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Inherited 59 Bugeye need help.

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PanP

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Hello All,
I inherited this 59 from my brother who passed away 7 years ago, I am just now getting around to driving it. He had just completed the restoration before he died and subsequently there are numerous bugs that have not been worked out. I have restored many muscle cars over the years, but, have no experience with English. I have fallen in love with this gem and would like to keep it a daily driver. I intend to keep it in the family and give it to my son one day.
I found your forum and have already learned a ton of info, but the problem I am having is with the front suspension. While it is very responsive when driven, there is a creaking and general lose (not felt) "sound" from the front suspension. I found the first source of noise coming from the lever shocks. When I actually loosened the attachment bolts a bit the noise went away? any thoughts? Also, I checked the top nut on the kingpin and it was very loose, when I tightened it the axles would not swivel. I know my brother had reconditioned or replaced everything on the car (7yrs ago), but, if the kingpins are new, am I not supposed to be able to tighten the top nut at least 45lbs without binding.
Can anyone recommend where to get parts for the suspension?
Thanks Much for any info.

IMG_4298B.jpgIMG_4296B.jpgIMG_4299B.jpg
p.s. A piece of cork fell off under the a-arm, what was that from or intended to do? I have to admit, that is the first time I have ever seen cork used in a suspension.
 
Wow, nice car! Gerard is in SF he may recognize the car. It seems to be familiar. Does it have poly bushings in the front suspension? That might be where the "sound" is coming from. The cork washer is from the fulcrum pin and serves to keep the grease in. Moss Motors would be a good place to start for parts. They have a very good web site and the catalog is very helpful ( plus they are a sponsor). The Dixon show is in May a good place to network.
Paul
 
Thanks Paul. I believe you mean Gerald, he's my father, he has been storing the car for the last 7 years. I have just finally got around to giving it the attention it needs. My brother was from the Sac area maybe you knew him David Penn?
I can't tell if they are poly, I don't see any red, unless they offered them in black also.
 
Have you tried to grease anything yet? I would find it very hard to think that if your Dad is who I think he is and your brother went through the car that it would need anything given it's current condition.
 
Have you tried to grease anything yet? I would find it very hard to think that if your Dad is who I think he is and your brother went through the car that it would need anything given it's current condition. They do have poly in black. Mine is squeaky/clunky and I hate it. The stock stuff is made outta black marsh mellows though...
 
Sounds like the trunnions need a few extra shims under them. The the nut on top can be tightened and the swivel axles still function properly.
 
kellysguy said:
Have you tried to grease anything yet? I would find it very hard to think that if your Dad is who I think he is and your brother went through the car that it would need anything given it's current condition. They do have poly in black. Mine is squeaky/clunky and I hate it. The stock stuff is made outta black marsh mellows though...
Click to expand...

I greased all the fitings, assuming the arm is poly is there any way to get some lube in there?
Also, The shocks were making this horrid cracking sound, although the levers were working really well. I loosened the mounting bolts and the sound went away. Is there some slack in the mounting position that allows camber adjustment and maybe they were just bound up. I would hate to think I just lost my camber angle by loosing the mounting bolts.
 
PanP, I suggest you get a copy of the workshop manual since it has details such as how to reassemble and adjust the kingpin and trunnion. The shims are .008 in and .012 in. Here is an excerpt: "put an .008 in shim and .012 in shim onto the swivel pin, followed by the trunnion with its bore towards the hub when it is fitted. Tighten the castellated nut. Resistance should be just felt when the swivel axle is moved from lock to lock and there should be no vertical movement of the swivel axle. Increase thickness of the shims to loosen and remove to tighten, depending upon whether there is too much or too little thrust."
 
CLEAH said:
PanP, I suggest you get a copy of the workshop manual since it has details such as how to reassemble and adjust the kingpin and trunnion. The shims are .008 in and .012 in. Here is an excerpt: "put an .008 in shim and .012 in shim onto the swivel pin, followed by the trunnion with its bore towards the hub when it is fitted. Tighten the castellated nut. Resistance should be just felt when the swivel axle is moved from lock to lock and there should be no vertical movement of the swivel axle. Increase thickness of the shims to loosen and remove to tighten, depending upon whether there is too much or too little thrust."
Click to expand...

Thanks CLEAH, So, after shimming I should be able to tighten the top nut considerably, right now it is almost hand tight, should not be driven until corrected? (obviously not hand tight since its a nyloc nut, but inch torqued at best)
 
Welcome aboard...and what a beautiful car! Like you, I had no experience with British sports cars when I took the plunge eight months ago. This forum has been an absolutely invaluable resource. That, and it's got some really great people, too.
 
PanP said:
Thanks CLEAH, So, after shimming I should be able to tighten the top nut considerably, right now it is almost hand tight, should not be driven until corrected? (obviously not hand tight since its a nyloc nut, but inch torqued at best)
Click to expand...

The upper trunnion should be torqued down tight and with the right number of shims under it, the upright should turn easily, but without any slop. It's kind of like the front wheel bearings, if they're stock. It uses ball bearings and a 'precision machined' spacer in the middle and you torque'em down to something like 60 ft-lbs. I'll have to look at mine, but it looked odd to see the threaded top of the kingpin without a castellated nut on top of it. It looks like your brother did a lot of good work on that car, but it's a shame to have to come to own it that way.

