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MGB-GT My MGB GT Project

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BryanB

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I'm relatively new to this forum and have just bought a '70 B GT from a member here. I intend to restore/uprate the car, but I haven't really nailed down specifically where I am going with the car. I think that I'd like to have a fast road/track day type car. I'm not looking to build a dedicated racer just yet but I would like to make the car as competent as possible. First I have to fix the rust issues that the car has.

I was hoping that someone could tell me what to look for when disassembling a B GT. The rust in the and couple spots in the floor are the only obvious issues as far as I can determine. The car is pretty straight and it drives. So far I've stripped the interior and I'm looking for a professional to weld in replacement rockers.

I've included the image from the seller's posting and will post more pictures in short order.

showfull.php
 
I think the first thing you need to do before disassembling is to decide what you want to do with the car....then, were it me & I were a novice, I'd drive it for some time to get to know it while I did my research on the marque.

I've seen too many cars bought by people new to the hobby that were quickly disassembled and then, once the expense and nature of the restoration hit them, as quickly abandoned.

If its not about to fold in half from the rust, wnjoy it as long as you can while you read, listen, ask questions and learn what and how to take it to the next level.

But, if you really want specifics, I can tell you how to do it!
 
I second that. My First (second) MG was a Midget. I drove it for about 100 miles and figured let me "restore" this body. Did'nt happen. The '74 I currently have has rust issues. I got her running, did up all the suspension and put in a decent used interior. I drive the pants off of this car and it is a blast. I've almost afraid to work on the rust issues as I'm going to miss the driving but I'll tell ya, now that all the mechinical bugs are worked out, it' be easier to address the rust as at least I know when I put it all back together she'll be practically a new car.

Get it running as good as you can afford. Rebuild the front and rear suspension and have some fun. Once it's tip top wait till winter and work on the body. You'll be thanking us for it.

Welcome to the forum and post often. There a million years of experience here so all you need to do is ask. I can't tell you how many times guys like Tony and Doc have come to my rescue.

Cheers
Vince
 
I must side with Tony... DRIVE it for a bit to see if it's a good "fit" for you before diving into making it a project... Not that I'm one to to listen to: I'd be pulling it down to component bits on receipt. BUT: I've nearly forty years of history with 'em and know what to do to modify one to MY particular expectations.


Get a feel for the thing as a transporter before you jump into it as a major project.

<span style="font-style: italic">
EDIT: VInny beat me to th' post...</span> :laugh:
 
Yes...yes I did :smile:. New blood same as the old blood just a little quicker.

Just don't want to see another go to the crusher as a failed project. We've all seen it happen.
 
MGBs rust from the inside out, so rust is generally worse than what you see.

Having said that; virtuially every panel is available. It could end up like a Heathkit. I wish I had 1/4 of the body parts available for my 1973 BMW 3.0s that are available for my B.

Like I said, virtuially all parts are readily available for the body. However, the body is welded together, so you will need that skill. I took a night class at a local technial high school to learn how to weld. That was before there were inexpensive MIG welderthat was never intended, in Syd Enever's, John Thornley's or anyone elses mind meant to last this long.

But if you are like us, have a passion for the marque, by all means, go for it. It's a lot of fun.

This is not meant to discourage anyone. Just want you to go into this with your eyes open. I've seen too many jump in head first; then the car sits under a tree for years, because someone can't get #1 condition price for what is scrap metal, stating in the process "G!@#$%n MGs!!!"

Colin
 
Don't let this happen to you!

Before...
0069sidemidget6.jpg


After
11-24-06-EndoftheMidget013.jpg
 
WOW!! Was that little RWA Midget really that rusty when you got into it?
 
The only rust I was planning on fixing the short term was the right rocker/sill. It's pretty bad and as the sills are structural has worried. All it trully needs to be back on the road is a gas tank, and I'm looking to see where I can get the best price on one of those.

thanks for all the responses

Bryan
 
On a GT, you have the advantage of a roof, so your car's not goung to split in half anytime soon.

The sills pretty much run the length of the car between the wheels. in other words, they terminate just behind the front wheel & just in front of the rear. There is an outer sill; you see a bit of this outside under the door. The inner panel, which is a fairly flat item just behind the outer sill, sits vertically. Same length. A Castle Setion, running horizontaly between the outer sill/vertical panel & inner sill. Again, same length. Jacking point, jacking point reinforvement & a little plug for the rear. All welded in. You will also need a rear dogleg repair & remove the front fender or put another patch panel in after you cut out the bottom of the fender to gain access.

Moss sells the kit, minus the 2 patch panels for around $350 I think.

You may want to look at Lindsay Porter's MGB restoration book. That's what I used.

Colin
 
Sadly it was. Both rockers, part of the floor, both fenders, both quarters in back and up and around. The trunk floor was starting to go and there were spots here and there where dust had collected, got wet, turned to mud and started the process. When I looked at what I had, I realized I could buy a new one for what I'd spend rebuilding it.
 
From what I can determine the car is going to need some work done to it before I can put it on the road. The brake lights don't work and neither do the headlights. I've yet to determine the reason for either of those problems.

I've not actually had the car driving but for about 100 yards. The drivetrain feels strong, but the brakes are definately shot, which seemed apparent just from visual inspection.

I'm planing on rolling it out the garage sometime today or tomorrow to take pictures of it.

There are no worries of me giving up on this project after I take this car apart. I'd sooner buy another B that needs a new drivetraing and swap this one in than throw the towel in and admit defeat.

I am looking for a shop to weld the sills/rockers for me. As I'm in no particular hurry and plan on taking as much time as I need to get this car back to it's former glory the cost and hassle of the restoration shouldn't be a huge issue.

After a bit of thought on the subject I think my best plan of action is to fix the glaring issues with the car, those being the lights and the right rocker and to get a new gas tank, put it on the road for a couple of months and then begine the process of uprating it. If that seems like a less than stellar course to take please say so. If I felt comfortable throwing a fuel tank in it and putting on the road, I would, but in it's current state that seems like it would be mistake.

I appreciate all the advice you guys have to offer. thanks.

Bryan
 
The list is a great place to start. I've used it on three cars and all have been sucessful. If the gas tank is not perforated, I'd think about having it boiled, etched and sealed. The newer tanks are not as sturdy as the original. A good radiator shop should be able to do it for you.
 
Tony,

Will do. I'm told you're the expert, so I'll heed your advice. If the sills truly are negligible at this point than I'll try not to let them worry me. Truth be told, it's hard for me to not be concerned. The car is remarkably straight and I just want it to stay that way, so rust in a structural area does have me somewhat concerned. Obviously it's something that I'm not loosing sleep over or I wouldn't have bought the car.

Thanks again

Bryan
 
Do the doors close solidly? Can you stand on the sill with the door open & the car not fold in half?

If those answers are 'yes', fix everything else while you drive it to get to knoe it.
 
I restored a 67 BGT 6years ago and found that the roof had rust on it with a couple of small bubbles coming through from the inside. The type of headliner padding used back then holds water like a sponnge causing the roof to rust. Check the outside top of the roof real carefully!!!!
 
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