opened the reservoir and made sure that the fluid would not spill out and used a lever to move the pistons. Sure enough, they moved out enough to install the pads. Problem solved.[/QUOTE]
And there folks is the "Perfect" lesson:
Do NOT fill the system until the entire project is
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="color: #009900"><span style="font-size: 14pt">COMPLETE</span></span></span> !! :hammer:

Ed

 

[Jerry]

Go to Youtube and search for University MOtors. He has about 55 videos on repairing MGs that relate very well to our Healeys also.

Jerry

 

[stever]

Thanks a bunch, guys. I have been postponing this little project for a long time as I don't really have much free time it seems these days and I just knew that I would have lots of problems and all that..... So, here it is just about ready to put the road wheels back on and give it a try! I have learned a lot from doing the project. It would have been a lot "lonelier" without you all and your support while doing it and I thank you sincerely for your help, assistance and good will!