Have a look at the local Austin-Healey Club's website, https://www.GoldenGatehealeys.com and there's going to be a join Alfa/Healey/whatever drive on June 7th out to Pescadero.
 
Welcome to the land of nuts, castellated and otherwise! You really have a beautiful Bugeye and from the looks of it some nice performance upgrades. The newer replacement kingpins come with nylock nuts instead of the original castellated ones and once you remove the nut to add shims you can see if there is a hole in the threaded part. This may be an indication that the kingpins were replaced during a front suspension rebuild and from the looks of the car my bet is that they were. Whatever you find report back with more pictures and there will be someone who can help. In fact, take lots of pictures and let us see more of that beautiful Bugeye!
Rut
 
PanP said:
I greased all the fitings, assuming the arm is poly is there any way to get some lube in there?
Also, The shocks were making this horrid cracking sound, although the levers were working really well. I loosened the mounting bolts and the sound went away. Is there some slack in the mounting position that allows camber adjustment and maybe they were just bound up. I would hate to think I just lost my camber angle by loosing the mounting bolts.
Click to expand...

Like everyone else has said, welcome and the car is a beauty. From the pictures it looks like your brother did a thorough job and the suspension parts look new with some surface rust over the past seven years. First, unless a camber plate or eccentric upper trunnions have been fitted, the stock bugeye has no adjustment for camber. You do not want to loosen the shock absorber mounting bolts to try to alleviate the clicking noise. Driving the car like that win the shock body will either elongate the mounting holes or booger the threads in the shock mount. I think what I'd do first is remove the shock and bench test it to see if the arms move smoothly and the clicking remains. I'd also check to see if they have sufficient shock oil. If the noice remains, it's time for a shock rebuild and forum member Peter Caldwell at https://www.nosimport.com/ is highly recommended
 
PanP said:
Hello All,
I inherited this 59 from my brother who passed away 7 years ago, I am just now getting around to driving it. He had just completed the restoration before he died and subsequently there are numerous bugs that have not been worked out. I have restored many muscle cars over the years, but, have no experience with English. I have fallen in love with this gem and would like to keep it a daily driver. I intend to keep it in the family and give it to my son one day.
I found your forum and have already learned a ton of info, but the problem I am having is with the front suspension. While it is very responsive when driven, there is a creaking and general lose (not felt) "sound" from the front suspension. I found the first source of noise coming from the lever shocks. When I actually loosened the attachment bolts a bit the noise went away? any thoughts? Also, I checked the top nut on the kingpin and it was very loose, when I tightened it the axles would not swivel. I know my brother had reconditioned or replaced everything on the car (7yrs ago), but, if the kingpins are new, am I not supposed to be able to tighten the top nut at least 45lbs without binding.
Can anyone recommend where to get parts for the suspension?
Thanks Much for any info.

View attachment 32708View attachment 32707View attachment 32709
p.s. A piece of cork fell off under the a-arm, what was that from or intended to do? I have to admit, that is the first time I have ever seen cork used in a suspension.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the forum, neighbor... I usually don't like the Bugeye in silver, but the shade used is really nice and I love the burgundy top and interior.

The first thing that occurred to me regarding the binding is that the disc brake conversion may have been done using the drum brake kingpin. The drum brake kingpin is slightly shorter where the shims fit, and could be causing the binding issue. The difference, if I remember correctly is .050"-.100" (or possibly more), so I'm not sure you could get enough shims in there to correct it. Otherwise, if you do have the correct kingpin, then the suggestion of incorrect shim thickness is the likely the issue.

The cork washer is a seal of sorts to separate the grease from the dirt. They usually don't hold up well, and I make new ones from 1/8" rubber sheet. Some people use common hoses washers.

I think Moss will likely be your only domestic source for the shims separately. Victoria British and some others do not list them as separate items.
 
Gerard said:
Welcome to the forum, neighbor... I usually don't like the Bugeye in silver, but the shade used is really nice and I love the burgundy top and interior.

The first thing that occurred to me regarding the binding is that the disc brake conversion may have been done using the drum brake kingpin. The drum brake kingpin is slightly shorter where the shims fit, and could be causing the binding issue. The difference, if I remember correctly is .050"-.100" (or possibly more), so I'm not sure you could get enough shims in there to correct it. Otherwise, if you do have the correct kingpin, then the suggestion of incorrect shim thickness is the likely the issue.

The cork washer is a seal of sorts to separate the grease from the dirt. They usually don't hold up well, and I make new ones from 1/8" rubber sheet. Some people use common hoses washers.

I think Moss will likely be your only domestic source for the shims separately. Victoria British and some others do not list them as separate items.
Click to expand...

Thanks Gerard, sorry to get your name confused in previous post. It would make sense, my brother may have used a drum kingpin, I know he would have at least tried to shim it to spec and maybe just left it for the time being. When I disassemble it I would expect to find some shims in there right?, if that is the case could I rightly assume that the kingpin is a drum unit and would need to be replaced or is there some kind of identification mark or measurement I could use? Thanks for your help
 
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