Looking for long term car storage advice

[TR4nut]

Well it looks like I'm going to be working out of the country for a while so I will be putting my TR4s in storage - one of them doesn't run anyway so I'm not too concerned, but the other is my driver so I'm looking for thoughts on good storage methods.

I've secured covered storage, it'll be hot but at least dry. I have a buddy who I think will be able to check from time to time and start up the TR4. I was thinking of just putting in a full tank of gas with some gas stabilizer and see what happens. Okay, or do I need more prep?

Brakes and clutch are Dot 5 - so whatever happens will have to happen I guess.

Probably be gone for 3 years, but I bet I'll still visit this site as it has been fun. Good news too is that I'll be in the UK for that time so will be hunting up all sorts of stuff to haul back with me..


Randy

 

[wingsandwheels]

I relocated for 2 years and left the TR6 home. It was in a dry, insulated garage. No problems starting after 2.5 years.

Here's what I did:

good clean & wax
Bleed brakes
New coolant
fresh oil change, Mobil 1 10w-40 motorcycle oil (supposedly better for storage)
"fogging oil" in the cylinders. Spray it in, turn the crank by hand 1/2 turn, spray again, replace plugs.
full fuel tank w/ Sta-Bil,
inflate tires to the maximum on the sidewall.

That's it. Worked for me.

If you are worried about mice, I'd put some traps or poison around. I've never had a problem, but I've seen what they can do to a stored car.

Good luck!

 

[GuyShark]

I simply remove the battery all together, and NOT start it every month. If you go thru the steps listed above for long-term storage, you don't want to 'undo' all that you've done every time you fire it up.

 

[Tomster]

Please put the car up on blocks to keep the tires from being ruined.
Warfarin under the seats for the mice

 

[wingsandwheels]

I forgot to add, I didn't start mine at all during its storage. Starting a car isn't a great idea unless you are sure that you will get the oil hot enough to boil off the moisture that is introduced into the oil when the car is cold. If you can't do that, better off not starting it.

As far as tires, my thinking is that the strain on the tires can be minimized by inflating them to theri maximum and is better that the strain on rubber suspension bushings at full droop for a few years. At least on the 6, the swingarm bushings bolts are supposed to be tightened w/ the car on its wheels, loaded. My car had one year old Vredesteins when I stored it a few years ago, they are fine, weren't even flat spotted.

 

[Guest]

Hey Randy,
I agree with the putting it up on blocks to take the load off the tires and springs. Just enough to allow the tires to barely touch the ground. Also, make sure that the car is completely dry (scuttle, etc.) and buy some of those large industrial sized dessicant bags and lay them on the floorboards. Have someone change them annually. Remove the battery from the car and use it somewhere else. Buy a new battery when you get home. Other than that, I wouldn't worry if you have it in a dry storage building. Don't let anyone keep opening the door to check on it. Leave it be.


Ooorrrrrr,
I'll keep it for you. hehehehe



Bill

 

[Geo Hahn]

Longest I have had it sit was 16 months. That was when my '4 week' paint job ran a little long. All I had done to prepare was remove the battery -- still it started right up.

When I intentionally stored it for a year I removed the battery, changed the oil & added StaBil. Only problem was the clutch 'froze' to the pressure plate/flywheel (easily fixed). That was in a dry location in a humid climate (like Houston might be).

 

[TR4nut]

Good advice. My buddy is a retired guy who offered check on it and fire it up occasionally, but I can see where that could be more of a pain than its worth. Besides, I should be able to visit my pets about once a year anyway to check things out.

The one issue difficult to avoid is gas drying out of the carbs, but I was thinking a full tank with StaBil is better than an empty one.

I mistyped completely on the brake fluid - I'm not DOT 5 silicone, I'm DOT 4 Castrol LMA. Houston is humid, no way to avoid that - would putting something like saran wrap/plastic under the m/c caps be worthless? The brakes won't be used, and anything to try to lock out the humidity would be a good idea in my mind.

Mice could be a problem - the front storage doors are not air or mice tight. I'm going to put the typical bait out there to keep the population hopefully in check, and make sure all my boxes of spare parts are as mouse and varmint unfriendly as possible. For the TR4, I was planning on putting the top and windows up, and a few dessicant bags could definitely help.

Hadn't thought of the blocks, but that sounds good too. Tires are brand new and it would be a shame to waste them.

And to your generous offer Bill, only if you trade me that TR6 of yours!

Randy

 

[Harry_Ward]

Sorry for the extra work but...

Storage For Three Years! Not sure if you have any additives in the gas where you live but with ethanol and MTBE at the end of three years all your going to have in your tank, carbs, and fuel lines is a white flaky residue after it eats up any rubber parts in your carbs. With ethanol stabil good for maybe three months and I'm told thats pushing it.

My opinion...
Drain the gas, add liquid stabil or equiv. to fuel tank and spray the inside of rhe fuel tank with deep creep or equiv. Run the engine and carbs dry while spraying Sea Foam Deep Creep Auto Marine Multiuse Petroleum or equivalent into the Carbs, Read the can! Take out each spark plug and spray some (alot) in each cylinder while turning the car over a couple of revs to spread it around (make sure ignition turned off NO SPARK while cranking flamable stuff might ignite). Replace spark plugs. Read the can!

I agree get the tires off the ground and support the car securely from under the frame.

I hate to use them but a full box of mothballs spread around the car will keep the mice away and don't forget the engine compartment they will eat the rubber boots off your clutch and brake cylinders first (mine still have the teeth marks).
Hopefully your friend can renew mothballs and spray the inside of the fuel tank every six months.

Remove the battery and sell it. It will be dead by the time you get back. When you get back you will probably need to drain the radiator, replace brake fluid, check brake and fuel lines for rust and replace where needed, and change the motor oil and filter.

Plug the exhaust pipe with something the mice can't chew threw. Not a pretty sight seeing mice chunks fly across the garage floor when you try to start it up. Not easy to get off the floor either.

And cover with a breathable cover to keep the dirt and dust off.

Or, give the car to someone you can trust and let them drive it around for the next three years.

Have a safe trip,
Harry
CT

 

[Guest]

[ QUOTE ]

Or, give the car to someone you can trust and let them drive it around for the next three years.




[/ QUOTE ]

Here, here....

I always wanted to see how a TR4 would do in the autocross.....

Bill

 

[TR4nut]

Bill- Foggedabodit!

Just tucked both TR4s and parts into the storage unit today - good at least to see everything in one place at the same time.

I have about a month and a half to get everything sorted and stored so not too bad a rush.

I think Harry's thoughts on the gas situation does have me down the route of blowing out everything before I go. My non-running project sat for about 5 years with old gas, the carbs were not a pretty sight.

Will be househunting in about a week and maybe if my unsuspecting wife doesn't catch on I can drift over to RevingtonTR's place and drool a little.

Thanks for all the good advice.
Randy