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Kwiklift

TRMark

Jedi Knight
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I am considering buying a kwiklift. Has anybody used one? I was considering a 4 post but they take alot of room and would require modification to my garage door and heating system. I would be able to work better around this than the posts.

www.kwiklift.com
 
There have been a few threads about lifts. Try a search. No experience personally.

Bruce
 
I have owned a Kwiklift for about three years. It is a well constructed product and provides comfortable room to work under the car on a creeper.

The only possible drawback is that I cannot bring the ramps close enough to safely drive my Bugeye on the lift. Works great for the big Healey and Corvette.
 
If you have the budget but not the room for a full lift, consider single post lifts. I am about to install mine!

M1-1.jpg
 
[ QUOTE ]
If you have the budget but not the room for a full lift, consider single post lifts. I am about to install mine!

[/ QUOTE ]

What do you have or plan to have for a solid footing? Been think about this but my garage has only 4 inches of concrete slab.

Bruce
 
I've a Quiklift & a 4-post left...the Quiklift is great for getting under a car...be sure to get the 2 'saddles' so you can jack a car up on it....kinda hard to see, but here it is:

whitegtwheels01.JPG
 
Better photo

tour08.JPG
 
the quicklift is awesome, I much prefer standing under the car now that I have a 4post. But its hard to beat a quicklift for SAFELY working under your car.

Depending on the type of work you are doing, you may want to consider a scissor lift, fairly limited under the car access with them but for under the car motor work and oil changes and the like, they are pretty cool. Of course they also unload the suspension for brake/suspension work. As I said they are limited for true under the car work like removing a gearbox for example.

DSC03252.JPG

DSC03254.JPG
 
The minimum footing requirements for a single post lift are 4" concrete, 3000PSI Compression, with rebar or mesh.

I just poured a new floor because my old one was garbage. It was 2-4" thick with no rebar or anything else and it was cracked. The new floor is 6" 3000PSI with rebar.
 
mikeyr: Is that your garage? With Race-deck flooring? If so, how do you like it? How well does stuff roll accross it (specifically: a car on dollies)?
 
yes, that is my mess !

I have not tried a car on dollies, but the 4-post on the casters rolled just fine, a bit hard to get started but fine after the initial "push".

Engine stands, tool chest, etc. are the same, it can be a little hard to start it moving but once moving it rolls nicely, best part is it stays put when you stop pushing. My small castered floor jack is the hardest to move when the car is on it but even that once you get it moving is fine.

The floor itself I like very much, the only real problem I have had with it is weld splatter melting holes in it. I have to be careful when welding the mig splatter really hurt the flooring, I had to get a welding blanket to lay down first. A inconvinience but a minor one since I don't weld that often, the majority of the time I just move what I am welding on into the driveway.

Fluids, solvents, etc. have not harmed it at all.

I wish I had the space to remove a section of tile to dedicate to welding but I don't and I like the tile way too much to remove it completely.
 
I'm considering re-flooring my shop (because I need that 3000 psi/4" thick concrete for my new 2 post lift). Interesting to see about the flooring. I've also seen epoxy coatings. Anyone have any thoughts on that?
 
Did epoxy in our commercial shops and it worked out great. Easy to clean, if it does get a sharp impact it's not much bother to blob a bit more on to "patch" it. It looked as nice five years down the trail as it did the day after we did it as well. Prep was the reason it lasted as long as it did, I'm sure. New concrete should be a dream to finish off with it too.

My tuppence.
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif

Yep. I've done extensive research on flooring and for epoxy, prep is EVERYTHING. When it's a new floor, you can build it with epoxy in mind with the proper moisture barrier. I'd look into radiant heat as well if climate warrants it.

The lack of a moisture barrier seems to be the killer when looking at epoxy for an existing floor. In our garage, the floor weeps quite a bit during humid months. The tell-tale sign being white dust in concentrated areas. If this is the case, epoxy will likely fail. Griot's site has an excellent page describing the prep required and other issues.

Race-deck flooring seems like a good alternative.
 
Epoxy is my choise as well, but not the kind you get at Home Depot and other fine hardware retailling establishments. The stuff on my floor is the kind of stuff you find on aircraft hanger floors and it's hard as nails! You can drag equipment across it and not tear the floor apart like the cheap stuff. It is also impervious to brake fluid, oil, solvent, etc. I have yet to find anything that affects the finish.

But it ain't cheap like the cheap stuff either. The paint alone was a few hundred dollars to do my little 400 sq ft garage. The added cost is worth it to me since I won't have to tear everything out of the garage in a coulpe years to redo it.

I hired a service to put my floor down specifically because they offer a 5-year warranty against anything happening - peeling, chipping, etc. It sounded good in theory, but the **** place screwed it u pso bad we almost got into a legal battle. They didn't even prep the floor first! It was a new pour (6 months) but had plaster lumps and such that they painted right over. I was ****! After threee repairs they finally did it well enough that I paid them. I'm kinda wishing I had done it myself at this point. If you need a flooring service in So Cal, ask me who NOT to use!

But the final product sure is nice...

DSCN2664b.jpg
 
Any suggestions for epoxy paint sources?

We are building a new garage, and I would like to paint the floor with epoxy paint.

I have seen Griot's paint; I would be surprised if they formulated it themselves? (Just seems like a big task.) I have also seen the paint (sherwin-williams???) at home depot.

Any suggestions for the best? If it lasts ten years longer because it is done right, money becomes somewhat secondary.
 
Thanks for the info and pictures. I ordered a Kwiklift today. I had a nice conversation with Danny Johnson, owner of the comany. He is mostly into rods and has placed most of ads his in those mags (I saw his product in Street Rodder). Seems some years ago he managed to drop a car on himself off of jackstands and spent some time in the hospital. I ordered two bridges also. The bridges will accomodate my Gemini S/R, TR4, Lancia and Honda Pisspot. I can put my pickup on the lift but will unable to jack it up to remove the tires. This has got to be better than floor jacks and stands. Oh yea, I painted my shop floor and many other things and soon the Kwiklift (you can buy in in the raw) with Poxy Coat by International Coatings. The salesperson had big brains, so my ex business partner bought many gallons from her years ago. How about safety yellow and gray.
 
I was going to go epoxy, I ended up with the racedeck because I could add some color and patterns easier than paint. I like that I could go all white under the lift to help reflect paint.

But the biggest thing is its nice to lay down on your back and not have it freeze ! the tiles are warm to the touch, I can work without getting cold feet, before the lift lay on the ground and not get cold. Wife even likes it when she does the laundry she can go out there in her bare feet. Its a comfort I was not at all expecting. Epoxy sure would be nice in one section where I could weld without worrying about splatter though (maybe the next garage will be big enough)
 
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