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GT6 Latest GT6 photos

JImEgan

Senior Member
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Just felt like posting some photos.
New valence panels made out of aluminum.

DSCN6349.jpg

DSCN6353.jpg


Jim
 

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
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Jim, that looks really great. Are you taking it to Day of Triumph on the 29th at Lars Anderson Museum?

Hope to see you there...
 
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J

JImEgan

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I still need to register it. Plan is to do it by then. Have been getting no end of "good natured" grief from Eric and Dan.

Jim
 

trrdster2000

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Jim, did you add a small scoop too your cold air intake on the outside of the front with a small wire mesh. Keeps out the bugs and at speed the air will not jump over the hole. so the scoop should be on the inside, toward the radiator to force air down the tube.
I did the same on the TR6.

Wayne
 
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JImEgan

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I did not, but like the idea.
Here is what it looks like now

DSCN6360.jpg


Jim
 

trrdster2000

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Nice, but you can see why a scoop and wire would be a benefit.

I would also shave the edge off the pipes. Or add the scoop to each pipe, making one longer than the other.

Wayne
 

UltimateQuestion

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Very nice looking engine bay. Something I need to do on mine. Any pictures/thoughts on making the aluminium valences? Did you use the cardboard ones for templates?
 
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J

JImEgan

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I used architectural .040" anodized aluminun sheet for the panels. The angle is 1"x1"x.063" made on a sheet matal brake and yes, panels were copied from the original cardboard valences. A better material for the panels would .040" mill finish. I had to slightly glass bead blast the panels so the paint would have a rougher surface to adhere to. I have an eight 8' brake and shear, so cutting up a 4'x8' sheet of material was not a problem. Find a sheet metal shop near you that can shear the panel to square dimensions needed, then you can finish the cutouts with compound action tin snips. You will need left and right hand cutting as well as straight cuting.I have a spare right hand side and can get some dimensions as well as photos of it before paint.

Jim
 

trrdster2000

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Jim, Well done, that should take care of it. You may be able to tell when the pressure is forcing some air down the carbs, kind of a little kick. Mine happens at 45 MPH.

Wayne
 
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JImEgan

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I like it. Two things I would do differently: add a M22x1.5 bung for fan sensor on top of radiator to left of fill neck and brackets for electric fan. I am returning radiator to Griffen Radiator in fall to have them do this.
 
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JImEgan

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When I repainted the spare wheel and got a new tire, I did not want to crank the securing nut down so much that the tire would get marks where the 3 spacers contacted it. I came up with this. It allows me to tighten the nut enough so that the wheel won't shift, but not enough to leave marks. I am sure that I must have seen something similar elsewhere, but don't remember where.
Lug-lock7.jpg
 
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JImEgan

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One last thing for tonight. I got a high torque starter and did not like having two solenoids: the original and the one on the starter. I used a relay to go from the igntion wire and supply 12 volts to the integral solenoid and to coil. I disassembled the old solenoid and converted it to a terminal block with the use of plexiglass
NewBatteryConnections13.jpg

BatteryCableClamp2.jpg
 

dklawson

Yoda
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Your starter looks very much like the one I recently installed on our GT6. I am very pleased with ours. It is a great improvement that I wish I had done years ago.

I like the custom solenoid/junction-box. Our car originally had the round pushbutton solenoid. When it died I needed a replacement quickly and fitted the Ford Mustang solenoid. It doesn't look original but it works and was certainly less expensive and readily available.
 

svtmikey

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That is exceptional......very nice work!!!

Mikey
 
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