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I am planning to install a Pertronix system in my positive earth BJ8. Presently the CB side of the coil has a black/white wire that is grounded to the distributer, and a black/white wire that exits into the wire loom. On the SW side there is a white wire that exits into the wire loom. The Pertronix unit comes with a black and red wire. What is the proper configuration for attachment of the various wires?
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Installing a Pertronix system in BJ
- Thread starter drdave
- Start date
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Hi Team:
Just following on the Pertronix installation question. The intructions indicate that the positive side of the coil be grounded to the frame. The original terminal and wire was contected to the points. Can someone suggest a neat somewhat official place where I should ground the positive side of the coil using 20-gauge wire?
I am thinking of looping it under and attaching it to the coil mounting bracket. Is there somewhere that makes it look more appropriate?
Also on a new Lucas sport 40K coil, should I increase the sparkplug gap more than specs. What gap is beneficial, appropriate and why?
- Andrew -
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/canpatriot.GIF
[ QUOTE ]
I am planning to install a Pertronix system in my positive earth BJ8. Presently the CB side of the coil has a black/white wire that is grounded to the distributer, and a black/white wire that exits into the wire loom. On the SW side there is a white wire that exits into the wire loom. The Pertronix unit comes with a black and red wire. What is the proper configuration for attachment of the various wires?
[/ QUOTE ]
Just following on the Pertronix installation question. The intructions indicate that the positive side of the coil be grounded to the frame. The original terminal and wire was contected to the points. Can someone suggest a neat somewhat official place where I should ground the positive side of the coil using 20-gauge wire?
I am thinking of looping it under and attaching it to the coil mounting bracket. Is there somewhere that makes it look more appropriate?
Also on a new Lucas sport 40K coil, should I increase the sparkplug gap more than specs. What gap is beneficial, appropriate and why?
- Andrew -
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/canpatriot.GIF
[ QUOTE ]
I am planning to install a Pertronix system in my positive earth BJ8. Presently the CB side of the coil has a black/white wire that is grounded to the distributer, and a black/white wire that exits into the wire loom. On the SW side there is a white wire that exits into the wire loom. The Pertronix unit comes with a black and red wire. What is the proper configuration for attachment of the various wires?
[/ QUOTE ]
Keoke
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Hi Andrew, Just find a proper sized ring connector that fit the coil mounting screws,then solder a short wire between it and the specified connector to the coil. Just keep it relatively short and neatly dressed. The plug gap can be opened up to 0.035" using the Sport coil.--Keoke
Johnny
Darth Vader
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
I am planning to install a Pertronix system in my positive earth BJ8. "The Pertronix unit comes with a black and red wire". What is the proper configuration for attachment of the various wires?
[/ QUOTE ]
Good day "drdave" I just bought a Pertronix unit to install in my BJ7. It is a positive grounded car, the part # on the box is LU-162AP12. The two wires exiting from the unit are black, one has a white tracer. On the instruction sheet it says this is for a positive ground system. However, placed on the box is a white label stating this is a "LU 162AP12 222-560 PETRONIX AH 3000 NEGATIVE GROUND"?? Inside is a plastic bag with "LU-16S P12" written on it. Maybe someone could enlighten me as to which one I actually have bought. I'm afraid to install it without knowing for sure.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
I am planning to install a Pertronix system in my positive earth BJ8. "The Pertronix unit comes with a black and red wire". What is the proper configuration for attachment of the various wires?
[/ QUOTE ]
Good day "drdave" I just bought a Pertronix unit to install in my BJ7. It is a positive grounded car, the part # on the box is LU-162AP12. The two wires exiting from the unit are black, one has a white tracer. On the instruction sheet it says this is for a positive ground system. However, placed on the box is a white label stating this is a "LU 162AP12 222-560 PETRONIX AH 3000 NEGATIVE GROUND"?? Inside is a plastic bag with "LU-16S P12" written on it. Maybe someone could enlighten me as to which one I actually have bought. I'm afraid to install it without knowing for sure.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
Offline
I'm not sure how the labeling gets mixed up, but it does.
Positive ground units have a black wire & a black with white wire.
Negative ground units have a black wire & a red wire.
Moss catalog shows 222-560 for a positive ground which also agrees with with the wire colors you have.
