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My B is moving under it's own power

DavidAGO

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For the first time! got it started and running roughly, but running on Friday, got the clutch and brakes bled on Saturday. the clutch is a bear to bleed. I had put on a new slave and master,and the slave had the inlet and the bleeder reversed, but I could not switch them and have it work, the high end where the bleeder should be did not have the bevel cut for the bleeder screw, so I had to unbolt the slave and hold it with the bleed screw up to get it to bleed. Now the fun stuff, sorting out all the little British gremlins. I have a long list, and at the top of it is getting the carb sorted. It came with a big honking Weber DCOE sticking out the side, and in the trunk was a new Weber downdraft with manifold. I still have the DCOE on it, but need to get rid of it, I am not smart enough to get it set up.

The engine compartment is a heinz 57 of parts; It came with a 25D distributor on, with a 45D4 and another unmarked dist in the trunk. It took the unmarked one with the electronic ignition out of the parts car, of unknown origin, to get a dist that worked. I have to sort out vac advance, and hope to eventually find some SU's somewhere and get back to what God intended for a British car.

The fun begins.

DavidAGO

MGBrunningpic001.jpg
[/img]

MGBrunningpic011.jpg


I forgot about photos the first time, had to get them uploaded to Photobucket
 

JPSmit

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woo hoo! first time is a milestone, congrats, now it is tuning.

(BTW pics please!)
 

mgbsteve137

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Congratulations!!! I would think this is a condition much to be desired. <GRIN>

I thought the clutch slave cylinder bleeder problem was a known issue and all that was necessary to fix it was to reverse the hose and bleeder connections. Check the Moss web site for their fix notes. Is it a Moss part?
 

PAUL161

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David, The DCOE is a much better carb than the downdraft, which is probably a 32/38. The 32/38 has a hesitation problem on acceleration which is difficult to get out. Some don't mind it and others just put up with it and some will swear by it! If the DCOE is in good order, I'd leave it on. Me personally, I'd put the SUs back on! JMHO. PJ
 

DrEntropy

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Going to the downdraught Weber is going frying pan to fire, IMO. Clean the DCOE inside and out before you condemn it. The manifold you're forced to use with the DCOE (due to the booster/master cyl.) is less efficient than the configuration shown in the BMC Competition Manual but still better than the one for the DGx, by far.

Valve lash adjusted correctly?

You might consider uncapping the crankcase vent and at the least routing it with a hose into a "spill bottle" of some sort, too.

British gremlins? Nahhh. Most issues with these things are as a result of jack-leg mechanics putting "good enuff" repairs on 'em.

The 45D dizzy would be my choice for ignition, shortest distance between the trunk and engine may be through shipping it to Advanced after talking with Peter about the DCOE and what you know about the engine's state of tune. Was the thing possibly cammed?
 
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DavidAGO

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mgbsteve137 said:
Congratulations!!! I would think this is a condition much to be desired. <GRIN>

I thought the clutch slave cylinder bleeder problem was a known issue and all that was necessary to fix it was to reverse the hose and bleeder connections. Check the Moss web site for their fix notes. Is it a Moss part?

I am not sure if it is a Moss part or not, but it was a known issue with me. The problem was that the proper place for the bleeder did not have the proper bevel cut in the bottom, so I could not switch the bleeder and hose and get a good seal, it would leak. I have it working now!

David AGO
 
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DavidAGO

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DrEntropy said:
Going to the downdraught Weber is going frying pan to fire, IMO. Clean the DCOE inside and out before you condemn it. The manifold you're forced to use with the DCOE (due to the booster/master cyl.) is less efficient than the configuration shown in the BMC Competition Manual but still better than the one for the DGx, by far.

Valve lash adjusted correctly?

You might consider uncapping the crankcase vent and at the least routing it with a hose into a "spill bottle" of some sort, too.

British gremlins? Nahhh. Most issues with these things are as a result of jack-leg mechanics putting "good enuff" repairs on 'em.

The 45D dizzy would be my choice for ignition, shortest distance between the trunk and engine may be through shipping it to Advanced after talking with Peter about the DCOE and what you know about the engine's state of tune. Was the thing possibly cammed?

Hummmm, who is this Peter and what wizardry does he perform? I also may have to learn about DCOE's, I do know the throttle cable linkup is a no-go, and the individual parts do not show up in my (older) Moss catalog. Wherer do I go to obtain proper weber parts?

David
 
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DavidAGO

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More pics [img:center]
MGBrunningpic012.jpg
[/img]

MGBrunningpic008.jpg


MGBrunningpic015.jpg


[img:center]
MGBrunningpic009.jpg
[/img]

The odometer shows 53,000 miles, that matches with the title I got with the car.

These B's have a lot more 'stuff' in them than my MGA's!

David
 

DrEntropy

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David said:
These B's have a lot more 'stuff' in them than my MGA's!

:lol:

Yeah, concessions to modernity. :wink:

My bad... I meant Jeff, not Peter, at Advanced. We'll find the contact info directly:

Advance Distributors...
17495 Marystown Road
Shakopee, MN 55379
(612)-804-5543

https://www.advanceddistributors.com/


As for Weber bits, if you're looking for cable and linkage, try bicycle brake cable. May need to MacGyver linkage. If you need jets and such, there are a few places. Google DCOE Weber and pick. :wink:
 
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