Initial startup after 22 years

[robert_ellison]

My BJ-7 has not been started for 22 years. When I began this project I had the engine completely rebuilt but have never even turned it over. I occasionally have taken off the valve cover and poured oil over all surfaces and down into the openings. I have also, occasionally, removed the spark plugs and squirted oil into the cylinders.

What would be the most advisable method of preparing for and initially starting this car? I read somewhere about making sure the cam lobes are lubricated, as well as a method whereby a pressure tank is connected to the oil gauge inlet and pressurized to 30 pounds to create oil pressure (although there was no more info available). Neither of these procedures I'm aware of how to do.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

 

[glemon]

It sounds like you have kept it lubricated and done the right things, I found specialty cam lube to be hard to find at the chain parts stores, but did get some from a machine shop. Everything I have read says you should smear this stuff liberally on the cam lobes and lifters, with the engine already together the easiest thing would probably be to pull the lifters out and smear a healthy smear on the bottom of each.

You can (and should in my opinion) spin the motor on the starter with the plugs out to circulate the oil and make sure it builds up pressure.

 

[roscoe]

I agree with glemon, and will add that depending on the ambient temperature (I'll bet it is chilly in Iowa about now), you can heat the oil in a big pot, just to reduce the viscosity a bit and make it easier for the pump to move larger amounts at the very start, and pour it in just before you crank. After all I've read about ZDDP (the zinc phosphate additive that is no longer in most motor oils)it is probably a good idea to put 10 bucks worth in the oil, especially during break-in. Be resolute about getting some oil pressure on the gage by cranking before you fire it up. Oil pumps are sometimes hard to get primed. If you don't see oil pressure after 20 to 30 seconds of cranking read the various threads about how to prime the pump.

 

[Healey 100]

If the engine was rebuilt by a reputable shop, it should have had lubriplate or other suitable overhaul greases put on all the bearing and cam surfaces. Since the car was parked indoors all this time, I can see no reason for those greases to deteriorate.

I would drain the oil if there is any and refill. I always install a new filter and pre-fill it.

Remove the plugs and crank the engine with the fuel pump off to see if she generates oil pressure. I won't start a new engine until I confirm it is circulating oil properly. Cranking with the plugs out will reduce the bearing loads during that period before the oil lines are full and pressurized.

You need to set the distributor and get the ignition working and approximately timed. Start with new points and plugs. Double check that the plug wires are installed to the proper cylinders, this is a common error that will keep you from starting.

Carburetors that sit for years usually need cleaning, but if the throttles are free and the bowl needle and seats are not frozen and hold fuel pressure, you're probably OK with SU's. Your gas tank has sat for 20 years, the gas is certainly bad. I usually run an engine initially off of a gas can with new gas in it -- you will need to jury rig a fuel pickup from your gas can to the fuel line to do this. Finally, add coolant and fix any obvious coolant leaks.

When (if) it starts, I usually let them keep running at a brisk idle (say 1500 RPM) for 20 minutes or so, watching the oil pressure, temperature, listening for odd sounds, and looking for leaks. When it cools off, retorque the cylinder head and manifold bolts. Once the engine runs OK, attend to the problem of cleaning and refreshing the gas tank.

This process usually has fits and starts, various problems occur on the way that will divert you. Still, it's a thrill when an engine silent for 20 years or more fires up.

Good luck and good Healeying!

Bill S
Albuquerque

 

[wheelwright]

