Need Steering Wheel Removal Help

[doates]

Hi,

When I reinstalled my steering column I did not pay attention to the alignment of the steering wheel (1/4 turn off) so I would like to fix this by removing the steering wheel and rotating it. I have tried many of the techniques suggested in previous threads with no success.

1)Tried to tighten the nut a little before removing. I did not feel any movement in the nut.

2)No where to really swing a hammer or hit the steering hub because my dash is finished.

3)Tried to brute force it but felt like I was just going to bend the spokes.

4)Put the nut back on and whacked it but I guess it wasn't on far enough and I buggered up the threads. Can't get the nut back on. Now I have to remove it to run a die down the rod.

5)Soaked with penetrant, pulled on the wheel with my knees while whacking the rod with a nylon hammer. Wore out the hammer.

6)Made a light gauge puller, used two bolt holes that hold the spokes - bent the puller. The bolt holes are not centered on the steering rod so I wasn't getting a straight pull. If I had pulled any harder I think it would have stripped the bolt holes in the aluminum casting. The steering wheel pullers sold commercially require two bolt holes in alignment with the center.

7)Bought a harmonic damper puller hoping that I could get three of the holes to work; this would center the pull but no luck.

It has been soaking with penetrant for a couple of days now maybe it will pop off today. I guess I could make another puller that captures three of the holes.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks....Dennis

 

[TRDejaVu]

You don't specify which car you have, so I don't know how much of a job this would be.

You will need to consider that the turn signal cancelling doo-hicky (technical term) on the upper shaft can only be in one position to work.

Why not just remove it again and free the steering wheel anyway on the bench so that it is easier for next time? Then ensure that the steering rack is properly centered and re-install everything correctly.

 

[Rhodyspit75]

The way to remove it is to leave the nut on but loose. Sit in the seat and pull up on the wheel evenly as hard as you can. Have someone hit the shaft with a heavy hammer at least 3 pounds. Give it a good rap. I should pop.
Since you can't get the nut on now, try it with the nut off. Just remember when it pops you will quickly go backwards, don't want to hit yourself in the face with the wheel.
Ian is right about the turn signal cancel . Once you get the wheel off you may want to retrace you steps and figure ou how you ended up 1/4 turn out and correct it.

 

[dklawson]

I have seen previous threads that suggest tightening nuts prior to loosening them. However, I've never seen this mentioned with regard to a steering wheel nut. I think this is a particularly bad idea for a steering wheel hub. There is typically a taper lock between the column and hub in addition to the splines. Over-tightening the assembly will make it that much harder to take apart. However, that is now watter under the bridge.

I'm not sure where you were trying to strike the hub with a hammer that you were worried about the dash. Hammer blows should be aimed straight down the center of the hub towards the nut threaded loosely on the column.

Given what you've tried and what appears to be a very stuck hub, and a column with damaged threads, I'll offer the following suggestion.
You say the nut is off and the shaft threads are damaged. OK. Fit your puller to the hub again (even if the puller is bent). Remember that your puller should straddle the opening in the hub and a spacer block or similar will need to be between the backside of the puller and the steering column. The puller plate should NOT bottom out against the hub. You want there to be a gap between the puller and the hub so the whole assembly is under tensile load. (The puller should be trying to push the column out of the hub). Tighten your puller to get a good preload on the assembly. Then sitting in the car, put your knees behind the steering wheel and pull them towards your chest to further preload the assembly. (Again, your puller is trying to push the shaft out of the hub, and your knees are trying to pull the hub toward you). Now strike the puller plate right on center where it contacts the steering column. Be prepared for a large CRACK and be mentally prepared to defend your face as the parts fly off.

Ideally you should have tried something similar to this with the nut loose on the column so the threads were protected. With the nut loose on the column you do not have to worry about the wheel flying off and hitting you in the face.

 

[KVH]

On my 4A, to straighten the steering wheel, or to align it square and pretty, I have to loosen the lower coupling, down by the rack, and slide the column up, then fit it back down in the correct thread slots.

In looking at the manual and the Moss diagrams, maybe there are two ways to do this? What I do seems easier, at least to me.

 

[dklawson]

Doates did not mention which car this was for. Regardless, the method KVH used on the TR-4 should work very well. Loosening the lower joint is a great idea.

However, at this point, Doates also reported that the column threads were damaged and he could no longer fit "the nut". So... the wheel really needs to come off to address this.

I do not know the thread size/pitch of the Triumph steering columns. However, when you do get the wheel off, do not be upset if you find it to be an unusual size that you cannot get a die for. Instead, measure the thread pitch and buy yourself a thread file. The thread file will allow you to restore the column enough to re-fit the nut. Thread files have helped me many times to salvage unusual threaded parts that would otherwise have to be scrapped.

 

[atgordon]

On a TR6, the thread is 9/16 UNS (S for special). Machinery's Handbook says that the thread is 27TPI. There are dies out there to cut/restore this thread but they are VERY expensive ($50 is the cheapest I could find). I would use a UNF thread repair file (use the 28TPI face) to dress the threads as best you can.

I do not know the thread size/pitch of the Triumph steering columns. However, when you do get the wheel off, do not be upset if you find it to be an unusual size that you cannot get a die for. Instead, measure the thread pitch and buy yourself a thread file. The thread file will allow you to restore the column enough to re-fit the nut. Thread files have helped me many times to salvage unusual threaded parts that would otherwise have to be scrapped.

