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T-Series Midget clutch slave where?

cindy in indy

Freshman Member
Offline
I have a 75 1500 Midget. Last week I found oily stuff on my new white left tennis shoe after a day of driving. After sitting a week, now I find I have no fluid in my clutch master cylinder. Where should I start my repairs? And where the heck is the slave located? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif (My repair books show the slave but not where it is located.) The rubber line from the master to the slave looks almost new (I have only had the car a few months), so I am slightly doubtful that is the problem. Should I just assume its the master (since my foot got leaked on) and mess with rebuilding/replacing that?
Thanks for any help you can give a girl that is frustrated that the weather is beautiful and the cute car is garage bound.
 

8NFord

Member
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Not too sure about the Midget (I have a 75 B), but my guess is that the slave cylinder should be on the opposite side that the starter is on. I would elect to get a rebuilt clutch master cylinder and start from there. You should make an attempt to bleed it prior to the install.
 

roofinwilly

Senior Member
Offline
Cind, I'm sure yours is the similar to my bugeye. The slave cylinder is located behind the starter, that is passenger side of transmission. Is your car RHD?
First check that you are loosing brake or clutch fluid. Then you'll have to rebuid the brake or clutch MC.
Then you'll have to get another nail job.
If you post this on the spridget site you'll get more precise responses. Keep tryin /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
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Hi Cindy,
on my 75 the slave is located on the drivers side, the best way to see it is to put the car on stands and look up from underneath, it is behind the starter. if you have fluid on your shoes then most likely you master cyl is leaking and running down the pedal. if your slave is leaking you will find spots under your car. My suggestion would be to replace the master clutch cylinder. be sure to bleed the master first then bleed the system. i use a mightyvac and teflon tape on the bleeder screw (to help seal the threads from leaking air) Good Luck and let us know how you make out.

Mark in vermont /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 

aeronca65t

Great Pumpkin
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....on my 75 the slave is located on the drivers side, the best way to see it is to put the car on stands and look up from underneath, it is behind the starter....

Just want to concur with Mark. My 1500 Midget (seen in the siggy below) is the same way that he has described (and always use safety stands when looking under any car).
I think the other fellows above may be taking about earlier non-1500 cars with the Austin-based engines such as the 1275, 1098 and 948 (the 1500 is actually a Triumph engine).
And I agree that it is likely to be the master cylinder. These can be rebuilt quite cheaply (with new seals) but about half the time the repair doesn't seem to work and they continue to leak. The cost of a new master cylinder is a lot more, but probably a good investment.
It's also worth looking carefully at the hose coming from the master cylinder and going down to the slave cylinder. The standard hose is a poor design made partly from plastic tubing....even good-looking ones often leak.
The MightyVac that Mark describes is a good tool, but not absolutely needed to bleed the system in your car....the "regular way" to bleed out the air has worked well for me.
 

Matthew E. Herd

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Two things: actually, he was referring to the "B Series" engine, which is in the MGB, but I am almost certain (it is from visual inspection, to say the least) it is derived from the A series in earlier midgets and all sprites.

Also, I feel that the manual method is superior to powerbleeding and have used both, but feel more confident about the 'good ole' fashioned way.' Definitely has yielded superior results in the past, and I've done quite a bit of bleeding lately (har har! What a terrible pun).
 
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