Here is a tip for you ,we use Joe Gibbs BR racing oil for new motors to make break in easier,it has the additives oils used to have.The oil you have put into the cylinders will probably smoke a lot when you start up, it's ok.Spinning the motor w/the plugs out is a good idea,don't do it too long,though,it can damage bearing surfaces{lack of oil pressure}.You didn't say how long ago the carbs were rebuilt,the plastic diaphrams could be split or be stuck ,worth a look before the BIG DAY!If you have the Gross jets,you may want to replace them w/stock ones,the Gross jets are famous for failure. Also check out fuel lines and fittings for safety.It is possible to install the distributor drive backwards,check yours before starting,you can move the wires if needed.You will need to retorque the head a few times during the first 500 miles,due to stretching inherent in the head bolts and fasteners,check oil filter for metal debris,fuel filter for trash in gas tank.I always check the whole motor for loose nuts and bolts during the first few thousand miles,it's surprising how much things can loosen up.Also,the suspension needs to be checked,shock bolts and steering mounts too.Expect to need to clean your plugs a few times,it is likely they will foul until you get everything tuned.Use hi test gas,it runs cleaner,don't use any additives like octane booster.It's a good idea to have a good battery,you will be using a lot of power starting up,and probably not charging back up very much,a battery charger will help out.I would check belt tension to the generator,it should be a bit loose,if you have an alternator,the belt can be a little snugger.Check your choke cable and carbs for proper adjustment,throttles for range of motion.Good luck w/ your project!!

 

[Michael Oritt]

While I have never had a problem getting an oil pump to prime it does not hurt to detach the OP guage line and push some lube oil back through the engine using an old-fashioned oil squirt gun.

 

[GregW]

Maybe I'm overly cautious, I think 22 years is too long. While you have been adding oil to the cylinders, the oil is only working on the cylinder from the rings down. So a piston at BDC isn't oiling much of that cylinder. The solid lifters are keeping a couple valves open to the atmosphere, so some moisture is getting in. The valve faces in the head may have rust on them. Water pump should be checked to make sure it isn't seized, hand turning would work. You may find some gaskets have dried out. I agree with Greg Lemon about pulling the tappets to lube the cam again. If it was my car, I'd pull the head for inspection as a minimum.

 

[anthony7777]

grgw, this is all great advice, i would add not doing a first start up inside a garage and have a fire extinguisher handy.

 

[robert_ellison]

thanks for the replies.

re the suggestion about pulling the head. What should I look for?

In the event there is rust, etc., is it necessary to go to a shop for solution or things I can do myself?

Should I avoid any turnover (without starting), until above suggestions are completed?

When replacing the head is it necessary to install a new head gasket?

Also, re the suggestion to pump oil back through the pressure gauge line, does this send oil to the pump or what function will it serve. Should I pump as much as it will take, or how much?

 

[roscoe]

Nobody here has given anything but good advice. That being said, here are my thoughts (maybe some will think this is the first bad advice!). If you never put coolant into the engine and the head was assembled correctly, there might not be any problem with the mating surfaces. When you run it the gasket will either seal or it won't. If it doesn't, you have only a little additional work to do to fix it over what you would have done had you pulled it first. I had all of my machine work done and then assembled the engine myself. I took a tip from the Nock's at BCS and used a cooling system sealer (I used Irontite T610)when I ran the engine for the first time. I have not had any sort of head gasket problems. Some may gasp in horror, but you know, someone will always gasp no matter what you do. It made sense to me. I also took their advice and did not retorque the head studs (gasp again!)after installing the head per their suggestions. It sounds like pulling the head is not a walk in the park for you so think about the route I took. Should there be a problem then you have reason to learn as you go along to fix it. If you can find someone who has a borescope, you can get a really good look inside the cylinders, and this includes the part of the head that makes the combustion chamber, without pulling the head, and see if there is any corrosion. You can do that by just pulling the spark plugs and looking with the scope. This all presumes the engine was assembled by someone who knew what they were doing. Is the rebuilder still around? If they are, ask their advice. When I tore down my engine it had been sitting in the po's garage for 27 years. Sure I had the block and the head resurfaced, but it didn't look too bad before and this engine had been run and then drained of oil and just sat. You may have other problems associated with other parts of the engine that relate to it not being run for so long. Put oil in the engine, spin it up with no spark plugs, get oil pressure, then do a cold compression test. If you have good compression when cold you may not have any cylinder problems. Any corrosion under the valve cover? Don't forget this is all based on my understanding that the rebuilt engine has never been run. Let us know what you decide. On the other hand, pulling the head, although not a common roadside repair, is not a huge deal. Lots of folks around to tell you what to do if you go that route.