 

[doates]

Thanks for all the help.

Is this what you are talking about?


https://www.amazon.com/External-Thread-Restorer-File-Pitch/dp/B000VXIXUK/ref=pd_cp_hi_2



Never used one so at least I will learn something out of this. Did not get to work on it yesterday; life (read wife) got in the way so I still need to get the steering wheel off.

Thanks Again...Dennis

 

[Darrell_Walker]

It looks like it. I've never used one, so I found this page on how to use them:

https://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-tools/thread-file/

 

[Rhodyspit75]

Depending on how many threads are damaged you may be able to fix it quite easily. As long as you have an undamaged thread showing when you tighten the nut you are OK.
As best you can, smooth out the damaged threads with a file. Then get another steering wheel nut and using a small 3 point file make four grooves in the threads of the nut 90 degrees apart. Try to make the nut look like a threading die. You can use this to chase the threads just like running a die over them. Work slowly and use oil.
You can use the same principle to repair internal threads by doing the same thing to a bolt.

 

[atgordon]

You need to ensure that you have a 28TPI face ... this seems to be OK for this task. Thread File FINE

Thanks for all the help.

Is this what you are talking about?


https://www.amazon.com/External-Thread-Restorer-File-Pitch/dp/B000VXIXUK/ref=pd_cp_hi_2



Never used one so at least I will learn something out of this. Did not get to work on it yesterday; life (read wife) got in the way so I still need to get the steering wheel off.

Thanks Again...Dennis

 

[dklawson]

Yes, the two links above show thread files like I was talking about.

I have on occasion had to use the thread chasing method described by RhodySpit75. Then again, when I have had no "spare nuts" and no thread files, I have resorted to hand chasing the threads with a 3-sided needle file. It is time consuming and requires a bit of care but is easily done.

 

[doates]

Thanks for all the responses. I have worked a lot this week so I haven't spent anytime on the steering wheel. This has given me time to ponder how I got it on crooked - I haven't driven it enough to pay attention to whether the turn signal canceling doo-hicky works or not. So now that I have buggered the threads I have to take the wheel off, but I suspect that I am going to wind up taking the steering rod out of the coupling and adjusting the steering wheel there. I am hoping that the NAPA on my way home will have a thread file tonight.

I will update with any progress

Dennis

 

[Andrew Mace]

Dennis, if this is the Spitfire listed in your profile, you should be able to remove just the upper part of the inner column by undoing the clamp inside the car: it's numbers 9-13 in this diagram from Canley Classics.

 

[doates]

Yes, same '70 Spit that I have been working on forever. It has been so long since I put the steering back together I have forgotten how far I took it apart. But it is almost back on the road now and I am working on it with enthusiasm again.

I guess I should work on an avatar.

Thanks for the diagram; that looks much easier than taking it apart at the coupling at the steering box.

Dennis

 

[doates]

Hooray!

Finally got the steering wheel off; had to remake a puller that pulled on three of the spoke holes and backed it up with the store bought puller. It took a fair amount of force to break it free. The splines are in good shape, not rusty, is this a good spot for anti-seize?

I straightened the wheel by using the clamp inside so now my turn signal canceller is lined up correctly. I have run the thread file over the threads and they look pretty good but I still can't get the nut started, upside down, where I know the threads are not damaged. I am hoping that my local NAPA has a new nut but I doubt it.

I also discovered that my column mount overdrive switch has a wire that came off. This might have taken me awhile to trace out.

Thanks for all the help

Dennis

 

[doates]

An update.

I got my new steering wheel nuts from VB today and it screwed on by hand. I guess the old one was screwed up. I ordered 2 assuming that I was going to need to turn one of them into a die; I bet if I only ordered 1 would have.

Anyway, Thanks for all the help - I learned from this.

Dennis

 

[toysrrus]

Howdy Folks,

I`m at this stage that I`ll be removing my the Steering Wheel off my `57TR3. Everthing is apart & ready to go. I`ve flooded the large nut and anywhere else I could see that may hold the wheel back with "PB Blaster". Before I go & start "Beating" things to death; What recommendations would you have here to pull the steering wheel? I`m not trying to save the wheel as I have a nice replacement for it!!

"ALSO"; I have the "Trafficer Tube" out. Whats the "Magic Trick" to getting the Old Wiring Harness out of there? Any & All suggestions are appreciated. I`m looking to "BUY" a "NICE" Turn Signal / Horn Trafficer Ass`y. should someone out there have one!

Thanx in Advance,

Russ

 

[hondo402000]

how about turning the steering wheel all the way to the left in the locked position, then get a ratchet and socket on the nut and put a cheater bar on the ratchet and I bet then the nut will loosen up then.

Hondo

 

[TR3driver]

Call me chicken, but I'm leery of applying that much force to the steering box. I would at least try first using just the ratchet and holding the wheel with the other hand.

The wires should just pull out from the steering wheel end, after taking the other end loose from the harness and laying it out lined up with the tube. If not, the simplest route may be to just replace both tube and wires. If they are that badly stuck, chances are that the tube is corroded and weak anyway.