Make sure that the magnet ring seats completely down on the shaft. If not, it will hold the rotor up high enough for it to strike the cap contacts.
Keoke gives good advice on the wiring & plug gap.
D
Positive ground units have a black wire & a black with white wire.
Negative ground units have a black wire & a red wire.
Moss catalog shows 222-560 for a positive ground which also agrees with with the wire colors you have.
Make sure that the magnet ring seats completely down on the shaft. If not, it will hold the rotor up high enough for it to strike the cap contacts.
Keoke gives good advice on the wiring & plug gap.
D
Keoke
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Hi Johnny, The "P" after the LU162A indicates that the unit is for a positive ground installation. The "P" does not appear on the negative ground component. However, because Moss never seems to know whats in their boxes send them an Email and get it cleared up!---Fwiw---Keoke
Velox
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
Make sure that the magnet ring seats completely down on the shaft. If not, it will hold the rotor up high enough for it to strike the cap contacts.
[/ QUOTE ]
On my BJ8 negative ground installation just completed I have my magnet ring completely seated on the shaft but still the rotor is up just enough to be felt as a firm resistance trying to fully place the cap. This was present with new and old rotors and new/old caps. Finally I carefully flat sanded the base of the rotor until just enough was removed to fully seat the cap without resistance (could feel the spring tension of the coil wire button). Is this the correct way to compensate for the magnet ring keeping the rotor up, or am I missing something? I am sure the ring is fully seated as the small plastic lip at the top of the ring is tight against the top of the dist'r shaft. Thanks for any info on how this should be done.
Make sure that the magnet ring seats completely down on the shaft. If not, it will hold the rotor up high enough for it to strike the cap contacts.
[/ QUOTE ]
On my BJ8 negative ground installation just completed I have my magnet ring completely seated on the shaft but still the rotor is up just enough to be felt as a firm resistance trying to fully place the cap. This was present with new and old rotors and new/old caps. Finally I carefully flat sanded the base of the rotor until just enough was removed to fully seat the cap without resistance (could feel the spring tension of the coil wire button). Is this the correct way to compensate for the magnet ring keeping the rotor up, or am I missing something? I am sure the ring is fully seated as the small plastic lip at the top of the ring is tight against the top of the dist'r shaft. Thanks for any info on how this should be done.
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Make sure that the magnet ring seats completely down on the shaft. If not, it will hold the rotor up high enough for it to strike the cap contacts.
[/ QUOTE ]
On my BJ8 negative ground installation just completed I have my magnet ring completely seated on the shaft but still the rotor is up just enough to be felt as a firm resistance trying to fully place the cap. This was present with new and old rotors and new/old caps. Finally I carefully flat sanded the base of the rotor until just enough was removed to fully seat the cap without resistance
[/ QUOTE ]
I guess sanding the base will work. The problem is that different brands of rotors have different installed heights. For example - a new Moss - Lucas rotor has the top of the rotor tip .306" above the top of the distributor shaft. An older unbranded rotor has the top of the rotor tip .288" above the top of the shaft.
The older rotor which is about 40 years old, & still going strong, has a flat spring embedded into it's side opposite to the locating notch which keeps the rotor tight on the shaft. The Moss - Lucas rotor does not have this spring. See attached pic of the old "good" rotor.
D
[ QUOTE ]
Make sure that the magnet ring seats completely down on the shaft. If not, it will hold the rotor up high enough for it to strike the cap contacts.
[/ QUOTE ]
On my BJ8 negative ground installation just completed I have my magnet ring completely seated on the shaft but still the rotor is up just enough to be felt as a firm resistance trying to fully place the cap. This was present with new and old rotors and new/old caps. Finally I carefully flat sanded the base of the rotor until just enough was removed to fully seat the cap without resistance
[/ QUOTE ]
I guess sanding the base will work. The problem is that different brands of rotors have different installed heights. For example - a new Moss - Lucas rotor has the top of the rotor tip .306" above the top of the distributor shaft. An older unbranded rotor has the top of the rotor tip .288" above the top of the shaft.
The older rotor which is about 40 years old, & still going strong, has a flat spring embedded into it's side opposite to the locating notch which keeps the rotor tight on the shaft. The Moss - Lucas rotor does not have this spring. See attached pic of the old "good" rotor.
D