 

[Randy Forbes]

Roscoe, good suggestion on the borescope; I had thought of that, but didn't think it was a popular enough tool to mention it.

Not sure everybody is as tool-crazy as I am...

:wink:

 

[Randy Forbes]

Robert:

I don't think I agree with the suggestions of taking compression readings.

If you do in fact have fresh (reground) cam and/or lifters in that engine, they won't take politely to being spun over repeatedly.

That means having the ignition and carburation ready to fly on the first crank.

Initial start up of any rebuilt engine is to get it fired as quickly as possible, with the fewest number of revolutions. Quickly establish that you have oil pressure, and then hold the RPMs at between 2000-2200 for about fifteen (15) minutes.

 

[roscoe]

Randy, you ARE the toolmeister!

 

[66healey]

If your really worried about something being stuck or rusted when you turn it over, maybe you should pull the plugs and turn it over a few revolutions by hand first. You will be able to tell if anything is stuck this way with out doing any damage. If it turn fairly easily with a ratchet on the crank and the plugs pulled chances are your ok. Also if you have been squirting oil down the plug holes all these years and its not coming out of the plug holes, it must be slowly getting past the rings. The rings remove all the oil from the cylinder walls otherwise they would score them. If it was my engine, and it turns ok by hand, I wouldn't pull the head.

 

[GregW]

I could get on board with a bore scope, good call. It may be possible to rent one or maybe one of those free loaner programs that places like Autozone have.

 

[robert_ellison]

thanks for the reply.

As I asked. If there is corrosion can I clean it up or is it necessary to have a shop do the work?

Re the question about squirting oil into the oil pressure gauge fitting will this prime the pump- how much oil should I add in this manner?

 

[Randy Forbes]

thanks for the reply.

As I asked. If there is corrosion can I clean it up or is it necessary to have a shop do the work?

Re the question about squirting oil into the oil pressure gauge fitting will this prime the pump- how much oil should I add in this manner?

First (1st) question answered in other thread.

As much oil as will fit. Another alternative would be to pump oil into the feed for the rockershaft (don't know that I would take the trouble) but be very careful to not damage the threads where the fitting attaches to the rocker pedastal.

 

[Healey 100]

Yee Gawd, relax and crank it up!

Some of the diagnostic measures suggested here are expensive, hard work, and not clear what you would do with the information.

Definitely leave the head on, removing the head on a six is lots of work and if the head gasket leaks or the valve seats are rusted you'll find out when you run it and can fix that later. Chances are they will be just fine and you can leave that head on for years.

Turn it over slowly with the plugs out to see if everything is free. You can easily check for stuck valves first so you don't snap a rocker arm. Once you can see it has oil pressure, holds water, and makes reasonably timed sparks, get it running and then you'll know what to do next. If the engine has big problems, you'll hear or see it.

If the engine is going to crater or be severely damaged on starting (very unlikely, but anything is possible) I doubt if you'll figure that out by looking in the cylinder with a boroscope or removing the head. If you're really worried about it, you should dismantle the engine, check and lube all the clearances and reassemble.

If the original rebuilder has any credibility at all, I suggest you go ahead and get it running.

 

[PAUL161]

I know that this pickling kit is for aircraft engines, but to store a rebuilt engine for a long period of time, it's well worth the 180 bucks for a four cyl engine. $ 270.00 for a 6 cyl. Can be used on any reciprocating engine. Manufactured by, Tanis Aircraft Products and sold by, Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co. It's well worth the money.

 

[chicken]

Robert

May i ask what oil you have put in, is it running in oil, have you added any of the ZDDPlus additive as yet ?
The reason being that i have just re-built my engine (over 2years) and put the reccomended oil in that the engine shop supply but there was no mention of this zddplus.
After i tinkered with the timing and distributer etc and got i spark i made sure everything else was in order before i was ready to fire up the old girl, quite exiting and frightening at the same time as you have no idea what will happen or damage that may get done if something is wrong.
So i think i understand where you are coming from,run it up and see what happens if something is wrong then you may have to go back to basics but i don't see you've got anything to loose.

Rob