Inside the frame rails

[dvu101]

I took off the tips of the BT7 frame where the sway bar attached to fix the captured nuts the bar bolts into.
Looking inside the frame i see everything is coated in rust, not really surprised.
is there any product i can put inside the frame rails to convert or slow the rust?
and haw do i get it inside?

Thanks, Scott

 

[Superwrench]

Scott Get some Eastwood Anti Rust in Aerosol cans. They come with a extension nozzle that sprays in a fan. I coated the inside of all of my frame and new rockers. It is a cosmoline type waxy material. There are enough drill holes in your fram that you can get most of it. It will slow down the rust. Nothing will totally eliminate it. Good luck

 

[Bob_Spidell]

I bought an undercoating rig from JC Whitney, and sprayed LP3 inside. I know it protects bare metal, can say for certain what is does on already rusted areas.

 

[bob hughes]

If you believe it, isn't this a case for one of the Dinatrol products?
I have opened up the top of my chassis in the cockpit area, where the top had rusted through, and found half of California lurking in what proved to be a very dry and relatively rust free area. ( the car had been returned to the motherland), although I did not spray anything in there, I loosened all the crud and vacuumed it out before sealing up the top with real metal. I do intend to spray something inside in the very near future, and it would appear that Dinatrol holds sway over Waxoyl.



Bob

 

[healeyblue]

use the eastwood internal frame coating. I hear it is good.

https://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html

Of course the best way is a dip like we did for our BN4. Its a process called e-coating and it is a dip tank/electrolosis type coating. It gets in all internal crevices, no matter how small as long as it has a way in.

 

[Johnny]

I was told by an old airplane restorer that what they use on planes is "Boiled Linseed Oil". It's cheap, you can buy it by the gallon and it's a liquid that can be just poured on. I used it on my fram after testing on an old shovel that I had. I first just cleaned off the dirt and rust (on the shovel) and poured on the boiled linseed oil and let it dry. It dries to a hard shiny film. I set it outside all summer and fall in the rain sun etc. it still looks great. After opening up the frame as you did I poured/sprayed through a make shift hose sprayer and it sealed everything up. Downside is it "stinks" but eventually will dry and not smell bad anymore.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Linseed oil is usually used inside the tubes of tube-and-fabric aircraft (not unlike the inside of Healey chassis). External protection, if any, is with zinc chromate paint.

 

[dvu101]

Thanks guys. I think I will call Eastwood and see what they can do for me.

 

[TravisTowle]

Be. Very careful with the linseed oil. It will combust 100% of the time and will burn a house down in a flash...


Travis
topeka kansas

 

[Rob Glasgow]

Combust 100% of the time.....that's not been my experience. But then, I've only used it a dozen or so times. Maybe your results are different that mine.

 

[57_BN4]

I remember this when I was a kid because dad made things out of wood and would instruct buyers on the dangers of linseed oil. I always though it would be a brilliant way to burn down the school...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EreqG0_PLQ

 

[vette]

Hi Scot, Back in the day when I had a full time career, I did Utility work all around Pa. The yards I worked in had a variety of outdoor equipment. All subject to rust. It was a common practice to have the metal scraped down and then coat it with a product called "Extend". Seems to me it was a Permatex product. It is a rust converter. It not only encapslizes the rust but chemically changes it, and forms a hard outer surface that can be painted. I sprayed it into the frame of my Healey with a 360* tip on a wand sprayer. Where I had new metal such as my outriggers and rockers i sprayed them with Epoxy primer/sealer. Dave.

 

[RAC68]

I think I mentioned this in another thread but an who was well versed and bought and sold classics for years, would sometimes restore some very expensive cars before their sale to some European buyers. One day I went over to his place and found him mixing tar and coal oil together. After he was finished mixing, he went over to an original Healey 100M without its interior and proceeded to pore the mix into holes he had drilled at strategic locations in the frame. After filling all frame sections with the mix, he plugged the holes and, on a couple of cushions, drove the car around the building a couple of times. When he returned, he took a few plugs from out of the bottom of the frame and drained the liquid out. He indicated that he would let the car air out for a week and then replaced them. He indicated that this process would stop the rust and the frame would last 100 years.

I often thought of doing this but, somehow never got around to it.

Ray (64BJ8P1)

 

[vette]

I was going to mention in my previous post but forgot, over the years I have restored a few cars in which I have done all the metal work and painted them. Two cars that I will never forget were MGbs. I think the MGB is one of the toughest and best engineered bodies of all the LBCs. But of course given the years, I would get them when the bodies were completely ravished with rust. On each of these Bs when I cut them apart to replace metal I found that they had been extensively treated with what I am sure was Waxol or a very similar product. Of course the vertical surfaces were well coated with the stuff, but it was the seams and the lower portions of the metal that usually were completely gone. And in these areas there was no sign of the waxol. It just doesn't flow enough to get into the seams. Or to flow around enough to get anywhere but where it was directly applied. I wouldn't have the stuff or anything that is thick. If you take straight enamel paint, whether arylic enamel or older stuff and you poor it unto any clean surface is will stick and coat and seal and stay somewhat flexible. Therefore I have used it as normal practice to spray or pour regular automotive enamel paint into any seam or unto any inner surface that I can get it on. There is one other application that I use instead of enamel since I have been spraying base/clear coat finishes.
Since base paint is caustic similar to lacquers it will eat or lift enamels. Therefore you do not want any enamel, especially fresh enamel, on an outer edge if you are going to spray base colour there. So in those cases instead of using enamel, I have been using Epoxy primer/sealer. It is emensely durable without having a top coat applied over it. And it flows everywhere. And it is a very suitable subtrait under base colours. Dave.

 

[AN5Sprite]

Hey fellas, I've never participated in the Healey section before so please excuse my intrusion...I'm here to clear up the good name of my good friend, Linseed Oil. I have, what could be called, an above average amount of experience with linseed oil since I make violin varnish from scratch. For starters, that news clip is all about fear and not about information. I'd Disregard it completely. The real danger has nothing to do with the oil and EVERYTHING to do with the heavy metal driers that are used to jump-start polymerization (drying). Manganese and Cobalt, among others, are two common driers found in the product known as "Boiled Linseed Oil" (It's not actually boiled, it's chemistry) Rags soaked with "boiled" oil AND crumpled up can, through exothermic reaction, spontaneously combust. Thats a fact. It's also the source of every fire associated with linseed oil (or Tung Oil). Linseed oil without an added drier (often sold as Raw Linseed Oil) won't behave the same way and will only dry in a thin layer IF it's exposed to strong UV rays. (not great for much of anything) Neither of them are reliable drying oils without strong UV light. If there is enough heavy metal drier added to linseed oil that it will dry, inside of a frame rail, absent light, then any rag that has come in contact with that oil should be considered very dangerous and laid flat, outside of your home to dry, or submerged in a glass jar filled with water and sealed to prevent spontaneous combustion. Again: 1. it's not the oil itself, 2. there are different versions available, so know which one you have, 3. it's the stuff added to the oil to make it dry faster that's the problem. To further illustrate the differences; Raw, cold-pressed, food-grade linseed oil (sold as Flax oil) can be ingested to lower your cholesterol and make your salad taste good. "Boiled" linseed oil, loaded with Cobalt from the hardware store could burn up your rag pile and give you cancer... It's all in the additives.