I'm Stumped [Interior Panels] ......

[George Zeck]

Hi All -

Pretty frustrated at the moment. Trying to recover the interior panels & trim for the Sprite.

Have re-cut new masonite (glorified cardboard) using the old ones as templates. Even used a slightly thicker piece versus the others.

Purchased a 22 gauge air stapler (real light staples vs. normal 18 ga) using the smallest at 1/4" deep staples and they poke through a little bit.

Tried a hand stapler - not enough power to push into the masonite.

Tried glue on some of the trim and the clamps left marks and after 2 days - have not disappeared. Afraid it's a permanent mark - thus having to re-do (again).

Tried local upholstery shops (before all above) and after missed appointments (took off from work to show at a pre-arranged time - no show), too busy to do such a large interior for 3 months, and general untrusting local folks - no reliable folks in my area.

I'm hoping it gets stolen. All while I'm wasting great driving time for my 3 month window in this part of the country.

Any ideas or past experience really would be appreciated at this point.

Tx-

George Zeck

 

[DrEntropy]

The padding I used is the thin closed-cell packing you can get at any "We-Mail-It!" place. The backing is a 3/16 polycarbonate plastic in lieu of the pasteboard OEM stuff. The attachment method was Weldwood Contact Adhesive. On the "back" side where the staples would have gone. NO staples, no "poke-thru" issue. You ~WILL~ need to pre-drill the holes in the plastic, tho.

Avon Lake, huh? GOTL "townie" here.

 

[sqbsprite]

I use 1/8 hardboard that can be bought at Lowes or HD. Brush contact cement on board and foam - allow to set then attach foam to board. Trim the foam to the size of the panel. Use 3M spray contact cement on foam and vinyl. Lay vinyl on foam. After it has set flip panel over and use brush contact cement and fold over edges of vinyl. You will need to make small slices around corners. If applied properly, the contact cement will hold it well. Don't rush it. The cement should be dry to the touch before you put the two pieces together.

Early cars had no padding, but the technique would be the same, just leave out the foam. The Moss panels use 1/8" plywood which seems to work well, but is hard to find. Drill holes in the panels first then you can poke thru the vinyl later. It is a good idea to trial fit the panels to the car first before you cover them.

 

[zimasprite]

I used the masonite but a little thicker foam. I used the 1/4" staples and some marine grade vinyl from an upholstry store. Sometimes the staples wouldn't have enough umph to go into the masonite, but typically did work well. In a few areas, I used a hot glue gun to attach things. I feel like it came out looking pretty good.

- Drew

 

[sqbsprite]

Hot glue would probably work well for the edges on the backside. You just don't want it to be too thick. I think the staples will come out after a while, but I have seen then used on the back side of some panels. Whatever works best is up to the user. Just experiment.

 

[George Zeck]

Just was able to find 5/32" staples for my new upholstery gun. Tested it on a sample piece. All good.

Kinda had my mind set on staples: A) it was what was in there before, B) Think glue would give out much earlier than staples, C) Easier to install (can remove and restaple vs. glue sets quick).

Will keep posted. Still unsure on how to post pic's (size issues) otherwise would like to post my progress. Will figure how to eventually from my ISP.

Thanks all -

George

 

[jlaird]

Glue on mine, contact cement, lasted 48 years.

 

[spritenut]

3M #74 spray glue for the front of the panels and vinyl.
2 coats of FLAMABLE contact cement on the back edge of the vinyl and the back of the panel, coat the whole back twice to weatherproof it. When the cement is try, stick it and it is on for a few decades.